Wanted Advice On 383 Big Block

Cianmini1

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Hi guys from Dublin ireland
I’ve got a 65 Chrysler Newport 383 Big Block.
It has been sometime since it has been driven.
Today I tried charging the battery didn’t get it fully charged tried cranking it a good few times almost started but didnt.
Just bought a new battery put it in a few back fires through the carb and it started fine. Drove it around the block and noticed when I came back that it is leaking at the intake manifold gasket and out of the dipstick. I guessed I had a backfire out of the intake causing this and the crankcase pressure blew it out the dipstick.
I’m going to strip it tomorrow!
Should I be worried or is it simply that it may just have coincidently blown an intake gasket ? Hopefully I Havnt done further damage.
Car seems happy and is running fine.
Thanks
Cian
 
I wouldn't worry too much if it's running good now. That "backfire" was probably just excess gas in the intake manifold from crank/no-start before.

When you say intake gasket, do you mean the valley pan or the (sometime) gasket between the head and the intake?
 
I wouldn't worry too much if it's running good now. That "backfire" was probably just excess gas in the intake manifold from crank/no-start before.

When you say intake gasket, do you mean the valley pan or the (sometime) gasket between the head and the intake?
Hi ok,
Yes sorry I mean valley pan gasket.
The fact all of a sudden the valley pan and dipstick pushed oil out made me think too much pressure in crankcase.
I checked the PCV Valve it’s fine
Did a compression test too all between 110-125psi which seems consistant, I thought it was a little low but seems others say similar.
So just replace valley pan gasket and go from there?
 
Hi ok,
Yes sorry I mean valley pan gasket.
The fact all of a sudden the valley pan and dipstick pushed oil out made me think too much pressure in crankcase.
I checked the PCV Valve it’s fine
Did a compression test too all between 110-125psi which seems consistant, I thought it was a little low but seems others say similar.
So just replace valley pan gasket and go from there?

I agree, you had a "too much pressure" in the crankcase event but hopefully that is a one time thing explained by raw fuel exploding where it shouldn't.

Blowing out the valley pan gasket is pretty rare in my (non-racer) experience but perhaps it wasn't installed properly (RTV on the ends and corners). I wonder if what you're seeing isn't just oil pooling there from bad valve cover gaskets or somewhere else. Pictures might help.

Good on ya for checking that PVC. I've heard of excessive blow-by (bad piston rings? faulty valve sealing?) pushing dipsticks out and forcing oil out the top end.

Those cylinder pressures are nicely consistent and 110-125 is ok IMO and considering i don't know what procedure was used. I've witnessed a friends B engine run tens of thousands of miles on similar numbers. I think that's OK.

You ever replace the timing chain in that thing?
 
I agree, you had a "too much pressure" in the crankcase event but hopefully that is a one time thing explained by raw fuel exploding where it shouldn't.

Blowing out the valley pan gasket is pretty rare in my (non-racer) experience but perhaps it wasn't installed properly (RTV on the ends and corners). I wonder if what you're seeing isn't just oil pooling there from bad valve cover gaskets or somewhere else. Pictures might help.

Good on ya for checking that PVC. I've heard of excessive blow-by (bad piston rings? faulty valve sealing?) pushing dipsticks out and forcing oil out the top end.

Those cylinder pressures are nicely consistent and 110-125 is ok IMO and considering i don't know what procedure was used. I've witnessed a friends B engine run tens of thousands of miles on similar numbers. I think that's OK.

You ever replace the timing chain in that thing?
yeah I think I need to check for blow by for sure yes and confirm valves are sealing correctly.
It’s an old engine I expect some blow by etc.
Il double check everywhere for oil leaks again and go from there!
Not in my ownership the timing chain was not done no.
 
When you say sometime since driven are we talking months or years ? Either way if it ran when parked it is set to start. Only thing is your carb is dry. Prime the carb with a little mixed gas and let it idle up to operating temp to ensure all the gaskets come around and the thermostat isn't stuck. Pour some berryman B12 down the carb and get the RPMs up. Let her eat the whole can. That should help free up any sticky rings.
 
When you say sometime since driven are we talking months or years ? Either way if it ran when parked it is set to start. Only thing is your carb is dry. Prime the carb with a little mixed gas and let it idle up to operating temp to ensure all the gaskets come around and the thermostat isn't stuck. Pour some berryman B12 down the carb and get the RPMs up. Let her eat the whole can. That should help free up any sticky rings.
It had been about 6 months since it was driven but has been started a few times since it Sat up and got it up to temp a few times!
At the moment it’s fine but once underload it seems to puke oil out of a few places.
Only the other day I left it get up to temp but this time when I drove it around the block it decided to puke the oil out.
Il get some of that Berryman b12. How much of it should I be putting down the carb?
 
It had been about 6 months since it was driven but has been started a few times since it Sat up and got it up to temp a few times!
At the moment it’s fine but once underload it seems to puke oil out of a few places.
Only the other day I left it get up to temp but this time when I drove it around the block it decided to puke the oil out.
Il get some of that Berryman b12. How much of it should I be putting down the carb?
Car was off the road due to a fuel issue not getting fuel so there had been a good few times of just cranking cranking with no start!
 
Also I see a few different berryman b-12 products come up which one do you recommend?
Entire fuel system. It helps free stuck rings. Feed it a full can down the carb at RPM and then a can in the tank. What does your oil smell like? Taste gas? (yes taste the dip stick and smell it) If so you could have a bad fuel pump diaphragm dumping gas into the crank case. Ethanol gas or just sitting dry can make them crack and split. If the car sits for 3-4 days does the car need cranked to reprime the carb ?? Good indicator it is bleeding back
 
Entire fuel system. It helps free stuck rings. Feed it a full can down the carb at RPM and then a can in the tank. What does your oil smell like? Taste gas? (yes taste the dip stick and smell it) If so you could have a bad fuel pump diaphragm dumping gas into the crank case. Ethanol gas or just sitting dry can make them crack and split. If the car sits for 3-4 days does the car need cranked to reprime the carb ?? Good indicator it is bleeding back
Hi oil smells fine,
Could defo see the plugs oily though,
Yes the car needs a couple cranks if I let it sit for a few days to start!
 
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