1966 Fury III - Unfinished Project

[Philip Andrews]

I took a look at the video I shot earlier and repeatedly the engine will stop in the same place, quite abruptly.
Battery's on slow charge overnight, I'll check the power valve in the carb tomorrow because no matter the float height setting the fuel just comes pouring out the main jets.

 

[Philip Andrews]

Did a little testing and determined the spark isn't actually going where the rotor button is pointed, rather it's going just where the heck it pleases.
New parts ordered, we shall see how that works.
Today the carb decided the vac secondary jets were gonna pour fuel.
I'm close to taking that carb and sending it into orbit.

Phil

 

[Philip Andrews]

For those of you with morbid curiosity, I ran the compression figures on the engine this afternoon.
Not wonderful but better than I thought they'd be.
Also widened the plug gaps to 45 thou' because the Internet says that's where they should be to reduce tracking inside the cap (seems bass-ackward to me because that just serves to boost the peak voltage) but oddly it did help a little. Still gouts of flame but it barked a few times and almost kept itself running.
Progress is progress.

 

[Philip Andrews]

After the Holley carburetor decided it wasn't going to play ball, I went look for the original Mopar 2BBL manifold.

It sat in rainwater for a while but should clean up ok.

I also had the Carter BBD from it, so decided to see if it was any more good.

The title of this is "how not to use RTV sealant". There's a couple pieces missing from the enrichment pump but otherwise internally it looks ok.
I went looking for the parts list and discovered that the BBD and WCD are in the same family- my Pontiac is fitted with a WCD so I went pull my spare carb and took a look to see if it could be used.

Yup. That'll be the "economy" 2BBL configuration, then...

 

[Philip Andrews]

I put the BBD back together. Discovered someone had installed the lower gasket upside down and backwards. Hence the RTV, it must have been pouring out fuel.

Remember kids, if it's too complicated go ask an adult.

 

[Ripinator]

Following this with interest!

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

 

[Philip Andrews]

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Hey hey hey!!

 

[Philip Andrews]

Tweaked it a little tonight, it'll start and idle just from a flick of the starter. That isn't too bad.


Intake gaskets leak and the choke does not set itself off because its not set up for it on this carb, but I'll buy that for a dollar.

 

[Philip Andrews]

Went rummage in the boxes of parts to see if I had the gearbox linkages with the car. I do not, sadly. That's on the shopping list.
I did however find the door lockset.

Those are soaking in oil to try free them up.

Found also the screen wash pump.

Predictably, it was full of dirt and locked up solid.

Some gentle persuasion later and it pumps again. One less thing to have to buy.

Phil

 

[Philip Andrews]

A question for all y'all gurus out there.

What's the model designator for this transmission? There's a few numbers stamped in below the selectors but they don't seem to make much sense to me.

Mostly so I can pull up spares.

Thanks

 

[LocuMob]

A question for all y'all gurus out there.

View attachment 552850
View attachment 552851

What's the model designator for this transmission? There's a few numbers stamped in below the selectors but they don't seem to make much sense to me.

Mostly so I can pull up spares.

Thanks

It's a 727. '66 version has a different input shaft than later years, and convertors won't fit between the two. The dipstick tube is held on my a bolt, vs later years that have a better fit and no bolt. Both are held in place with the bracket that attaches to the housing of the transmission.

 

[Philip Andrews]

727, thank you kindly. That's very helpful.

 

[Philip Andrews]

New headlight switch arrived, and the replacement knob I have for it works beautifully.
Also bought a 2lb spool of .8 flux core wire for my welder, and a new self-darkening welding hat because working with the old green glass one I have is quite difficult in the sunshine.

Was also looking at the design of the lower door hinges. Mine are both missing the spring and roller; the doors are sufficiently heavy that they want to close themselves on you as you work around them, which is awkward. I'm going to go get some 1/2" round bar, a couple roll pins and some springs and get them back to correct working order.
Seems to be a bad design applying all that twisting force to a roll pin, little wonder they failed.

 

[Philip Andrews]

Welded up the turn signal switch and added a bit of metal back to the end of the detent on the gearshift.
Hopefully that improves the selector.

Phil

 

[Philip Andrews]

I had found a post on here about door hinges. Both mine are missing the spring and roller mechanism (but the arm is still present).

I bought a couple of 2" long 3/16" spacer pins, a 1/2" long shank bolt and a couple of 3/4 x 2 x 0.105 15lb springs.
I'm going to cut the bolt down, drill the center out and fit it, greased as the roller, and the spring to hold the arm in. I'll let y'all know how that goes.

Question, though. Do the "rollers" actually roll on the pin, or do they just slide over the spring arm?

 

[Philip Andrews]

Opted for it to be a snug fit.

Drilled out and cut to length.

Fitted in place, and the spring, one end bent through 90° fitted on.

Works nicely. Greased everything up and the action is really very good now.

Phil

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Nicely done - I need to improve the action on the one for my driver's door - a passing butterfly will close the door now...

 

[Philip Andrews]

Nicely done - I need to improve the action on the one for my driver's door - a passing butterfly will close the door now...

Yeah. Mine kept closing on me as I was trying to work on it so I decided it needed to be fixed.
This would be much easier if I had a lathe, but that was accomplished with hand tools and a vise.