1966 Fury III - Unfinished Project

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20220831_192108.jpg

It sure did. Reassembled, ready to test tomorrow. I've got a new transmission mount to go in, I'll pull the intake and distributor off and hoist it in if tomorrow allows (took a vacation day).

Phil
 
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Checked to see that I had reassembled the engine correctly. Sounds ok. One cylinder is still a bit low compression but it's still firing on all 8.
 
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I really cannot tell due to the strata of paint on the engine- what color would it have originally been painted?

Chrysler pale blue?
 
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Also, I trued fitting the exhaust manifolds.
Correct engine fitment but wrong body.

These foul on the steering and torque beams.

Does anyone have a working combination of headers that fit a 318 with wedge heads, to sit correct in a C body?
 
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Somebody (a mechanic, no less) decided this was safe to drive.

20220904_154634.jpg

The reaction tube was loosely held in place with two bolts. I need to get the other 8 and fit them back in.
20220904_163836.jpg

The reaction tube was bent. Unsure why, so I straightened it back out.
20220904_170718.jpg

It's back in with the two bolts but I'll have to see if putting the weight of the car on it will push the outer arms back into line. It's been sat with that undone for a while.
Got the transmission mount in though.


Phil
 

John Kirby

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I'm not aiming for longevity in this case, the engine is too far gone for that.
Just enough to get it going.

Also, hot on the heels of another thread, can anyone tell me a bit more than I already know about the way my car left the factory?
View attachment 551057
Thanks

Phil
PH23: Plymouth, High Price Class, 2 dr hardtop
H5B means: High Trim Grade, bench, vinyl seat, Blue trim
41 means 318 2bbl poly engine
C5: TorqueFlite Auto Transmission
column G: 26" radiator Yoke
Column R: Radio, AM music master economy
Column S; Heater, Air Conditioning with heater
 
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Bought some new grade 8 bolts and fixed the reaction tube in place.
20220906_112818.jpg

In adjusting the position slightly, I liberated some history.
20220906_112835.jpg

Yup, definitely a Mississippi car. Yellow Mississippi clay all fell out.
 

John Kirby

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How did you get the trans mount to line up so you could install the bolts? My car has had the same issue for a long time.
 
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How did you get the trans mount to line up so you could install the bolts? My car has had the same issue for a long time.
Having the correct bolts really helps- with the taper thread that'll catch and pull themselves into line. Mine are just regular grade 8 bolts and washers.

½" dia, ¾" head, 13tpi and 1¼" long. (Listed as 1/2-13 1-1/4 GD8 at the store where I bought them, in case you too are missing any).
They're a bit too long even with the washers but 1" bolts would be too short. Nothing fouls anything else from what I can see.

Support the gearbox up away from the mount.
Grease or oil the mating faces of the beam and recievers. The beam must slide easily.
20220906_204234.jpg


1. I loosely fitted the center two on the left, that gave a pivot point.
2. Push up on the other side with a jack.
3. Insert other inner bolts.

That leaves it sitting with the lower bolt holes splayed out.

4. Jack up on the outer edge.
5. Fit bolts, then the other side the same method (6, 7).
After that fit the two vertical ones up inside tightly, and then tighten down the rest. Do not use the vertically mounted ones to pull it into line. All it does it stretch the metal out of shape. Push it upwards with a jack. Just take care to not lift the car up off the stands!

Took about 30 minutes, working under the car.

Phil
 
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John Kirby

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Having the correct bolts really helps- with the taper thread that'll catch and pull themselves into line. Mine are just regular grade 8 bolts and washers.
Support the gearbox up away from the mount.
Grease or oil the mating faces of the beam and recievers. The beam must slide easily.
View attachment 556566

1. I loosely fitted the center two on the left, that gave a pivot point.
2. Push up on the other side with a jack.
3. Insert other inner bolts.

That leaves it sitting with the lower bolt holes splayed out.

4. Jack up on the outer edge.
5. Fit bolts, then the other side the same method (6, 7).
After that fit the two vertical ones up inside tightly, and then tighten down the rest. Do not use the vertically mounted ones to pull it into line. All it does it stretch the metal out of shape. Push it upwards with a jack. Just take care to not lift the car up off the stands!

Took about 30 minutes, working under the car.

Phil
Thanks, Another afternoon project.
 
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Le sigh.

I need to find the UJ cap and bolts for the rear end.

Edit: Nope, it's not in with the parts I have. Great.
A) does anybody have a spare they want to sell?
B) if not, I need to start scrapyard hunting; there's very little locally. Any other Chrysler vehicles used that particular pinion nose?
 
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Next question- did the 318 have a two or three row radiator as standard? I have two rads that fit. One is falling apart but is a 3-row, the other in better shape but only a 2-row.

Phil
 
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One of life's little mysteries was annoying me so I decided to fix it today because the weather's nice.
20220913_151110.jpg

Not entirely sure why this was done. We may never know.
20220913_172735.jpg

Zip pop crackle damnit crackle fizz.

It's not quite the right profile but it'll do. Ain't nobody gonna see it. It's all one piece again, at least.

Phil
 

LocuMob

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C2C (Current 2 Classics) makes some, but they are far from perfect. For the foot wells they should be alright, as they will be covered with carpet.
 
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