What is this part and what does it do?

SteveinKY

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Hello all, my 1973 Fury 440 motor starts but will only continue to run by holding the ignition key down. The ignition itself has a lot of “slop” in it. Got inside the steering wheel and now trying to figure out what the pictured part is/does. Any help would be appreciated. Already have the wiring diagram too. Thank you in advance!!
 
That is classic ballast resistor symptoms. You have to hold the key in the "start" position to bypass the resistor.
 
Hello all, my 1973 Fury 440 motor starts but will only continue to run by holding the ignition key down. The ignition itself has a lot of “slop” in it. Got inside the steering wheel and now trying to figure out what the pictured part is/does. Any help would be appreciated. Already have the wiring diagram too. Thank you in advance!!

Go under your hood and hotwire the ignition. If the engine runs, then work your way back to the ignition switch. The FSM should tell you what that little plastic part is. I don't do fuselage models, so can't tell you about that, but ignition problems are usually pretty simple stuff. You have a dual ballast or single on that?
 
You have a dual ballast or single on that?
'73 would have dual unless changed. The dual isn't needed with the newer 4 pin ECU, but needed with the 5 pin. Although... I think the new 5 pin ECUs are wired like 4 pin internally, but I could be completely wrong on that... It would be a better system if it did though. If you look at how the BR works in "start" mode with an original 5 pin, you'll see that it's kind of Mickey Mouse and doesn't work as you think it does.

Post #12 explains it. Question on Ballast Resistors
 
In answer to the initial question, I believe that part is an anti theft device. If the key cylinder is removed (perhaps by a thief using a slide hammer) that device disables the ignition. This is "foggy" in my memory, havn't seen that for over 30 years. Lindsay
 
In answer to the initial question, I believe that part is an anti theft device. If the key cylinder is removed (perhaps by a thief using a slide hammer) that device disables the ignition. This is "foggy" in my memory, havn't seen that for over 30 years. Lindsay
It's the "key in" warning switch.

Leave the key in with the door open and you get an annoying buzz.
 
'73 would have dual unless changed. The dual isn't needed with the newer 4 pin ECU, but needed with the 5 pin. Although... I think the new 5 pin ECUs are wired like 4 pin internally, but I could be completely wrong on that... It would be a better system if it did though. If you look at how the BR works in "start" mode with an original 5 pin, you'll see that it's kind of Mickey Mouse and doesn't work as you think it does.

Post #12 explains it. Question on Ballast Resistors

Good to know. I will modernize if I ever get a vehicle so equipped. My '83 D150 got an aftermarket unit when I cleaned the Lean Burn out.
 
Go under your hood and hotwire the ignition. If the engine runs, then work your way back to the ignition switch. The FSM should tell you what that little plastic part is. I don't do fuselage models, so can't tell you about that, but ignition problems are usually pretty simple stuff. You have a dual ballast or single on that?
Single ballast with 4 terminals, put a new one on today but haven’t tried to start the car.
 
'73 would have dual unless changed. The dual isn't needed with the newer 4 pin ECU, but needed with the 5 pin. Although... I think the new 5 pin ECUs are wired like 4 pin internally, but I could be completely wrong on that... It would be a better system if it did though. If you look at how the BR works in "start" mode with an original 5 pin, you'll see that it's kind of Mickey Mouse and doesn't work as you think it does.

Post #12 explains it. Question on Ballast Resistor
Single ballast with 4 terminals, put a new one on today but haven’t tried to start the car.
also just put a new 5 pin ECU on it 3 days ago, it started and ran ok, but today it decided to be a pain!
 
Single ballast with 4 terminals, put a new one on today but haven’t tried to start the car.

You should still be able to heat up that circuit by a hot wire to the ballast resistor. Disconnect the ignition switch lead. Hotwire the ballast resistor and bump the motor over with a screwdriver at the starter relay.
 
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