Tuning up my Fury III

[Turboomni]

My Fury hasn't been her self this spring so I got out the dwell,vac, and feeler gauges to check things out. Idle was low and not running smooth even after I raised the idle . Anyways got the aircleaner off and was going to install my vac gauge on the line to the dizzy. Just to be methodical I pulled a vacuum [me]on the line to the dizzy and was very surprised the vacuum canister in the dizzy would not hold a vacuum. I just put in the dizzy last summer. Interestingly if I applied pressure to the line it would somewhat hold. Weird. I am assuming that is the old gal's problem with no vacuum advance and a vacuum leak. My question is where can I get just the vacuum canister and which one should I get?? Below are pics of the piece of crap and the part number [cardone number] .
Any info would be great and thanks as always.

 

[Darter6]

Get a new one from RockAuto. I just changed the one on my 68 Valiant. They come in different ratios. Mine was a 10. It is marked on the canisters arm.

 

[Turboomni]

Thanks ,,didn't know about the ratio part either.

 

[commando1]

What's this ratio thing you mention???

 

[Turboomni]

I think the ratio means the vacuum setting for full advance of the canister. They are adjustable though. I saw one on Rock Auto and the specs said something like "full advance at 11 inches of vacuum" .
I have had no luck finding one for my car. Called Cardone to try and get one since it was rebuilt by them with a new canister. Called Standard Auto Products and they said they don't make them. Called Mancini racing and they carry no points style vac canisters. The rock auto ones I think are for electronic ignitions as the arm looks different. I'll keep looking...

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I think the ratio means the vacuum setting for full advance of the canister. They are adjustable though. I saw one on Rock Auto and the specs said something like "full advance at 11 inches of vacuum" .
I have had no luck finding one for my car. Called Cardone to try and get one since it was rebuilt by them with a new canister. Called Standard Auto Products and they said they don't make them. Called Mancini racing and they carry no points style vac canisters. The rock auto ones I think are for electronic ignitions as the arm looks different. I'll keep looking...

Welcome to the no vacuum advance availble club, I have been looking for one someone linked a vacuum advance for a 70 D series truck it seems to have the right arm direction.
I am either cutting the arm off the old one and tacking it to the new one or I'm redrilling the point plate to use the electronic vacuum canisters. I have not messed with it lately because the car is stuck up in the air with the other below until I get the torque converter changed in my Challenger.

 

[Turboomni]

Welcome to the no vacuum advance availble club, I have been looking for one someone linked a vacuum advance for a 70 D series truck it seems to have the right arm direction.
I am either cutting the arm off the old one and tacking it to the new one or I'm redrilling the point plate to use the electronic vacuum canisters. I have not messed with it lately because the car is stuck up in the air with the other below until I get the torque converter changed in my Challenger.

Thanks for the reply. I have been tearing out what little hair I have left trying to find a supposedly easily available part. I called Cardone as it is a reman part with a NEW vacuum advance canister. They couldn't sell me one, and they couldn't tell me the part number either. They just didn't have the info. They even called me back after researching it with no real answer. One solution would be to return the whole dizzy under warranty they said as I bought it last August with a 1 year warranty/ but geeze WTF?? I got a few other options in the fire now and will let you know what I find. Wish me luck,,,,,

 

[Turboomni]

UPDATE: I wound up somehow through a recommendation to call Tony's Parts at tonysparts.com. He said they will be having repro vacuum canisters for my single points application in one to two months. He said they saw a need for them. He also mentioned a dual points canister also. Seemed like a nice fellow. We shall see if it happens. I really don't want to go the electronic ignition route and just keep it original as my Fury is just a cruiser and runs fine without a vacuum leak and with vacuum advance.

 

[Turboomni]

Well I am glad I kept the old distributor. I took the vacuum canister of it and put it on my new one as it holds a vacuum. The car has never run better. I have a feeling the one that failed always had a slight leak and it got worse lately.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I'm just going to grow my own.

 

[CBODY67]

Digging around in RockAuto with different model years and such yielded a Standard Motor Parts vac can.

In the RockAuto listings . . .

1971 Chrysler Newport 383 #VC167 Advance starts at 10.5" Hg ALSO fits 360 in same application. The Buyers' Guide listing goes back to 1968 and up to 1972 for various models.

#VC187 Advance starts at 10.5" Hg 1972-73 and up to 1978 on some truck chassis models 360-400-440

#VC188 Advance starts at 8" Hg 1975-78 400-440
#VC189 Advance starts at 7" Hg 1975 Newport 360
(I looked these up for Chrysler models, but they'll fit Dodge, Plym, Imp, light truck chassis, as applicable)

I looked at a 1965 Dart 273 V-8 listing. #VC155 Advance starts 7.0-9.0" Hg Buyers Guide has listings from 1960-68, including 1962 Valiant, which would be Slant Six. Many large Dodge and light truck chassis listings. Plus 1968 Road Runner and '65-68 Satellite.

I suspect many are similar, with the main differences being when the vac adv starts (which might be adjustable via an Allen wrench through the vac nipple) and the total number of advance degrees.

They ARE out there, possibly not for a specific application, but obviously something close enough to work decently well. There was NO mention of points or electronic ignition, although model year breaks might determine that. The later listings were for "Exc Lean Burn".

Sometimes, you have to read between the lines with some "common" parts for older vehicles AND have a working knowledge of "product knowledge" rather than what's on the printed (or electronic) page.

The Chrysler dual-point units would be the cast iron Prestolite distributors, in the earlier years and aluminum housing by the time the 440 6-paks arrived with one.

So, there's you some numbers to deal with without having to resort to a restoration parts vendor and possibly higher prices. After all, THEY have to get them from somewhere.

CBODY67

 

[Turboomni]

Thanks for your post. I see you have really researched this and we all appreciate that.. I believe it is not the canister itself but the arm that attaches to the distributor which is much different. I don't know why they are so rare. here is a pic. It goes under the plate not over. I hope someone with more knowledge will chime in or enlighten me. I have been told that such canisters like this go for big bucks on ebay. I found none that look like this on Rock Auto or anywhere else.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Small block VC will not work, dist rotation is opposite.
Turboomni I ended up redrilling the plate to use the plentiful electronic VC Whit the arm that points in toward the shaft. One caveat to beware is you will have to file pin down so it does not interfere with the points themselves seating or lift the plate up when tightened. I have not fired my car yet but it operates correctly with hand vacuum. I should know more this weekend.