No spark issue

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Hi everyone. I am having a weird difficult time trying to figure out what is causing no spark. Recently drove my car Tuesday after switching back to carb car idled great left the driveway got a couple of feet and it cut out started right back drove it for 10mins it cut out again and started right back up again turned around to head home and cut out 3 blocks away and wouldn’t start back up again im running the edlebrock 800cfm avs2, tsp pro billet distributor, changed the coil out for a new one along with ballast resistor, new spark plugs and new Taylor spark plug wires, along with new painless wiring harness, new alternator and starter along with starter relay
 
Hi everyone. I am having a weird difficult time trying to figure out what is causing no spark. Recently drove my car Tuesday after switching back to carb car idled great left the driveway got a couple of feet and it cut out started right back drove it for 10mins it cut out again and started right back up again turned around to head home and cut out 3 blocks away and wouldn’t start back up again im running the edlebrock 800cfm avs2, tsp pro billet distributor, changed the coil out for a new one along with ballast resistor, new spark plugs and new Taylor spark plug wires, along with new painless wiring harness, new alternator and starter along with starter relay[/QUOTE

Sounds like your magnetic pickup module is failing. Usually they will short out after the engine warms up and the spark goes away. After the unit cools off, the short stops for a while and the engine will again start. The next time the car quits, grab a volt meter and disconnect the lead from the distributor to the coil. Run a continuity check from that lead to a good ground. The circuit should complete and "pulse" as the engine is cranked. If you get nothing, the pickup unit is bad. The magnetic pickup supplies the ground to fire the coil each time one of the reluctor points passes the pickup unit. You might also check to be sure the pickup unit is tight as if it is loose, the air gap will have moved and disabled the unit.

Dave
 
You have a big wad of keys hanging off your ignition key? Is it original? Could be worn and intermittent. Would be an easy fix and one thing you didn't mention you replaced.
 
Should I replace that too just to eliminate the possibilities

No but check it over was my thought. Wiggle the key while it's running ,check contacts etc to try and replicate it in your driveway. I only mention it cause it starts right up after it dies. The professors will be here soon and I look forward to what they say.
 
It won't start so he can't check it while the engine is running.
Time to see if the coil is making spark, if there is spark at the points and then at the plugs. Check for breaks in the wires and also the bulkhead connector.
Good luck.
 
I have a brand new distributor same one in the box shipper sent 2 by accident

Just because it is brand new does not mean it can't be defective, especially if the manufacturer used ChiCom electronics. According to the technical specs provided by the manufacturer, you should not need a ballast resistor for most TSP distributors. If you have the installation instructions, read them carefully to see if you unit needs the ballast resistor. Also, if you are still having problems, have you tried switching to the other distributor? If the car does the same thing with both distributors, you probably have an issue in the wiring someplace. Start by checking the bulkhead connector for corrosion.

Dave
 
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Just because it is brand new does not mean it can't be defective, especially if the manufacturer used ChiCom electronics. According to the technical specs provided by the manufacturer, you should not need a ballast resistor for most TSP distributors. If you have the installation instructions, read them carefully to see if you unit needs the ballast resistor. Also, if you are still having problems, have you tried switching to the other distributor? If the car does the same thing with both distributors, you probably have an issue in the wiring someplace. Start by checking the bulkhead connector for corrosion.

Dave
Guess I’ll try the other new one next week but the entire wiring has been redone it was done 4 months ago and the painless wiring harness removes a bulkhead for fuses
 
It won't start so he can't check it while the engine is running.
Time to see if the coil is making spark, if there is spark at the points and then at the plugs. Check for breaks in the wires and also the bulkhead connector.
Good luck.
Coil wasn’t making spark so I replaced it with a new one still no go
 
Obviously many things can give the same symptoms. Four years ago my ballast resistor had a small break in the coil spring, just a nick. It caused similar symptoms.
Five years ago my ECU did the same thing. I learned from that lesson this year when my ECU did the same thing but in a different car. I am not a diagnostician, especially with electrical stuff. Educated guesses have gotten me through this far.
 
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"Continuity" checks, rather than "resistance" checks?
 
Me thinks you need a set of these...

DIAGNOSTIC.DICE.jpg


.
 
I want them! Would have saved me money instead of throwing parts at issues!
 
Most likely not the case, but...

I once replaced all the plugs dist cap etc on my 350. On the way to work one day it started loosing power and eventually stopped, and no way was it going to start.
Long story short,
The rotor had come loose and taken out the contacts inside the dist cap without breaking anything else.
I have never in my life seen or heard of this happening.
May be work a check
 
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