How much bar is too much bar

SludgeWizard

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I’ve got a new to me Fury 440 that’s been locked up solid for a number of years, I’ve been marinating it with a combination of B12 and ATF for a week now and I'm going to go try and break it loose tomorrow morning. However, how much breaker bar is too much for these crank bolts? I have tried a 2’ 3/4 drive ratchet and didn’t get anywhere, thinking of trying my 40” 3/4 drive breaker tomorrow. I figure it’ll either move or the engine is so seized that I’ll have to replace her anyways. Thoughts?
 
It’s worth a shot, that M18 has worked miracles for me. Though I still feel like a sizable breaker could be an answer
I’ve got a new to me Fury 440 that’s been locked up solid for a number of years, I’ve been marinating it with a combination of B12 and ATF for a week now and I'm going to go try and break it loose tomorrow morning. However, how much breaker bar is too much for these crank bolts? I have tried a 2’ 3/4 drive ratchet and didn’t get anywhere, thinking of trying my 40” 3/4 drive breaker tomorrow. I figure it’ll either move or the engine is so seized that I’ll have to replace her anyways. Thoughts?
I don't think either ratchet or breaker bar will hurt the engine. At worst they'll strip the crank bolt hole, which may be NBD if you have to replace crank anyway.
If you think the rings are causing the problem, another option is to pull the heads and hammer on top of the pistons with dowel and BFH.
If you think there's rust in the journals, you can pull distributor and oil pump drive and use hex rod to spin the oil pump and try to lube the engine.
 
I don't think either ratchet or breaker bar will hurt the engine. At worst they'll strip the crank bolt hole, which may be NBD if you have to replace crank anyway.
If you think the rings are causing the problem, another option is to pull the heads and hammer on top of the pistons with dowel and BFH.
If you think there's rust in the journals, you can pull distributor and oil pump drive and use hex rod to spin the oil pump and try to lube the engine.
I’ve heard of the BFH/length of pipe method, I’m hoping it doesn’t come to that. I’m fairly certain that it’s just the rings, I borescoped the chambers out and there was a halfway decent amount of surface rust (no pitting.) It got parked because the PO sucked some of the fiberglass blanket down the intake, that couldn’t potentially bend a con rod could it?
 
I’ve heard of the BFH/length of pipe method, I’m hoping it doesn’t come to that. I’m fairly certain that it’s just the rings, I borescoped the chambers out and there was a halfway decent amount of surface rust (no pitting.) It got parked because the PO sucked some of the fiberglass blanket down the intake, that couldn’t potentially bend a con rod could it?
I don't think so. I think it would have burned.
 
I've taken frozen 440 engines apart and it's not that big a deal, so if it doesn't move with the breaker bar, don't waste much more time with it. It's never gonna run right anyway if you do break it loose.

Pull the pan (I assume it's already out of the car) and just start unbolting rod caps (just be sure they are stamped with cylinder numbers) and main caps. Once you have that unbolted, you can "roll" the crank out. Once that's out of the way, you can get in and beat the pistons out the top.

Figure on boring the block. Hopefully the pits aren't so bad they don't clean up with the bore.

I seriously don't believe that the fiberglass hood mat made the engine seize.... It would have to be small enough to go through the carb and then the intake valves.
 
Dump the cylinders full of Marvel Mystery Oil and let it sit for a week or so .
Put a breaker bar on it and work it back and forth .
If you can get it to move at all , it will free up .
If not , another member mentioned a block of wood and BFH .
Good luck .
 
I've taken frozen 440 engines apart and it's not that big a deal, so if it doesn't move with the breaker bar, don't waste much more time with it. It's never gonna run right anyway if you do break it loose.

Pull the pan (I assume it's already out of the car) and just start unbolting rod caps (just be sure they are stamped with cylinder numbers) and main caps. Once you have that unbolted, you can "roll" the crank out. Once that's out of the way, you can get in and beat the pistons out the top.

Figure on boring the block. Hopefully the pits aren't so bad they don't clean up with the bore.

I seriously don't believe that the fiberglass hood mat made the engine seize.... It would have to be small enough to go through the carb and then the intake valves.
The engine is still in the car, just has the intake off and most of the accessories plus the rad out. The cylinders didn’t seem pitted but my borescope also kinda sucks so who knows honestly, might end up taking the heads off. I also really don’t believe the mat, I’m hoping and praying that it got parked for some other unrelated reason and it’s stuck now just from sitting. It’s been in a barn all in one piece for like 30 years so I have high hopes.
 
I was going to try to explain how I do it but this video from uncle Tony does a pretty good job of showing what to do.

 
I’d also like to add, if I can do anything to get this bastard running I will. It’s all original and has 7k miles on it, I’d be pretty damn depressed if it has to get replaced
 
The crank bolt is big, fine threaded, and very strong. Pull on it the right direction and you may break it loose depending on how stuck it is of course.
 
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