Introducing my new-to-me 1961 Newport.....and everything wrong with it.....erm...so far.

Treozen

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I've been asking a few questions here and there, some before I even bought the car, but now that she's here I thought I'd do the formal introduction....Meet "car" .....name TBD.


"Car" is a 1961 Chrysler Newport, that has been sort of warmed-over as a 300 look-a-like, at least in part. She has the grill from what I believe is a '62 300, and the engine and transmission from what I'm told was a similar year New Yorker. The engine is a 413 with long-ram dual four barrel, transmission is aluminum - which I believe makes it '62+ . She runs and drives, in fact I picked the kids up from school today, but as you'd expect, there are a few needs:

The Big Ones

1) Car has about 5" of freeplay in the wheel, and after an unsuccessful adjustment of the gear lash (no change) I am hoping it's the rubber isolator - failing that, it'll be new steering box time. Car is driveable, but much over 40MPH and she wanders around like a drunk and its a bit too white-knuckle for my liking. All the front-end suspension components were recently replaced, so that's good anyway.

2) Car has drum brakes, and they work well-enough, but there is a fairly significant pulsation when coming to a stop - as though a drum were warped and the shoes are making intermittent contact - or the shoes are not contoured to the drum. Its not the end of the world, but it is a bit too much to live with. Remains to be seen if I'll fix the drums or just go to discs - I found a kit I like through Andy Bernbaum and it includes a correct disc / drum master that - so I confirmed - fits under the stock power booster assembly. So we'll see if that's the route I go or not.

3) Car has some sort of vacuum leak introduced when you are using the brake - you can actually feel and hear the car run rough when holding the brake, and recover when you release. I think I can also hear the leak - I have a similar issue with my '67 Tempest, though in that case the leak isn't large enough to show up in how the engine runs. Part of the issue is that Car runs just "ok" but there's room for improvement. I haven't looked to see if its a problem with a check-valve, a problem with the booster unit or a problem with the vacuum canister under the battery, but some way, somehow, we get a vacuum leak when the brakes are applied.

The Middle Ones

4) Car runs ok, but has a bit of a miss at times, stalls at times if given too much fuel and then brought to a sudden stop, doesn't have any chokes hooked up and idles way too high. I've not even attempted to tune or calibrate, so I expect there's a lot that can be done with some tweaking. As of now though, she starts up pretty much first turn of the key and you just need to play with the gas pedal for about 30 seconds, then she'll idle. Once warm, restarts are fast and smooth - so I don't think its that far off, but I don't think the carbs are well-synced and I have no idea where we are in terms of timing or last time the points were addressed, etc. Everything looks in place, but old, and in some cases mismatched (plug wires, for example).

5) Car needs some work on her functions. Wipers work, but on their own schedule - like a random intermittent setting. Heater works, but only on LOW or Defrost - HIGH does nothing, and the "AIR" button doesn't depress at all - frankly all the HVAC buttons are tighter than my grandpa's wallet. Turn signals are having fun with me - Left turn stays engaged, but doesn't auto cancel. Right turn doesn't stay engaged at all - but both do work in that the lights flash. Radio lights come on, but no sound - unknown if its the radio or the speaker.....right....its the radio....but maybe its the speaker ;-) Clock wants to work, but doesn't (no surprise) no horn and no map light.

The Small Things

6) Car is missing her dashpad. I already located a supplier out of Swewden, so I'll probably replace it.

7) Car has a rather broken steering wheel. I found a few places that restore them, but I'd need to knock-over 47 gas-stations and a Wells Fargo to pay for it, so I have an alternate plan for that. I've done some leatherwork in the past, and I'm pretty handy with interiors, so I may try replace the missing top rim with leather to match either the eventual dashpad or seats. It'll be an experiment. The previous owner did a wrap in vinyl, which will work well enough in the short term.

8) Car has throttle return springs previously designed for the Titanic. Its very difficult to get a smooth take-off without looking like a jerk - so those need replaced or adjusted such that you can pull away smoothly, and without having a workout routine for your ankle.

9) Car has - what I assume is either blow-by or burn-off, coming from under the passenger side ram manifold, where the manifold crosses (and touches, I believe) the valve cover. There is not much blow-by to speak of on the other side, which I find odd, but something is causing a noticeable vapor on the passenger side - it's almost as though there were a hole in the valve cover - right where an oil fill might be, only instead the long ram is covering it up. I don't think its an issue per-say, but its certainly annoyng to have one side of the motor look like Thomas the tank engine.

SO - that's the list as of now. Overall, I'm pretty pleased and although body and paint are not perfect, they are well good enough for what I need and require no fixes or repairs - which is great because while I can do electrical, mechanical and upholstery, to me body and paint is essentially witchcraft.
20240502_173530.jpg


20240502_173325.jpg
 
The car looks really good.

For a look at what a cross ram induction system looks like on the engine, there are a couple of videos on a dyno session on the Nick's Garage YouTube channel. Many shots of the engine on the dyno and from above. There might be some tricks to dealing with idle speed and mixture issues which might be in one of the Chrysler 300 Letter Car websites, or even on similar Plymouth Sonoramic-related websites.

There has seemed to be a strong following for 1960s-era Mopars in the Sweden region. In the earlier 1980s, a group of guys from over there were in town when our Mopar club was having our annual show. They came buy and we chatted about various things, including how they re-cast the instrument panels in fiberglass for right-hand drive. I was amazed listening to them and the lengths they went to to make the cars appear completely OEM when done. Many Walter P. Chrysler club members over there, too.

On later model steering column turn signal switches, there is the cancelling cam that is secured to the steering column and is also an intermediary piece in the horn circuit. On the outer edge of its lower section are two nubs that contact with the springs that maintain the turn signal slevel in the neutral position and also return it to that position after a turn, self-cancelling the signals. The springs are separate and replaceable, also being specific to each side, usually color-coded. If the turn signal lever droops, it could mean one of the springs has failed. No self-cancelling might mean the nubs on the cancelling cam have worn with age or crazed and chipped away. My experiences have been with the more current GM-Saginaw columns, but I also understand the Chrysler columns were different, but similar.

I know you are in the discovery phase of things. An evolving process and learning experience with an interesting car. Normally, non-300 Letter cars sacrificed their parts to restore the more valuable 300 Letter cars, not vice versa. So what you have might be termed a "Day 4" type of car? Performance upgrades as they presented themselves.

Please keep us posted on your progress,
CBODY67
 
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Love it!
Maybe the front shoes just need a shave to contour to the drums
 
Sometimes, drums can be the victim of "lot rot" of the friction surfaces. A bit of surface rust in some sections as others are smooth. The surface rust can be worn away after several stops. Can cause a bit of pulsation in stopping, but not pedal pulsations, typically. You're going to need to take the drums off for inspection.

CBODY67
 
Thanks all - yes, there's lots of investigation to be done - The pulsation is in the way the car stops, not in the pedal - so I'd say its definitely a drum / Shoe thing. The only odd thing is that the car doesn't pull to one side or anything, so its as though the issue - whatever it is - is equal on both sides of the car.

I've not had the chance to investigate the steering rubber isolator yet - but finger crossed!
 
I see you have non-stock wheels on the car. If they are 14s as the originals were, that's probably where your "significant pulsation" is coming from. I had 14s on my '62 New Yorker. I put 14" Rallye Wheels on and got the same results you are having. Something about the backspacing of the original wheels; when putting non-stock wheels on, oh boy! I switched to 15" Chrysler Road Wheels and all went away.

The grill might be from a '62 New Yorker; they used the 300 style grill in that year.

The heads on the big blocks changed in mid-year on '62. Early heads only have 4 nuts for the valve covers, latter had 6 as they did for the remainder of their production. If your has 4, you have an early '62, or even an older 413.

The "300 style" grill on a '62 New Yorker.
frontview.JPG


Can't really see, but the valve covers only have 4 nuts: early '62 Production.
engineright.JPG


15" road wheels took care of the bouncing problem with the brakes.
driversside.JPG
 
I see you have non-stock wheels on the car. If they are 14s as the originals were, that's probably where your "significant pulsation" is coming from.

The grill might be from a '62 New Yorker; they used the 300 style grill in that year.

The heads on the big blocks changed in mid-year on '62. Early heads only have 4 nuts for the valve covers, latter had 6 as they did for the remainder of their production. If your has 4, you have an early '62, or even an older 413.
The wheels - and I am not sure what brand or model - are 15". So no joy on that front.

I wonder if everything came out of a New Yorker - grill, engine, transmission - it would make sense. Did the '62 have the long ram manifold as an option? Not that it matters I guess, the manifold could have been added. I wasn't able to find any engine numbers on the block - impossible to see down the sides of the motor due to the manifolds (these really are in the way of every darn thing) but I'll perhaps try from underneath. The stamp pad on the front, driver's side, just ahead of the intake seems to say 1221 and then to the right at a 45 degree angle to the other numbers, it says "41". Its pretty heavily painted, so perhaps there are other numbers there too and I just cant see them. The valve covers have 6 bolts.

That's a nice looking '62. The '62 Chrysler was almost my first car - and ever since I've wanted to own one - sort of capture the one that got away - BUT....I liked the fins more on the '61, so , I cheated ;-)
 
The wheels - and I am not sure what brand or model - are 15". So no joy on that front.

I wonder if everything came out of a New Yorker - grill, engine, transmission - it would make sense. Did the '62 have the long ram manifold as an option? Not that it matters I guess, the manifold could have been added. I wasn't able to find any engine numbers on the block - impossible to see down the sides of the motor due to the manifolds (these really are in the way of every darn thing) but I'll perhaps try from underneath. The stamp pad on the front, driver's side, just ahead of the intake seems to say 1221 and then to the right at a 45 degree angle to the other numbers, it says "41". Its pretty heavily painted, so perhaps there are other numbers there too and I just cant see them. The valve covers have 6 bolts.

That's a nice looking '62. The '62 Chrysler was almost my first car - and ever since I've wanted to own one - sort of capture the one that got away - BUT....I liked the fins more on the '61, so , I cheated ;-)
Thanks. I sold it to Steve Hobby 20 years ago when I found my '70 Newport.

The cross-ram was not offered in '62; the 300-H came with in-line manifolds, now that I think about it. Don't know why they dropped it that year as they were available again in '63. Whether that intake was available in a New Yorker, I don't know.
 
The ram induction was only available on the 300 Letter cars. NO other Chryslers from the factory. The inline 2x4bbl was available for installation "after the fact", though. I seem to recall that 413 4bbls could be optioned into non-New Yorkers and 300s, though?

With 6-bolt valve covers, the plot thickens a bit. Might need to chase casting numbers and such. A cell phone camera can come in handy for "seeing" into difficult places. Perhaps even with a borescope attachment? Plus being able to enlarge the picture.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
With 6-bolt valve covers, the plot thickens a bit. Might need to chase casting numbers and such. A cell phone camera can come in handy for "seeing" into difficult places. Perhaps even with a borescope attachment? Plus being able to enlarge the picture.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Well, here is what I could find:

My research suggests the block code (2205697) means its a 413 from 1959 - 1964. I am not sure what the "-2" means. The stamp pad numbers may be a date code, but not sure. S-41, again from research, suggests this means S = 1962 and 41= 413 engine and some sources suggest the "41" also means "New Yorker". So, for example if it read S-36 it would have been a 1961 413 from a Newport, where "36" means both 413 engine and the model it came from.


Block Num.jpg
Stamp pad.jpg
 
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Someone might have put heads on it then for any number of reasons
 
Those stamp codes look more like some inspection codes rather than anything related to the model of car the block came in, to me. Just my suspicion.

The "-" number after the casting number probably relates to the version of the casting cores used to cast the block. Such "-" numbers exist on later model year blocks of all sizes, from what I've seen. You might look for somewhat recent threads in here on where the date code stamps are.

Research continues,
CBODY67
 
Orange paint? In '62 they were blue or black. Here is a 413 xRam from a 1960 F:

IMG_0795.JPG
 
Orange paint? In '62 they were blue or black. Here is a 413 xRam from a 1960 F:
The entire engine, from oil pan to intake, was painted the same red as the car. I have no idea why, and there is evidence it was once a light blue. I can only imagine that when the engine was replaced, they decided to paint the entire thing red - for reasons that escape me, but must have made sense to them.
 
I've been asking a few questions here and there, some before I even bought the car, but now that she's here I thought I'd do the formal introduction....Meet "car" .....name TBD.


"Car" is a 1961 Chrysler Newport, that has been sort of warmed-over as a 300 look-a-like, at least in part. She has the grill from what I believe is a '62 300, and the engine and transmission from what I'm told was a similar year New Yorker. The engine is a 413 with long-ram dual four barrel, transmission is aluminum - which I believe makes it '62+ . She runs and drives, in fact I picked the kids up from school today, but as you'd expect, there are a few needs:

The Big Ones

1) Car has about 5" of freeplay in the wheel, and after an unsuccessful adjustment of the gear lash (no change) I am hoping it's the rubber isolator - failing that, it'll be new steering box time. Car is driveable, but much over 40MPH and she wanders around like a drunk and its a bit too white-knuckle for my liking. All the front-end suspension components were recently replaced, so that's good anyway.

2) Car has drum brakes, and they work well-enough, but there is a fairly significant pulsation when coming to a stop - as though a drum were warped and the shoes are making intermittent contact - or the shoes are not contoured to the drum. Its not the end of the world, but it is a bit too much to live with. Remains to be seen if I'll fix the drums or just go to discs - I found a kit I like through Andy Bernbaum and it includes a correct disc / drum master that - so I confirmed - fits under the stock power booster assembly. So we'll see if that's the route I go or not.

3) Car has some sort of vacuum leak introduced when you are using the brake - you can actually feel and hear the car run rough when holding the brake, and recover when you release. I think I can also hear the leak - I have a similar issue with my '67 Tempest, though in that case the leak isn't large enough to show up in how the engine runs. Part of the issue is that Car runs just "ok" but there's room for improvement. I haven't looked to see if its a problem with a check-valve, a problem with the booster unit or a problem with the vacuum canister under the battery, but some way, somehow, we get a vacuum leak when the brakes are applied.

The Middle Ones

4) Car runs ok, but has a bit of a miss at times, stalls at times if given too much fuel and then brought to a sudden stop, doesn't have any chokes hooked up and idles way too high. I've not even attempted to tune or calibrate, so I expect there's a lot that can be done with some tweaking. As of now though, she starts up pretty much first turn of the key and you just need to play with the gas pedal for about 30 seconds, then she'll idle. Once warm, restarts are fast and smooth - so I don't think its that far off, but I don't think the carbs are well-synced and I have no idea where we are in terms of timing or last time the points were addressed, etc. Everything looks in place, but old, and in some cases mismatched (plug wires, for example).

5) Car needs some work on her functions. Wipers work, but on their own schedule - like a random intermittent setting. Heater works, but only on LOW or Defrost - HIGH does nothing, and the "AIR" button doesn't depress at all - frankly all the HVAC buttons are tighter than my grandpa's wallet. Turn signals are having fun with me - Left turn stays engaged, but doesn't auto cancel. Right turn doesn't stay engaged at all - but both do work in that the lights flash. Radio lights come on, but no sound - unknown if its the radio or the speaker.....right....its the radio....but maybe its the speaker ;-) Clock wants to work, but doesn't (no surprise) no horn and no map light.

The Small Things

6) Car is missing her dashpad. I already located a supplier out of Swewden, so I'll probably replace it.

7) Car has a rather broken steering wheel. I found a few places that restore them, but I'd need to knock-over 47 gas-stations and a Wells Fargo to pay for it, so I have an alternate plan for that. I've done some leatherwork in the past, and I'm pretty handy with interiors, so I may try replace the missing top rim with leather to match either the eventual dashpad or seats. It'll be an experiment. The previous owner did a wrap in vinyl, which will work well enough in the short term.

8) Car has throttle return springs previously designed for the Titanic. Its very difficult to get a smooth take-off without looking like a jerk - so those need replaced or adjusted such that you can pull away smoothly, and without having a workout routine for your ankle.

9) Car has - what I assume is either blow-by or burn-off, coming from under the passenger side ram manifold, where the manifold crosses (and touches, I believe) the valve cover. There is not much blow-by to speak of on the other side, which I find odd, but something is causing a noticeable vapor on the passenger side - it's almost as though there were a hole in the valve cover - right where an oil fill might be, only instead the long ram is covering it up. I don't think its an issue per-say, but its certainly annoyng to have one side of the motor look like Thomas the tank engine.

SO - that's the list as of now. Overall, I'm pretty pleased and although body and paint are not perfect, they are well good enough for what I need and require no fixes or repairs - which is great because while I can do electrical, mechanical and upholstery, to me body and paint is essentially witchcraft.
View attachment 659088

View attachment 659087

For arch matching the brake shoes to the drum I line the drum with stickum air file sandpaper and run the shoe around the drum.
Yep, the old steering wheels are an expensive pain. So, like you, I fancied a nice leather wrap. I filled the cracks with resin. Then got a perforated leather cover. They come any color you want, but are all too small in circle diameter and to big in grip circumference. I soaked and stretched for the diameter, then cut for the grip circumference and used the perforated vent holes for the laces.
Congratulations on a gorgeous Chrysler.
 
For arch matching the brake shoes to the drum I line the drum with stickum air file sandpaper and run the shoe around the drum.
Yep, the old steering wheels are an expensive pain. So, like you, I fancied a nice leather wrap. I filled the cracks with resin. Then got a perforated leather cover. They come any color you want, but are all too small in circle diameter and to big in grip circumference. I soaked and stretched for the diameter, then cut for the grip circumference and used the perforated vent holes for the laces.
Congratulations on a gorgeous Chrysler.

Thank you! one of the things I like about it is that you don't see one every day - or even at every car show.

I was thinking resin for the cracks myself - perhaps try color match.
 
Thank you! one of the things I like about it is that you don't see one every day - or even at every car show.

I was thinking resin for the cracks myself - perhaps try color match.

My wheel was way past any color matching. Wide cracks, large missing pieces, large bubbles, small bumps......
 
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