Oil filter question

Imperial dude

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I changed the oil in my 64 Imperial recently
I looked for a purolator filter, because that's what the FSM recommended, but couldn't find one, and bought a NAPA brand
Since then I can hear lifters tick for a few seconds after a cold start up
If I'm right, some filters have a check valve to keep oil from draining down, others do not
Could the oil filter be the cause of the tick on start up? And what filter do you recommend?
It didn't do it, or at least not as bad, before I changed the oil
Using a conventional 10w 30 oil, not too sure about the zinc content
 
I always use Purolators, and of their 3 filters for 440s, I have tried two and both have worked beautifully with no engine noise. I am surprised that you could not find one, usually Advance has quite a few. I also used a K&N for a short period which worked pretty well, but I had to replace it because it was too long and occasionally contacted the power steering belt.
Hope this helps,
77newyorker440
 
I changed the oil in my 64 Imperial recently
I looked for a purolator filter, because that's what the FSM recommended, but couldn't find one, and bought a NAPA brand
Since then I can hear lifters tick for a few seconds after a cold start up
If I'm right, some filters have a check valve to keep oil from draining down, others do not
Could the oil filter be the cause of the tick on start up? And what filter do you recommend?
It didn't do it, or at least not as bad, before I changed the oil
Using a conventional 10w 30 oil, not too sure about the zinc content
NAPA has 2 filters. A "silver line" and a "gold line". The gold is made by Wix and is about the best on the market according to the tests I've read. I'm not sure who makes the silver (cheaper) version.

There's also 2 lengths of filters and if the NAPA guy will probably give you the short version. The long version is part #51515 and is what the car originally used. The shorter version was for later small blocks that needed clearance around exhaust (IRRC).

It's my understanding that the Purolator isn't as good as it was when the FSM was written, but that could be wrong. Stay away from Fram, although some say they have upped their game... I don't know... Too much bad press for me to try one when the Wix is good.
 
PER1 was the Purolator #...

Wow... That was going back to when my uncle had the parts warehouse and we got our stuff from him. I was a kid then... Just remembered the number for some reason.
 
I just looked it up and the new Purolator number is PL3001 for their Purolator One filter. L3001 for their regular filter.

That looks like the long filter.

I had to know...
 
I always use Purolators, and of their 3 filters for 440s, I have tried two and both have worked beautifully with no engine noise. I am surprised that you could not find one, usually Advance has quite a few. I also used a K&N for a short period which worked pretty well, but I had to replace it because it was too long and occasionally contacted the power steering belt.
Hope this helps,
77newyorker440

might have to do with COVID shortages or Texas, but I couldn't find one anywhere here
I'm a painter, and paint, caulking and drywall finishing compound are in short supply right now
Last commercial job the drywallers finished with taping compound, and if you know drywall, well that ain't good
 
NAPA has 2 filters. A "silver line" and a "gold line". The gold is made by Wix and is about the best on the market according to the tests I've read. I'm not sure who makes the silver (cheaper) version.

There's also 2 lengths of filters and if the NAPA guy will probably give you the short version. The long version is part #51515 and is what the car originally used. The shorter version was for later small blocks that needed clearance around exhaust (IRRC).

It's my understanding that the Purolator isn't as good as it was when the FSM was written, but that could be wrong. Stay away from Fram, although some say they have upped their game... I don't know... Too much bad press for me to try one when the Wix is good.

ill check tomorrow, but pretty sure it's a gold, probably a short one
Could it be the oil? I understand that zinc is VERY IMPORTANT for tappet and cam life
When I bought the filter I also bought valvoline synthetic racing oil with zinc additive, but read a lot of conflicting stories about the use of synthetic oil especially in an older engine and decided not to use it, and used the exchanges oil instead, I asked if it had zinc in it but he didn't know
I see a company makes oil just for vintage vehicles, is that the way to go?
I want to take good care of her, I always put lead additive and octane booster every time I fill up
 
For decades, we always used the Ford Motorcraft FL1A oil filter, which is the orig long filter. The "short filter" started on B/RB when they had to use an air pump in the middle 1970s or so. Where they moved the power steering pump outboard, the belt to run it would have cut that long filter in half, hence the shorter one. There probably were some shorter LA filters, but with the MP adapter, the long filter would fit on the LA motors.

The FL1A Motorcraft filter is everywhere, even WalMart. That way, you get the current OEM-spec filter media. Purolator used to be a good filter, but I believe the Wix has been a better alternative since the 1980s? On the other hand, I suspect that almost any current filter will be as good as the OEM filters of the 1960s.

If the oil pump might be a bit weak, it can take a bit longer for the oil to circulate through the filter on start-up. Everybody wants an oil filter that filters everything, but the closer you get to "everything", the more restrictive the filter media might get, I suspect.

Considering how the B/RB filter mounts horizontally, I suspect that an oil drainback valve/flap might do any good. Usually see those on filters which were designed for an engine with a vertical mount?

Might try some 5W30 oil and see if the ticks diminish?

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
I remember years ago Consumer Reports did a "scientific" test of oil filters and the Mopar brand filter came out #1. This was probably back in the '80s. I never forgot that because I was a Mopar guy even back then. It was followed by Motorcraft, AC Delco, and Fram. I don't remember where Wix was on the list, but I'm pretty sure Purolator was last (worst). Back around this time I usually used Lee filters because you could buy them for 99 cents!
 
When I bought the filter I also bought valvoline synthetic racing oil with zinc additive, but read a lot of conflicting stories about the use of synthetic oil especially in an older engine and decided not to use it

They also have Valvoline VR-1 conventional racing oil with zinc. That's what I use. 10w30.
 
Quite a few years ago, when the intrawebs was kind of new, there was a study done by a guy in his garage. He was building 2.2 Mopar engines (IIRC) and he tore apart every oil filter known to man. This was where the Fram was junk/ Wix is awesome mantra came from.

What I learned from that study was that a lot of the filters were obviously the same and came out of the same factories, just had different paint and markings. Sounds kinda like car batteries and, as I found out once, laundry detergent. Just really a few places making filters, but a lot of filter "brands" out there.

That study was updated at least once with pretty much the same results.

Since then, there's been all sorts of similar studies on filters and I've casually looked at a few. What I've noticed is that many of the brands have changed their corporate owners, many becoming part of some global mega brand that owns everything including their competition. For example, Purolator is now owned (2014) by Mann and Hummel, a German company. They also now own Wix (2016). Fram was part of Allied Signal and Honeywell, but now is a separate company combined with Autolite spark plugs.

So, google it and you'll find a dozen or more studies, some current and possibly relevant, and some old and possibly now meaningless.

Bottom line for me is that I stay with a line of brand name filters, made in the USA, owned by a company that specializes in filtration. I don't think I can go too far wrong... But then again, guys run the cheapest filters and oil they find at Walmart and as long as they change it regularly, they drive their cars forever.
 
That oil filter research was done by Dempsey Bowling., who did the cut-up analysis during his college years, in his dorm room, as I recall. I found it on the online (Yahoo! ?) group "Shelby Dodges and Turbo Chryslers", or similar. It was quite revealing, even found the famous-brand Frams used cardboard for their media end caps, which shook the car world, by observation. The high-pressure relief valves were usually flat springs, as others were coil springs (coil springs deemed to be better and more consistentg). There was no mention of the media, just construction and such. Some brands used a silicone rubber drainback flap as others used a lesser grade of rubber. He had pictures of all of these things on the website, too.

Later, "Auto-X" magazine did a filter comparison using the FL1A filter application. In that test, Wix suddenly came out the best as to construction, including the coil spring blow-off valve item.

From reading about oil filter specs and tests on www.bobistheoilguy.com, there can be some large variations in the quality of the filter media, as to just how far down in size the medial will catch. Seems like the methods used to test these things might be a bit questionable, too! But it can be a big balancing act of sorts. The finer particles that get stopped also mean more flow restriction, very possibly. Which means that when the flow restrictions happen, especiallhy on a cold engine with thicker oil, the more oil that will bypass the filter media as a result, due to the internal blow-off valve sending the unfiltered oil back into the system. Eventually, though, as the oil warms and rpm/flow decreases, most of the oil will go through the oil filter. The sizes of the grit that does pass through the filter can be a big balancing act. With the viscosity of the motor oil in the mix, too, as is "engine sealing to the outside world".

By observation, almost all of the old-line car repair/maintenance brands that were their own company back in the 1950s (earlier and later) are now a part of TWO (maybe three) large holding companies. Not unlike Holley becoming a "one-stop shop" for hot rod parts, seemingly over the past decade. Holley is not just about carburetors any more. As other smaller North American brands have surfaced that might be better than the old-line brands might now be.

In this part of the world, down here in DFW, TX, all of the service stations stocked either the Fram or Ford-branded (FL1A) filters. Purolator was a the auto supplies, usually, and well-thought-of back then, having been a dominant oil filter brand from the early days of autodom. The Exxon guy we ended up using in the 1970s (after our Gulf/Chevron guy sold his stations) was a Ford guy and kept the Motorcraft filters for Ford applications in stock, so as they also fit Chryslers, that's how we got in with that. Seems that others did the same, too, as I found out years later from others in our Mopar Club.

Personally, knowing that an OEM-spec part meets the OEM's minimum spec, at the least cost, I might trust their brands a bit farther than some private brand, with the name brand private company parts being next in line . . . UNLESS I'd found something better than the OEM item (quality-wise, including cost, or a better place to buy them).

Only thing is that we never know how well an oil filter or motor oil might work until the engine is torn down for rebuild, years later, after the fact. Until that time, everybody makes the best decision for their region/area of the nation as to what to use.

Zinc in motor oil? That's another issue.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
NAPA has 2 filters. A "silver line" and a "gold line". The gold is made by Wix and is about the best on the market according to the tests I've read. I'm not sure who makes the silver (cheaper) version.

There's also 2 lengths of filters and if the NAPA guy will probably give you the short version. The long version is part #51515 and is what the car originally used. The shorter version was for later small blocks that needed clearance around exhaust (IRRC).

It's my understanding that the Purolator isn't as good as it was when the FSM was written, but that could be wrong. Stay away from Fram, although some say they have upped their game... I don't know... Too much bad press for me to try one when the Wix is good.
I usually use Amsoil filters. Donaldson, Wix and Hastings in that order.
If I am in a pinch, Napa Gold.
 
I changed the oil in my 64 Imperial recently
I looked for a purolator filter, because that's what the FSM recommended, but couldn't find one, and bought a NAPA brand
Since then I can hear lifters tick for a few seconds after a cold start up
If I'm right, some filters have a check valve to keep oil from draining down, others do not
Could the oil filter be the cause of the tick on start up? And what filter do you recommend?
It didn't do it, or at least not as bad, before I changed the oil
Using a conventional 10w 30 oil, not too sure about the zinc content

How many miles do you have on your 413 engine? And what is the climate like where you live? Ohio is probably not too different from Maryland where I live. I think your choice of oil is a little light as regards weight. In my 440s, I run Penn Grade 15W-40, and I use NAPA gold filters. Sounds like you got the right filter, but your choice of a conventional oil is not a good idea. Penn Grade has a high zinc content, which you need in that flat tappet 413. I get my Penn Grade oil from Summit. You can also get a WIX filter from them too (WIX makes the NAPA Gold filter for NAPA). I get no lifter ticking from my 440s.
 
The subject of oil filters always kills me. The only oil filter I would NEVER use is Amsoil. They have a tendency to "overfilter", clog and can starve an engine of oil, especially an older hi mileage engine.
If a good quality oil is used and changed on a regular schedule than any name brand is a good choice. Any Pennsylvania based oil is good. A HI- mileage oil is a good idea too.
There is no "VoDo" on Fram filters. Fake news.....! Fram is my filter of choice. I've been changing oil since the early 60's, never had one fail. (I did have a Puralator blow apart once), due to a defective crimp on the can, I think). I have seen some others fail also. Having had a career in professional racing, (drag racing and circuit track), the primary oil filter used was Fram.

Bottom line.... Price shop, good quality oil and regular oil changes.
 
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The subject of oil filters always kills me. The only oil filter I would NEVER use is Amsoil. They have a tendency to "overfilter", clog and can starve an engine of oil, especially an older hi mileage engine.
If a good quality oil is used and changed on a regular schedule than any name brand is a good choice. Any Pennsylvania based oil is good. A HI- mileage oil is a good idea too.
There is no "VoDo" on Fram filters. Fake news.....! Fram is my filter of choice. I've been changing oil since the early 60's, never had one fail. (I did have a Puralator blow apart once), due to a defective crimp on the can, I thing). I have seen some others fail also. Having had a career in professional racing, (drag racing and circuit track), the primary oil filter used was Fram.

Bottom line.... Price shop, good quality oil and regular oil changes.

Wil: You know how I feel about Fram filters. . . Just sayin. . .
 
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