jcslocum
Member
The ‘66 Fury III has spent some time in the shop of late and I figure I owe an update. It started with getting the car on the lift for the first time. 3weeks ago was the 1st time, really! It was overheating at the end of last year, so it sat for the winter and then the master cylinder failed when I woke it up this past spring. So it sat some more looking lonely and forgotten. I figured the overheating might be a head gasket, so ignored it for the summer. We finally pulled it onto the shop (no brakes) and put it up. This elevated moment showed us that the cheap emergency rubber freeze plug had partially blown out.
So maybe it isn't a bad head gasket! Fill him up with water and begin the pressure test process. I first pumped it up with a pressure tester and when it didn’t leak, I fired it up and backed it out to let some heat build and see if that might show some water loss. All was well after idling for 30 minutes, so that problem has been sorted temporarily. I have the right sized brass freeze plugs in stock, so will make the change before I need to put in antifreeze.
While sitting outside for a few hours, I went to put him back in, the starter was stuck! Wouldn’t turn over, not a little bit, so I had to order a new and improved starter. The trick setup (so I’m told) is a starter Dakota pickup from 1995. Not only is it more powerful but it’s also cheaper than a rebuilt for the stock 318. Another Benny is that it’s much smaller and fits easily for may applications, including headers on a hemi. Wait 2 days, push Nick into the shop with Angie and yank the old starter. It’s a huge heavy beast of a starter and a little tricky to get out. Stab new starter in after doing some scraping and cleaning of heavy grunge all was finished.
Napa was the only place that has a MC rebuild kit. No new MCs readily available. 4 days and the new kit is in at the local Napa and off to the shop to rebuild. Some usual previous owner Shite to get the old one out and the seals are shot. New kit in after a quick hone and some nice new paint, install and correct PO screw ups and I’m ready to bleed. Go to the furthest wheel cylinder in the rear. These are the smallest bleeder I can remember. The hex size is 1/4”. I try to use my vacuum bleeder with limited success and find that the left front wheel, the bleeder is broken off . So, order some new wheel cylinders. Wait 4 days and begin to work on this problem. No problem replacing the front cylinder and find that the rear brakes need replacing, order new brake shoes. While waiting for the shoes to arrive, the new wheels and tires arrive. They are wide and fat! But back to the brakes. All new cylinders and now new shoes installed in the rear.
New thick shoes
Why so many bits to work 2 brakes shoes!
The tires were mounted by hand except for the front. Jegs shipped the wrong wheel stud pattern for those. The rears were a bit of work to get mounted but I pressed on and got them done.
Just enough clearance! 275/60-15 on 10” wide wheels.
The front will be 255/60-15 on 8” wide wheels.
That’s all for tonight.
Jon Slocum
So maybe it isn't a bad head gasket! Fill him up with water and begin the pressure test process. I first pumped it up with a pressure tester and when it didn’t leak, I fired it up and backed it out to let some heat build and see if that might show some water loss. All was well after idling for 30 minutes, so that problem has been sorted temporarily. I have the right sized brass freeze plugs in stock, so will make the change before I need to put in antifreeze.
While sitting outside for a few hours, I went to put him back in, the starter was stuck! Wouldn’t turn over, not a little bit, so I had to order a new and improved starter. The trick setup (so I’m told) is a starter Dakota pickup from 1995. Not only is it more powerful but it’s also cheaper than a rebuilt for the stock 318. Another Benny is that it’s much smaller and fits easily for may applications, including headers on a hemi. Wait 2 days, push Nick into the shop with Angie and yank the old starter. It’s a huge heavy beast of a starter and a little tricky to get out. Stab new starter in after doing some scraping and cleaning of heavy grunge all was finished.
Napa was the only place that has a MC rebuild kit. No new MCs readily available. 4 days and the new kit is in at the local Napa and off to the shop to rebuild. Some usual previous owner Shite to get the old one out and the seals are shot. New kit in after a quick hone and some nice new paint, install and correct PO screw ups and I’m ready to bleed. Go to the furthest wheel cylinder in the rear. These are the smallest bleeder I can remember. The hex size is 1/4”. I try to use my vacuum bleeder with limited success and find that the left front wheel, the bleeder is broken off . So, order some new wheel cylinders. Wait 4 days and begin to work on this problem. No problem replacing the front cylinder and find that the rear brakes need replacing, order new brake shoes. While waiting for the shoes to arrive, the new wheels and tires arrive. They are wide and fat! But back to the brakes. All new cylinders and now new shoes installed in the rear.
New thick shoes
Why so many bits to work 2 brakes shoes!
The tires were mounted by hand except for the front. Jegs shipped the wrong wheel stud pattern for those. The rears were a bit of work to get mounted but I pressed on and got them done.
Just enough clearance! 275/60-15 on 10” wide wheels.
The front will be 255/60-15 on 8” wide wheels.
That’s all for tonight.
Jon Slocum
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