Oil level curiosities

[Commando440]

Hello experts. I have a small issue and would like to run it by you all.
I am quite the amateur so please excuse any incorrect wording/terminology.
Recently got back into giving the old fury (68) some loving, after a year of sitting and done an oil change over the weekend.
Ran for 5minutes then drained until stopped dripping.
I wish i had, but i didnt check exactly how much fresh oil was in a part bottle that i had.. but i tipped that part bottle all in then checked and it was slightly over fill line.
Our australian bottles are 5L and 5qt=4.7L so i thought it would easily take the part bottle.
I started it to fill new filter and ive let it sit for a day and its still showing the same level, slightly over fill mark.
But it probably only took 4L max (4.2q).
Any ideas of what my issue may be?
It is a 383. 100% stock, i am pretty sure.
Im wondering if may be incorrect dipstick?
This is only second oil change ive done, i havnt had the car long. The first one, i obviously didnt pick this up.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Thanks

 

[1970FuryConv]

Personally, I would not worry about slightly over the fill line.
Usually, the 383 car will take 5 quarts including filling the oil filter.

 

[Commando440]

Personally, I would not worry about slightly over the fill line.
Usually, the 383 car will take 5 quarts including filling the oil filter.

Personally, I would not worry about slightly over the fill line.
Usually, the 383 car will take 5 quarts including filling the oil filter.

Hi thank you for the reply.
My concern was that it only took around 4Litres (4.2q) and was over filled. Wondering why this could be.

 

[Blusmbl]

I wouldn't worry about it either, and I also wouldn't check it until after you've run it. Even prefilling the oil filter, there is some volume that won't be taken up until the engine has run again.

 

[Boydsdodge]

I just did a few oil changes. The 73 NewYorker took 4 litres and a filter fill. The Imperial was the same. 67 Coronet Big Block took 5 litres and filter fill. When I have the 5 litre jug I fill one of my one litre jugs with the extra from jug and put in the trunk. That reminds me, @ayilar I think I gave Ming the extra oil from the Lucas jug I used on Tux, incase you were wondering why it wasn't green in the one litre Brad Penn bottle. My mix up.
On the filters, I have to say I am off the wix filters. I have been using wix for a very long time, but in the last while on all my v8s I have had the start up rattle and it was bothering me. I ordered a 6 pack of Mopar Performance filters from my Chrysler dealer when I found the price to be very reasonable, and since I have been using the Mopar filters I have not heard one disturbing sound from any of my V8s on start up. Very pleased with the purchase and will be buying a few more cases.

 

[Commando440]

Thanks alot for the replies and info. Appreciate it.

 

[CBODY67]

Do the Mopar Perf filters have an "anti-drainback valve" under the holes around the outer edge? That difference might be the reason for the start-up rattle? On some brands, it is black silicone and other brands use a red/orange silicone (which is easier to see).

Just curious,
CBODY67

 

[Boydsdodge]

Do the Mopar Perf filters have an "anti-drainback valve" under the holes around the outer edge? That difference might be the reason for the start-up rattle? On some brands, it is black silicone and other brands use a red/orange silicone (which is easier to see).

Just curious,
CBODY67

Wix were or are to be the top oil filter, maybe they have started using lesser materials. The wix has the silicone red anti drain back but it must not be doing the job. It was not just one filter, this was on my truck with 5.9, wagon with 400 and Imperial with 440. Now that I am using the Mopar filter, they are all quiet on start up.

 

[volksworld]

just a few dumb questions...long or short oil filter? and have you looked to check if your oil pan is dented? plenty of floorjacks have missed the xmember and jacked up the pan

 

[Big_John]

Hello experts. I have a small issue and would like to run it by you all.
I am quite the amateur so please excuse any incorrect wording/terminology.
Recently got back into giving the old fury (68) some loving, after a year of sitting and done an oil change over the weekend.
Ran for 5minutes then drained until stopped dripping.
I wish i had, but i didnt check exactly how much fresh oil was in a part bottle that i had.. but i tipped that part bottle all in then checked and it was slightly over fill line.
Our australian bottles are 5L and 5qt=4.7L so i thought it would easily take the part bottle.
I started it to fill new filter and ive let it sit for a day and its still showing the same level, slightly over fill mark.
But it probably only took 4L max (4.2q).
Any ideas of what my issue may be?
It is a 383. 100% stock, i am pretty sure.
Im wondering if may be incorrect dipstick?
This is only second oil change ive done, i havnt had the car long. The first one, i obviously didnt pick this up.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Thanks

Here's what you do.

Next time you change the oil and filter, put 4.7 liters of oil in the engine. If you want to partially fill the filter, that's fine. Just make it add up to 4.7 liters. Capacity of your engine is 4 quarts plus 1 quart for the filter.

Having done that, start and run the engine and after shutting it off, let it sit for at least a half hour. Now check the dipstick and see where it is. You could even remark it if it's off that far.

If it were me, I'd just dump the .3 liters in the engine and call it a day as it won't hurt a thing, but you could keep the next couple .3 liters and use them on your third oil change, but that's up to you.

And I have to do this....

And before anyone takes that too serious, it's a joke.

 

[CBODY67]

Here's a little different situation. When you change the oil, let the oil drip from the drain plug hole until it is just a little drip every so often. Then pour a quart of oil through the valve cover for a bit of a "flush". Let it get to the random drips situation, too.

Then put the drain plug back in and add 4 quarts of oil into the engine. Let it all drain down to the pan. Maybe for 20+ minutes, but the bulk of it should be there by 10 minutes, I suspect. THEN check the oil level on a clean dipstick. It should be right at the "ADD" mark. This will let you know where things are when it will need another quart of motor oil. Then add the rest of the oil and start the engine to run it to get the filter saturated with oil, probably about 15 minutes or so. Then turn the engine off and let it sit overnight, checking it against the "FULL" level the next morning.

Doing things this way, you can generate all of the DATA you will need to make further decisions with.

In the USA, it is common (at places like WalMart and similar) to find 5qt oil jugs (with oil in them, of course) which also have a clear rib on their side by the pouring spout. With cast-in markings for "quarts" and its metric equivalent. So you might get one of those jugs to use to put oil in your engine. Perhaps the same jugs are available in Canada?

When we got our '66 Newport Town Sedan (383 2bbl) when it had 7100 miles on it, our long-time friend at the local Gulf Station, who had worked around Chryslers for years at that time, cautioned about checking the oil level after an oil change. At that time, it was somewhat common knowledge that some Chrysler V-8s would "kick-out" the first quart quickly, but past that, the oil level would stay where it was after that. Ours did not do that, though.

In looking at some of the 1960-era S.A.E. spec sheets, I noticed that Chrysler B/RB V-8s were rated at 6 quarts (incl filter) for an oil change. I did some checking of oil pan part numbers and discovered they were the same as for the later engines that were rated for 5qt oil changes. Remembering that "kicking-out that first quart" comment made me wonder if they just lowered the rated oil capacity to get around that situation on the 413 engines? "Crankshaft windage" with the 3.75" stroke motors? At THIS point in time, the individuals who spoke of this situation can't be inquired to, for various reasons, leaving the whole thing to careful speculation and research. BTAIM

Please keep us posted on your progress,
CBODY67

 

[Commando440]

just a few dumb questions...long or short oil filter? and have you looked to check if your oil pan is dented? plenty of floorjacks have missed the xmember and jacked up the pan

Thanks, i will have a bit of a look

 

[Gerald Morris]

I just did a few oil changes. The 73 NewYorker took 4 litres and a filter fill. The Imperial was the same. 67 Coronet Big Block took 5 litres and filter fill. When I have the 5 litre jug I fill one of my one litre jugs with the extra from jug and put in the trunk. That reminds me, @ayilar I think I gave Ming the extra oil from the Lucas jug I used on Tux, incase you were wondering why it wasn't green in the one litre Brad Penn bottle. My mix up.
On the filters, I have to say I am off the wix filters. I have been using wix for a very long time, but in the last while on all my v8s I have had the start up rattle and it was bothering me. I ordered a 6 pack of Mopar Performance filters from my Chrysler dealer when I found the price to be very reasonable, and since I have been using the Mopar filters I have not heard one disturbing sound from any of my V8s on start up. Very pleased with the purchase and will be buying a few more cases.

I'm going to try one of those 4492890 filters, p'raps next oil change. I've been a Wix partisan for a long while myself, but I too have heard occasional start-up rattle, and a bit when revving between 1500-2500 rpm. I don't like such a tune at all. The start up rattle went away when I cranked the oil pressure up to about 65 psi on a cold start, and I don't get much of the rev rattle either, but ANY is too damned much. I want to replace this cam; having seen it a 3 yrs ago, but circumstances didn't permit that task then. If a given filter will permit more oil flow, yet still filter, then I'm all for it.

 

[57fury440]

I have an oil pan and pickup from a 1959 Chrysler on the 440 in my '57 Plymouth. It is different than the newer pans and it holds 5 quarts plus the filter. I don't know about the part numbers, but they are definitely different pans. You can see that the earlier pans are a larger capacity.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I have an oil pan and pickup from a 1959 Chrysler on the 440 in my '57 Plymouth. It is different than the newer pans and it holds 5 quarts plus the filter. I don't know about the part numbers, but they are definitely different pans. You can see that the earlier pans are a larger capacity.

Nice 4 U! I've pondered a higher capacity pan for any engine build I would do for mine. I see some after-market stuff from Milodon, 440 Source, Moroso et al. I have two C body pans from the mid 1960s for now, and if I don't find any compelling good deal on higher capacity, or reason for it, I likely will just re-use the one idle one I now have, BUT....

 

[CBODY67]

Whatever pan is used, a matching (depth) oil pickup needs to be used.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Whatever pan is used, a matching (depth) oil pickup needs to be used.

Nooo sheeeyuht!

One method some people advocate for increasing oil volume is to use a diesel engine oil filter, the 2 quart sort. Frankly, I don't think I have room for such, given the distance from the end of my 1 qt filter to the radiator, the hose, transmission oil cooling lines and stuff. I wonder if anyone currently driving from this Forum has a working setup for that.

 

[57fury440]

The earlier pans are made to fit the earlier chassis. The sump is in a different location on the pan.

 

[Gerald Morris]

The earlier pans are made to fit the earlier chassis. The sump is in a different location on the pan.

Stands to Reason. I see a MOST attractive 6 qt pan from 440 source here: Oil Pan - 6 quart - A or C body with tie rod relief - EXTRA THICK

with goodies like a pickup for it. God-willing, I'll be seriously considering the purchase of this before another year rolls around. Extra capacity at the least gives one a larger volume of oil for the engine to use, be cooled and cleansed by, as well as, one hopes, lubricated.

 

[Commando440]

Here's a little different situation. When you change the oil, let the oil drip from the drain plug hole until it is just a little drip every so often. Then pour a quart of oil through the valve cover for a bit of a "flush". Let it get to the random drips situation, too.

Then put the drain plug back in and add 4 quarts of oil into the engine. Let it all drain down to the pan. Maybe for 20+ minutes, but the bulk of it should be there by 10 minutes, I suspect. THEN check the oil level on a clean dipstick. It should be right at the "ADD" mark. This will let you know where things are when it will need another quart of motor oil. Then add the rest of the oil and start the engine to run it to get the filter saturated with oil, probably about 15 minutes or so. Then turn the engine off and let it sit overnight, checking it against the "FULL" level the next morning.

Doing things this way, you can generate all of the DATA you will need to make further decisions with.

In the USA, it is common (at places like WalMart and similar) to find 5qt oil jugs (with oil in them, of course) which also have a clear rib on their side by the pouring spout. With cast-in markings for "quarts" and its metric equivalent. So you might get one of those jugs to use to put oil in your engine. Perhaps the same jugs are available in Canada?

When we got our '66 Newport Town Sedan (383 2bbl) when it had 7100 miles on it, our long-time friend at the local Gulf Station, who had worked around Chryslers for years at that time, cautioned about checking the oil level after an oil change. At that time, it was somewhat common knowledge that some Chrysler V-8s would "kick-out" the first quart quickly, but past that, the oil level would stay where it was after that. Ours did not do that, though.

In looking at some of the 1960-era S.A.E. spec sheets, I noticed that Chrysler B/RB V-8s were rated at 6 quarts (incl filter) for an oil change. I did some checking of oil pan part numbers and discovered they were the same as for the later engines that were rated for 5qt oil changes. Remembering that "kicking-out that first quart" comment made me wonder if they just lowered the rated oil capacity to get around that situation on the 413 engines? "Crankshaft windage" with the 3.75" stroke motors? At THIS point in time, the individuals who spoke of this situation can't be inquired to, for various reasons, leaving the whole thing to careful speculation and research. BTAIM

Please keep us posted on your progress,
CBODY67

Thank you, for all of your great knowledge. Alot of it gets lost with me however, because i am only good with the very basics.
But.. where i am at-
Ive made sure the engine is what i thought it was.
Ive confirmed that there is a slight ding in the bottom of the pan (although not enough to cause s big difference).
Im having trouble checking measurements of dipstick. All i can find from online info is '23inch dipstick'. I cannot find measurements from eg. block to top of tube, top of tube/stick to fill line etc.
I only want to find these measurements because it is not original engine and was not swapped by me so could very well have been an incorrect dipstick put on.
Anyway, i have run again for 10minutes and drained oil again, this time overnight. I have a fresh bottle of oil so will monitor this time, how much goes in. Im thinking of putting the 4.7L in (5qt) and leaving at that. If the dipstick reads incorrectly, i will just have to monitor how she runs.