Transmission cooler lines

[ImperialLeBaron1969]

My radiator has started leaking and I have to remove it for repair. When I looked under the car I found out that the oil cooler line attachment/fitting looks rusty. Lines are probably OK, but Im not sure I be able to loosen the lines, if afraid they will be twisted. Any advice on how to that?

And are new lines available? Im not sure if the lines on 1969 Imperial are the same as on the Chrysler (newport, 300 and New Yorker) but they could be.

Here are a few pics:

 

[NY69]

Those lines have the same size as standard "gasol" lines. So if you can find a shop where they convert cars to propane, they should be able to make you a replacement line.

 

[413]

Those can come off with finesse. Wire brush front and back of the nuts, and penetrant soak them a few days ahead. Spray it often. Do not use WD-40, it's not very good. Use Deep Creep, Aero Kroil, PB Blaster, etc. you get what you pay for don't get the cheap stuff. Not sure the brands you,have over there.

5/8" wrench on the line nut and hold the fitting with a 1/2" wrench. The fittings are brass so they won't rust to the fitting. They rust the nut to the line. When you loosen them go easy and work the nuts back and forth so they will break free of the metal line, otherwise they will be twisting the line.

Imperial cars are usually longer In the front and that makes the lines longer than other Chrysler cars. Does a 69 have a deep fan shroud similar to a 67-68?

 

[Gerald Morris]

Those can come off with finesse. Wire brush front and back of the nuts, and penetrant soak them a few days ahead. Spray it often. Do not use WD-40, it's not very good. Use Deep Creep, Aero Kroil, PB Blaster, etc. you get what you pay for don't get the cheap stuff. Not sure the brands you,have over there.

....

WD-40 isn't even cheap, as far as COST goes anyway. Folks need to know the stuff is just a dispersant, NOT a penetrant or lubricant. Marketing deludes MANY featherless bipeds....

 

[Gerald Morris]

My radiator has started leaking and I have to remove it for repair. When I looked under the car I found out that the oil cooler line attachment/fitting looks rusty. Lines are probably OK, but Im not sure I be able to loosen the lines, if afraid they will be twisted. Any advice on how to that?

And are new lines available? Im not sure if the lines on 1969 Imperial are the same as on the Chrysler (newport, 300 and New Yorker) but they could be.

Here are a few pics:

Inline Tube is one company here which makes sets of tubes and such for old cars. Check them out: Inline Tube | Preformed Lines, Brake Products, DIY & Restoration Parts

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Soak the fittings in a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. Let it sit for a week. Soak it daily.

Get a proper set of line wrenches, and use them. One to hold the fitting at the radiator side, and the other to turn the fitting on the line. Otherwise you WILL twist the fitting out of the radiator.

 

[ImperialLeBaron1969]

Those can come off with finesse. Wire brush front and back of the nuts, and penetrant soak them a few days ahead. Spray it often. Do not use WD-40, it's not very good. Use Deep Creep, Aero Kroil, PB Blaster, etc. you get what you pay for don't get the cheap stuff. Not sure the brands you,have over there.

5/8" wrench on the line nut and hold the fitting with a 1/2" wrench. The fittings are brass so they won't rust to the fitting. They rust the nut to the line. When you loosen them go easy and work the nuts back and forth so they will break free of the metal line, otherwise they will be twisting the line.

Imperial cars are usually longer In the front and that makes the lines longer than other Chrysler cars. Does a 69 have a deep fan shroud similar to a 67-68?

Thank you, really good advice!

 

[413]

Using the term "Flare nut wrench" will help you find them easier.

A flare nut wrench will not go onto the fittings, just the nuts.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Soak the fittings in a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. Let it sit for a week. Soak it daily.

Get a proper set of line wrenches, and use them. One to hold the fitting at the radiator side, and the other to turn the fitting on the line. Otherwise you WILL twist the fitting out of the radiator.

What's the best method to soak them? Is there a way to use a container and keep the fittings doused for hours at a time?
Usually, I spray on Penetrant several times a day, but most of that drains away.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

They don't have to be immersed - I use an old paint brush. Yes, some will drip away.

 

[Gerald Morris]

What's the best method to soak them? Is there a way to use a container and keep the fittings doused for hours at a time?
Usually, I spray on Penetrant several times a day, but most of that drains away.

Use an aluminum can. Cut a slot in one side for the line, and a hole for the fitting(s) on the other. Provide length on each side to make long tabs to bend over the line and fittings, thus hanging the can on the line, then, fill it with the light mineral oil (ATF) and acetone mixture up to the point where it will start dripping over the top edge of your can. Put a turkey pan under this to prevent ecological harm. You might even slip your tubing wrenches over each respective fitting BEFORE you rig your soak can. That way, you can TAP on them, to create a little space for the penetrant to work into the threads. Give them a few taps every hour, until the fittings loosen enough to commence work. The secondary surface requiring lubrication consists of the interface between the tube surface and the inner surface of the fittings. This will minimize chances of the flare nut twisting the line, which is VERY IMPORTANT!

 

[michiganhotrod1]

For that rust, get a plumbers MAPP torch and heat the fitings. Don't go crazy but the heat burns off the oxidation. Use the flare wrench as posted above, and make sure you watch where the torch is aimed to prevent colateral damage. Try a couple short heating sessions with application of rust penetrant of your choice in between.
Mark

 

[GOLDMYN]

Kroil oil is great stuff!

 

[SIPLOWGUY]

Soak them with a good penetrant such as PB Blaster and work carefully. They will come loose with a little finesse

 

[sander66]

Those can come off with finesse. Wire brush front and back of the nuts, and penetrant soak them a few days ahead. Spray it often. Do not use WD-40, it's not very good. Use Deep Creep, Aero Kroil, PB Blaster, etc. you get what you pay for don't get the cheap stuff. Not sure the brands you,have over there.

5/8" wrench on the line nut and hold the fitting with a 1/2" wrench. The fittings are brass so they won't rust to the fitting. They rust the nut to the line. When you loosen them go easy and work the nuts back and forth so they will break free of the metal line, otherwise they will be twisting the line.

Imperial cars are usually longer In the front and that makes the lines longer than other Chrysler cars. Does a 69 have a deep fan shroud similar to a 67-68?

I’ve had good luck with a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid - relatively cheap and very effective with rusty bolts.

 

[volksworld]

For that rust, get a plumbers MAPP torch and heat the fitings. Don't go crazy but the heat burns off the oxidation. Use the flare wrench as posted above, and make sure you watch where the torch is aimed to prevent colateral damage. Try a couple short heating sessions with application of rust penetrant of your choice in between.
Mark

yes, the last thing you want to do is melt the solder joint between the core and the tank

 

[edbods]

I’ve had good luck with a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid - relatively cheap and very effective with rusty bolts.

I think there's been a few youtube tests where the ATF/acetone mix was found to be just as good as, if not better than, most of the more expensive/premium penetrants.