I think you will find that the wire is not "coat hanger" but rather stiffener wire for the sand core when block was poured...
Personally, I tend to concur with that statement. Can't understand why somebody would take the time and EFFORT to put coat hanger wire in a water jacket, for any reason. BTAIM
Before you put everything back together (as in install the front cover and valley pan and valve covers, douse everything with motor oil and/or assembly lube. It used to be recommended to pour two pint cans of the old GM EOS over the cam and lifters to have some possibly thick-film lube before the crank slings oil onto the camshaft lobes. Of course, hopefully the cam lobes have the black moly lube paste on them, as do the pushrod ends, rocker arm ends, and something on the rocker shaft. Can't forget the cam sprockets and chain, which also usually only get splash lubrication, either. Especially on the cam sproket thrust surface against the cyl block. Basically, everything which does not have specific pressure lube going to it.
Do pre-lube the engine before initial start-up. Via the oil pump being turned by a strong drill motor.
In any build, the orientation to improve what "stock" was can always be prevalent, which is somewhat normal. Nothing wrong with that, except that in some cases, "better than stock" can result in unnecessary money spent for very little real benefit, in the long run. One area is the oil pump. When I did my Camaro motor, I opted for a HV pump but with normal pressure rather than higher-pressure. Knowing that the higher volume trying to go through the oil passages, in itself, can increase oil pressure a bit on its own. Also being cognizant that the oil pump is one of the horsepower hogs of any motor, too. More pressure, less power to the flywheel.
On a "green" new block, the OEM procedures on new car engines, with the 500 miles of hot/cold cycles, allows the block to cure and everything become friendly. On a seasoned block, once the machining is done, it stays where it is. Which leaves the piston walls/rings as the main consideration of things which "get friendly" with each other, with the main bearings being next in line in importance. Other than the camshaft and such on soon-after-starting!
The other thing to consider, related to a new OEM engine is that by the time the engine gets to the assembly plant, it has already done its basic run-in and QC checks at the engine plant, so it's already done that initial 30 minutes on an instrumented engine test stand. 30 minutes of 2000rpm+, with rpm variations to sling oil to all parts of the underside of the camshaft area, before it is allowed to idle. Things which need to be replicated "in the field" for any engine rebuild which includes a new camshaft. FWIW.
Once that 30 minutes is done, then it's time to recheck the initial ignition timing, tweak the carb for idle speed and mixture, then take it for a cautious drive. Several cycles of easy acceleration to see how everything responds to throttle, noting anything which might need further attention/tuning. Easy acceleration followed by decelleration, which hits both sides of the thrust bearing, plus resulting in higher intake manifold vacuum which might tend to pull some oil up to the top of the ring package, for good measure, possibly. Then some moderate acceleration/decel cycles up to about 50mph or so. As things progress, maybe a 3/4 throttle punch, too? Key thing is to not force the engine to WOT too quickly, but only after some miles have been put on it, letting the internals become more friendly with each other before max power is requested of them. You can probably tell when that happens, too.
The many oil changes can be personal prefference, to me. Personally, I'd rather leave the initial oil in the engine a bit longer, with all of the anti-wear additives at work longer. IF a reasonable amount of care was taken to keep things clean and such during the build, then things might go a bit longer before the first oil change, to me. But if the build area was not completely clean and dust-free, the first oil change might be done a bit sooner. If the factory recommended the first oil change at 3000 miles, on a new engine, with a new oil filter, than can work, too, by observation, relying on the OEM-quality oil filter to pick-up any small debris which might be flushed out by the oil. On that note, after that first run-in, replace the oil filter, too.
One other resource might be the engine builder! Which could well be "After the first cam break-in time, drive it "normally" . . . Change the oil and filter . . . And take care of it."
During all of this time, pay special attention to how the engine sounds (normal and not-normal sounds/noises) and reacts. IF there are any concerns, stop as soon as possible and check it out.
Enjoy!
CBODY67