Goldie's heads finally completed after 15 months

Zymurgy

Old Man with a Hat
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I can't believe I let this go on this long, but he is supposed to be the best in the area. I did take your guys advice and have the 516 heads exhaust valves enlarged to 1.74 with hardened seats and valves.

I have started the process of the reinstallation and any advice for this novice would be appreciated. I have bought all new gaskets, retapped all the threads in the block and have picked up some assembly grease.

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They look great. And should work very very well.

See that small hole next to the big "L" cast into the head??? It's the oil passage up to the rocker stand. Clean all four of them out thoroughly. Many times if heads get swapped side for side, you could have oiling issues since the block only pumps oil into one on each head. Even baking the heads rarely cleans them out properly.
 
They look great. And should work very very well.

See that small hole next to the big "L" cast into the head??? It's the oil passage up to the rocker stand. Clean all four of them out thoroughly. Many times if heads get swapped side for side, you could have oiling issues since the block only pumps oil into one on each head. Even baking the heads rarely cleans them out properly.
Thanks that is exactly the kind of advice I am looking for, that isn't in the service manual.
 
They look great Mike! Did you get the valley pan gasket with the exhaust crossover blocked?
 
They look great Mike! Did you get the valley pan gasket with the exhaust crossover blocked?
Yes paid for it twice. I ordered it online back in March 2024 because it wasn't in stock. They delivered it to the NAPA machine shop. To make a long story short I couldn't find my receipt it was "in stock" so I paid for it again.
 
Yes paid for it twice. I ordered it online back in March 2024 because it wasn't in stock. They delivered it to the NAPA machine shop. To make a long story short I couldn't find my receipt it was "in stock" so I paid for it again.
:BangHead:
 
No worse than when I bought a pair of KONIs with their lifetime warranty. When I got them, I saved the box and put the receipt in the box. Years later, when I was going to use the warranty, I picked up the box. Still intact, but could use some tape. Inside was the receipt, but all shredded by a critter that didn't stay around. So much for that bright idea! All I could do was laugh. Should have not put it in plain sight on the floor! So I just ordered a new pair.

CBODY67
 
What head gaskets are you using? If you are using the modern style like fel-pro make sure you get the thinnest ones available because the stock steel shim gasket is much thinner that the fel-pro. If you are using the stock shim style I always use copper spray gasket sealer on both sides before installing them. If my memory is correct the stock shim is .018 compressed and the standard fel-pro is .038 or .042. I prefer the shim gasket unless you are planning on a power adder.
 
Even thou you cleaned the treads on the block check that the head bolts turn freely by hand. If they have any binding that will effect your torque readings. Also if you use any kind of sealer on the head bolts make sure you don't gob it on as it can go to the bottom of the head bolt holes and as the bolt threads in it can compress and effect torque readings.

Also did you have the heads milled? If so how much? I have seen heads milled far enough that the head bolt actually bottoms out in the block and is not compressing the head properly. If they were only milled .010 then don't worry about it. If they were milled over .020 I would place a .020 washer on the head bolts.

I have more tid bits but I don't know what all you have had done to the engine so I will refrain from going into them.

If you want to fill me in on all the details I can share more of my experience. Info I would need, pistons type, cam specs, head gasket type, bock milled, heads milled.....
 
Those heads look a bit "too nice to use", but that is good.

I concur on cleaning the oil passages, threads, and testing the cleaned bolt holes of debris so they work well with each other.

Yes, the OEM head gaskets when the engines were new was the .020" steel shim head gasket. We did not see the .040-.060" head gaskets until 10.0CR came to be an issue with available fuels. In one respect the original engines were spec'd for 97 Research Octane fuels. Which is close to what 93 Pump Octane Super Unleaded gas approximates today.

Still, though, I might suggest the Fel-Pro head gaskets which have the copper wire inside of the "fire ring" for sealing which is at least as good as the old copper wire in a groove cut into the block's deck surface for top fuel racers of back then. That copper wire replaced the head gasket, itself, as to cylinder sealing. Personally, I would aim for a better total seal of the cylinders to the cylinder head.

The other side of that conversation is that "IF it was good enough for back then, it should be good enough for today". Which is a valid point. As newer and better products have evolved from their need to be better.

For example, the steel shim breastplate intake manifold gasket is plenty good enough, BUT when I replaced the intake gasket as it seemed it had a bit of a vacuum leak, I found nothing, yet I put high-heat black silicone sealer in the stamped insets around the ports. When compressed, upon installation, the sealer compressed to make a more perfect seal. Which was obvious, to me, when I heard the engine run the first time. The OEM gasket itself might have been doing well, but my additions sounded like they helped a bit. Just MY experiences.

In one of the later Mopar Perf Race Manuals, on the subject of CR, they noted that it was better to run a lower compression ratio than to run the higher CR, which could need a spark timing calibration that was "Retarded from optimum" to do so. So . . . if the slightly thicker gasket can allow a few degrees more than stock as to initial timing, I'm good with that, for available fuels.

Of course, ELEVATION affects an engine's octane requirements. This means that what we got as Super Unleaded in DFW, at 92 Pump Octane, became 90 Pump Octane in Abilene, TX, for example, for the same-named product. So, geographical location can make a difference.

Your money. Your car. Your dreams. Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Perhaps "Nick's Garage" needs to do a "Back-to-Back" engine dyno test of a closed chamber head with .018" head gaskets and .060" modern head gaskets? Just like the ones he has done for HP exhaust manifolds vs his dyno headers, or various intake manifolds, in the past. Then WE could really know how much power might be being lost with the thicker head gaskets. Also doing a couple of runs to optimize the spark timing with each one, too?

Take care,
CBODY67
 
I am really close. Thanks for the advice. I have been really busy and only had a little time over the weekend and spent some time on her yesterday. I forgot to pick up some new spark plugs or I might have stayed late last night and tired to finish.

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It is all back together. The engine is much smoother and quieter without the burnt valves.

I ceramic coated the exhaust manifold. I got them back over a year ago. There was alot of white smoke when I started it the first time. If he mentioned this to me I had forgot. A quick Google search told me this was normal and only happened the first time.
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