1969 Imperial progress thread

3175375 said:
I’m glad that the engine configuration has been worked out. It looks great!

You might want to do what I do regarding projects and toss all financial records (receipts, bills, credit card statements, etc). Keeping those things only led to sadness for myself. ;^)
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Thanks! :)

I don't keep track of small expenses, but unfortunately, the big bills are easy to remember. ;)
 
vdk2010 said:
Thanks! :)

I don't keep track of small expenses, but unfortunately, the big bills are easy to remember. ;)
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Especially the ‘doofus’ repairs.

I just finished ‘repairing’ or more accurately, bringing back to functional operation, our tractor, Lucifer (International Harvester Model 666).
The loader bucket would barely tilt in one direction. It was fine tilting up, but would only tilt back down about 1/2 way. The bucket would raise and lower fine. Bucket control is done via two hydraulic levers and valves to the right of the driver/operator.

I thought the issue was with the hydraulic ram, so I rebuilt it (hours and probably $100+ dollars for prongs, etc). That was a couple of months ago and didn’t improve anything.

I then decided that it was the control valve and took the suspect one apart on the tractor. I got it apart and didn’t notice anything wrong. So, I took the other one apart (it worked perfectly fine) and noticed that the control valve shaft was bent on the end and I dropped and lost a ball bearing somewhere in the shop (I spent a couple of hours looking for it and probably a lot more wondering about what was wrong with the tractor).
I called my cousin, who works on farm machinery as a career and explained everything to him (he helped me reassemble the ram for the bucket a few months ago).

In explaining everything to him he said that it sounds like a bad connection or jammed up quick disconnect (QD) fitting (where the hydraulic line goes from rigid - pipe to hose). While I had him on the phone and I am looking at the back of the tractor with two disassembled hydraulic control valves and a large tray of grease and hydraulic fluid in it below the valves), I look and tell him that yes, you’re right as I just spotted a poor QD connection for one side of the bucket RAM.

So I now have some crow to eat and get two good used valves 50 miles away ($500 and 550 each) and install them into Lucifer.

So, my point is that I don’t keep track of expenses as it reminds me of my human mistake prone past. My wife does remind me in a kind, soft way to be more humble and wise minded (never a bad thing).

So, you’re right that the big expenses sting a little more, but I don’t need to know and sulk or boast over all of the little things, so I don’t keep the receipts. I can still dig up most of them via my credit cards statements/history.

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3175375 said:
Especially the ‘doofus’ repairs.

I just finished ‘repairing’ or more accurately, bringing back to functional operation, our tractor, Lucifer (International Harvester Model 666).
The loader bucket would barely tilt in one direction. It was fine tilting up, but would only tilt back down about 1/2 way. The bucket would raise and lower fine. Bucket control is done via two hydraulic levers and valves to the right of the driver/operator.

I thought the issue was with the hydraulic ram, so I rebuilt it (hours and probably $100+ dollars for prongs, etc). That was a couple of months ago and didn’t improve anything.

I then decided that it was the control valve and took the suspect one apart on the tractor. I got it apart and didn’t notice anything wrong. So, I took the other one apart (it worked perfectly fine) and noticed that the control valve shaft was bent on the end and I dropped and lost a ball bearing somewhere in the shop (I spent a couple of hours looking for it and probably a lot more wondering about what was wrong with the tractor).
I called my cousin, who works on farm machinery as a career and explained everything to him (he helped me reassemble the ram for the bucket a few months ago).

In explaining everything to him he said that it sounds like a bad connection or jammed up quick disconnect (QD) fitting (where the hydraulic line goes from rigid - pipe to hose). While I had him on the phone and I am looking at the back of the tractor with two disassembled hydraulic control valves and a large tray of grease and hydraulic fluid in it below the valves), I look and tell him that yes, you’re right as I just spotted a poor QD connection for one side of the bucket RAM.

So I now have some crow to eat and get two good used valves 50 miles away ($500 and 550 each) and install them into Lucifer.

So, my point is that I don’t keep track of expenses as it reminds me of my human mistake prone past. My wife does remind me in a kind, soft way to be more humble and wise minded (never a bad thing).

So, you’re right that the big expenses sting a little more, but I don’t need to know and sulk or boast over all of the little things, so I don’t keep the receipts. I can still dig up most of them via my credit cards statements/history.

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That's how it usually works, yes :/
But in the end, you are happy that what you did worked out! :)
 
70NEWYORKER said:

vdk2010​

Could you tell me what tools you used for changing out the bushings in the transmission? Thanks!!
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Most of them can be punched through, as the underside of the parts is open. Only the small one in the input hub and the larger one in the reaction shaft support need to be destroyed in order to remove them. They are split bushings, so you can use a punch or similar tool to push one side in. As soon as they lose tension, they can be taken out.

To install the new ones, I used a set of round dies that I have for my shop press and installed the bushings with a hammer. These dies are readily available on Amazon, for example. Search for 'Bearing & Seal Driver Set'.
 
vdk2010 said:
The first load of engine parts arrived from Summit!
Next will be the package from 440 Source.

I'm soo excited!! :)
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Somehow i missed this thread. Great work!

I would not block off the exhaust crossover in the intake. I have the same valley pan with the blocked port, and regret this, on colder days and mornings, the first 15-20 minutes the car runs like a turd when the engine is cold. However, EFI will probably improve things in this regard. Personally, when i slap on my new 4bbl intake and 4bbl carb, i will be leaving the port open.
 
Last edited:
Unix said:
Somehow i missed this thread. Great work!

I would not block off the exhaust crossover in the intake. I have the same valley pan with the blocked port, and regret this, on colder days and mornings, the first 15-20 minutes the car runs like a turd when the engine is cold. However, EFI will probably improve things in this regard. Personally, when i slap on my new 4bbl intake and 4bbl carb, i will be leaving the port open.
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The valley pan has provisions, but my aluminum heads lack exhaust crossover ports. So this was never an option. ;)
 
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