Wiring in electric choke

[polarnj]

1969 Polara with 383 engine

I have an Edelbrock carb that has the choke disconnected. Looks like the prev owner never bothered to hook it up, no wires or anything

Assuming I can confirm it works, or I get a new carb., what's the best place to hook it up so that it's only active with the engine running?

 

[Toolmanmike]

I have used the power side of the ballast resistor.

 

[polarnj]

I have used the power side of the ballast resistor. You can run a wire over to the starter relay as well.

where can I find the ballast resistor? Is it wrapped up in tape?
I'd think the starter relay is live all the time no?

 

[ceebuddy]

Provided that your car is more or less in stock condition, the ballast resistor is a white, boxy looking part made from ceramic material and mounted to the passenger side of the firewall, about 1" x 3" in size.

There should be one dark blue wire connected to one side of the ballast resistor (coming from the voltage regulator) and a brown as well as another dark blue wire connected to the other side of the ballast resistor. Add a connection for the choke heater to the side of the ballast resistor where there is only one (dark blue) wire connected to the ballast resistor.

 

[GOLDMYN]

here

 

[SIPLOWGUY]

Add a connection for the choke heater to the side of the ballast resistor where there is only one (dark blue) wire connected to the ballast resistor.

I use a piggyback terminal. Preferably insulated.

 

[Big_John]

You can run a wire over to the starter relay as well.

The relay is hot all the time so you can't use that.

 

[Big_John]

1969 Polara with 383 engine

I have an Edelbrock carb that has the choke disconnected. Looks like the prev owner never bothered to hook it up, no wires or anything

Assuming I can confirm it works, or I get a new carb., what's the best place to hook it up so that it's only active with the engine running?

Easy place to hook to is at the coil. The wire should be dark blue on the positive terminal and it runs directly to the ballast resistor.

Basically the same as the hook up to the ballast resistor only without having to add another connection there. Just a simple terminal on the end of the choke wire.

EDIT: Don't do it this way. Brain fart on my end.

 

[SIPLOWGUY]

Easy place to hook to is at the coil. The wire should be dark blue on the positive terminal and it runs directly to the ballast resistor.

Basically the same as the hook up to the ballast resistor only without having to add another connection there. Just a simple terminal on the end of the choke wire.

EDIT: Don't do it this way. Brain fart on my end.

I Concur

 

[Luke Pokrajac]

I never thought of that. It's a much better idea!

If you're on the downstream side of the ballast resistor the voltage will only be around 8-9 volts. You have to use the upstream side of the ballast resistor.

 

[Big_John]

If you're on the downstream side of the ballast resistor the voltage will only be around 8-9 volts. You have to use the upstream side of the ballast resistor.

You are correct and thinking about it, the voltage would drop even more to the coil as the load would be increased. (Ohm's Law)

So... Don't connect it at the coil. Brain fart on my part.

 

[Vaanth]

1969 Polara with 383 engine

I have an Edelbrock carb that has the choke disconnected. Looks like the prev owner never bothered to hook it up, no wires or anything

Assuming I can confirm it works, or I get a new carb., what's the best place to hook it up so that it's only active with the engine running?

To connect the Edelbrock electric choke to power, do the following:

Wire the electric choke negative terminal to the carburetor body, or other ground, as shown in the following image:

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Wire the positive terminal into the Ignition RUN circuit of the vehicle as shown in one of the following diagrams which match your Chrysler ignition system:

Point Ignition System:

Electronic Ignition with 5-pin ECU and 4-terminal ballast resistor:

Electronic Ignition with 4-pin ECU and 2-terminal ballast resistor:

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If using the Chrysler 1973 - 1984 electric choke controller, wire the positive terminal as shown in one of the following diagrams which match your Chrysler ignition system:


Point Ignition System, with electric choke controller:

Electronic Ignition with 5-pin ECU and 4-terminal ballast resistor, with electric choke controller:

Electronic Ignition with 4-pin ECU and 2-terminal ballast resistor, with electric choke controller:

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To prevent power from being applied to the choke when the engine is off, but the key switch for Ignition RUN is on, an oil pressure switch can be added in place of the stock oil light switch, or in addition to the oil pressure sensor. Chrysler added an oil pressure switch like this in 1979 which cuts power when there is no oil pressure.

The 1979 - 1989 switch (Chrysler number 3231347, 3747431, 4186352) is a three terminal switch with one terminal connected to the dash oil light and the other two terminals in the circuit wiring to the choke control.
The following image shows the three terminal pressure switch:

Connect the switch inline between the Ignition RUN circuit and the electric choke,or choke controller as shown in the following image:

If adding to an engine with an oil pressure gauge and sensor, use a tee as shown in the following image:

Oil Light and Choke Combination Switch Part Numbers​

• Chrysler ( 1979-89 ) 3231347, 3747431, 4186352, 4267021, J3231347, J3747431
• Borg Warner S385
• CarQuest SAA4593
• Filko OP-93X
• G/P OPS 55
• Kem PS87
• Niehoff AL133T
• Rock Hill PS-132
• Standard PS-133
• Switches 2430

---

 

[Fury1969WI]

with key on should get 12.x V here.

 

[CBODY67]

Holley used to sell a "Thermistor" to put into the gtround circuit for the electric choke. It varied the current to ground by the temperature of the engine itself rather than the ambient air temp around the choke coil. Sounded like a good theory, but I could tell no difference, so I unhooked and removed it. It now sits on a shelf somewhere.

I have used that "adapter" connector many times, in the uninsulated version. The wires connected to it had insulators, though.

The physical location of the ballast resistor VARIES with model year (and which platform the car is built on). @GOLDMYN indicates the "Slabs" and the rh cowl location is typical for "Fuselage" Chrysler products.

Thanks for those schematics, @Vaanth.

CBODY67

 

[Fury1969WI]

wire from "upstream" (power feed from ign/key on) side to Choke +

 

[Toolmanmike]

The relay is hot all the time so you can't use that.

Ign 1 and Acc terminals should have power with the key on. Correct?


ACC---hot in "run" position or "accessory" position.

IGN1--the "run" terminal, hot ONLY in "run" position, DEAD in start!! THIS is what feeds alternator field (on 70/ later), The VR, the ignition system, electric chokce if used. It is the ONLY switched 12V in the engine bay

START: This is hot only in the start position, and feeds to the starter relay to activate it and then the relay activates the starter solenoid. It is also part of the neutral start circuit. The second small terminal of the start relay needs to be grounded, and that goes down to the center terminal on the neutral/ reverse light switch on the automatic. On stick cars 70/ later, it goes to the clutch safety switch

 

[Big_John]

Ign 1 and Acc terminals should have power with the key on. Correct?


ACC---hot in "run" position or "accessory" position.

IGN1--the "run" terminal, hot ONLY in "run" position, DEAD in start!! THIS is what feeds alternator field (on 70/ later), The VR, the ignition system, electric chokce if used. It is the ONLY switched 12V in the engine bay

START: This is hot only in the start position, and feeds to the starter relay to activate it and then the relay activates the starter solenoid. It is also part of the neutral start circuit. The second small terminal of the start relay needs to be grounded, and that goes down to the center terminal on the neutral/ reverse light switch on the automatic. On stick cars 70/ later, it goes to the clutch safety switch

There are 4 terminals on a starter relay.

B is direct to battery and hot all the time.
G is the NSS
S goes to the solenoid on the starter and is only hot when the relay is engaged
I goes to the ignition and is only hot when key is twisted to "start".

I don't see where it's getting any switched power.

 

[Toolmanmike]

There are 4 terminals on a starter relay.

B is direct to battery and hot all the time.
G is the NSS
S goes to the solenoid on the starter and is only hot when the relay is engaged
I goes to the ignition and is only hot when key is twisted to "start".

I don't see where it's getting any switched power.


View attachment 749649

I bet the guy I quoted was talking about the ignition switch. That would make sense.