Torsion bar up grade can I wait?

[Zymurgy]

I have been following this thread because of my own interest for Goldie. http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar...Help-chosing-new-Firm-Feel-torsion-bars/page7

I would like to upgrade to a thicker torsion bar, but it is not in the budget. Am I correct in my thinking that I can do the rest of the front end rebuild and come back next winter and change out the torsion bar if I still want a firmer front end, without touching anything else, that I have already rebuilt?

I know it makes since to do it now but, I might be perfectly happy and not touch it.

 

[Catfish]

You'll have to beat on one of your new ball joints if I am figuring everything right.

 

[commando1]

I'll check my FSM.......

 

[commando1]

TORSION BAR REMOVAL
remove upper control arm bumper
raise car
release load on T-bar
remove lock ring
install removal tool, strike hard with hammer, and remove T-bar.

...............

 

[polara66hardtop]

Simply remove all tension from the bar, remove the keeper from the rear cross member, and use that torsion bar removal tool somebody pictured earlier to remove the bar. The bar will slid out the back of the rear cross member. There is plenty of grease still inside, but if you want to add more, do it as the last half of the bar goes in.
Remember to count the turns as you go out on the adjuster, so you can go back to approximately the same adjustment. If you have heavier bars, you may not have to turn the adjuster as far.
Also, when I explained earlier about the Initial adjustment when you first rebuild I need to add that the two fingers between the bumper and body as a rule of thumb, is when the car is sitting on the ground. If you have to adjust the height further, jack the front end up taking the weight of the car off the bar, then adjust the Bolt further, not more than one full turn at a time. It doesn't take much to Impact the height significantly. Your camber/caster may be affected slightly, so drive it and if necessary have the specs checked again. Another tip, not all alignment places are created equal. I found that the main big name places don't know squat about torsion bard font ends. So, I contacted the local hotrod club, as they have a diverse group of modified cars, and used the guy they referred me to. That business was full of old mopar experts, and all for a $85.00 alignment! Regarding the heavier bar topic, my 440TNT Chrysler uses the same bar as any other 440 C body. You will be surprised when you drive the car with a new suspension. I used gas shocks on my Polara, and what a difference that made!

 

[bajajoaquin]

If you have to adjust the height further, jack the front end up taking the weight of the car off the bar, then adjust the Bolt further, not more than one full turn at a time. !

Actually, my FSM says to turn the adjusters with all four wheels level on the ground, then bounce the car up and down a few times to normalize. Your advice seems to be pretty common, though, and I have inadequate personal experience to offer an opinion on which way is superior.

 

[Zymurgy]

Thanks guys one less thing to worry about this year.

 

[Stormer]

Thanks guys one less thing to worry about this year.

Just crank em down 2" for now & see how she rides.

 

[monaco75]

Why go through the trouble of doing the whole front suspension, and leaving the torsion bars out?

I understand the wanting to leave the engine along, but WTH. Take your time on rebuilding the front suspension, and other stuff, and stash a few bucks away, till you can get the new bars.

Hell, would suck to get the car back on the road, and have the motor give out, as well as having one of the bars sag.. lol jk :icon_rolleyes:

 

[polara66hardtop]

They can do that. or break with no notice.

 

[commando1]

Why go through the trouble of doing the whole front suspension, and leaving the torsion bars out?

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
And torsion bars are no big deal later.
Look at all the projects for sale on CL because the owners bit off too much too soon.
Zymurgy has been making great progress.

 

[rexus31]

I'm not sold on needing them. My stock T-bars were fine and the car rides perfect. If they aren't cracked or corroded, I would just run them and use the $$$ you were going to spend on new T-bars toward the motor.

 

[bajajoaquin]

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
And torsion bars are no big deal later.
Look at all the projects for sale on CL because the owners bit off too much too soon.
Zymurgy has been making great progress.

+1 on the advantage of making progress.

 

[monaco75]

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
And torsion bars are no big deal later.
Look at all the projects for sale on CL because the owners bit off too much too soon.
Zymurgy has been making great progress.

$$$ always does make the final decision.. I was just doing a little ball busting. Idk though, I dont like taking things apart twice either..

Zymurgys car has come a long way for sure! My hats off to him! I hope to one day see it in person.

 

[Zymurgy]

Thanks guys for the support, I have definitely decided to nix the new torsion bars. I just placed a bunch of orders today, from suspension to engine.

 

[commando1]

But you shouldn't go by our say so....