Fuel pump replacement on 67 Monaco Part 2: What am I missing now?

53ryder

53ryder

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​So after I've replaced the gas tank, fuel lines, sending unit and cleaned out the carb the car was still running rough. Hmmmm? The only thing left that I haven't tinkered with was the fuel pump. So out it came this morning and I'm glad it did!

The top two photos show the old pump. Look at the crud (rust) that came out of the pump in the middle picture! Yummy!

The bottom picture shows the fitting, that came off the old pump, which I must attach to the new pump so I can connect all the fuel hoses. As you can see it's metal threads going into metal threads. Is there a product which I should use to help seal the threads so gas won't leak out? Never done this before so I can use some help!

TIA!

Glenn


P.S.- The new fuel pump came with two (2) gaskets. Do I need to use both or will one do?

IMG_0582.jpg


IMG_0583.jpg


IMG_0584.jpg
 
Last edited:
The next-door-neighbor gave me a small tube of Loctite "Tite'n" Liquid Nut/Bolt Locker. I took the cap off and the stuff inside is blue in color. Will this work okay?

Glenn
 
Really you don't need anything, just thread it in and tighten to the torque specs.


If it makes you feel better, I would be using Teflon tape to seal the thread. the taper inside the pump & fitting should be good enough but a bit extra won't hurt.

Just keep it away from the hole as you thread it in.
 
So I am having trouble getting the fuel pump to fit against the block where it mounts. 2 measely bolts, but with one bolt slightly in the other is nowhere close to going in the hole. Doesn't line up. So is that actuator arm, that slides into the hole in the block where the pump mounts, supposed to go over something, or under something? Or is getting this pump back on just a pain anyways? Help!

Glenn
 
Is there something about checking the cam position? Or no?

Glenn
 
I usually use a good glob of grease on the push rod, push back up into the block. It should get you a few seconds.to get the pump in place before it drops back down and obstructs the plunger arm. Once in place it's usually fairly easy to bolt up.
 
Not really trying to complicate your life 53rider but you might just want to carry your project one step farther. Theirs an Allen Head plug at the bottom of that push rod on the block below where the pump mounts. If you've replaced the pump I'd pull that Allen Head and let the push rod drop out the hole. Clean it up and measure it for over all length. If it's any thing more then 3/32s" short of new I'd replace it with a new one before it leaves you on the side of the road wondering what's wrong and why your pride 'n joy died and won't even restart! (THE CAM AND THE PUMP HANDLE CAUSE WARE ON BOTH ENDS) Call Mancini Racing in Roseville, Mi. north of Detroit and get a Mopar Performance good one. What's ah couple more dayz tah do it rite aye? Jer
 
You started the car and it ran rough after you replaced the tank and lines? Then you pulled the fuel pump and poured out the rust/dirt? If I was you, I would mount up the new pump and disconnect the coil wire,...take the fuel line going to the carb and put it in a gallon milk jug and turn the engine over so it pumps fuel into the jug to make sure it's clean fuel. If so, hook it all up and change the filter again. If you use steel filters, cut the old one in half to see if there's crap in there.
 
In the second picture it appears to have some black deposits in the cup. If that is correct then may I suggest the rubber parts are degrading if you are using ethanol blended fuel. If so it maybe inside of the carb and doing the same thing. If possible please always stay away from that fuel and use non-ethanyl blended gasoline. I'm sure many people can share bad stories in using that if you need to hear any.....
 
53ryder said:
Is there something about checking the cam position? Or no?

Glenn
Click to expand...

If I remember correctly if you have your engine at TDC the cam will be the furthest from your fuel pump and it will bolt on no problem. There is definitely a sweet spot if TDC is wrong, turn the engine until the rod has moved in the furthest.
 
i don't know what size motor you have but the big blocks have a fuel pump push rod, I think the smaller motors run off the cam lobe directly,, but anyways to answer your question - yes if you have a push rod there is a trick to it.
you have to push the push rod up and stab the fuel pump in. the push rod hits the lever arm on the fuel pump and pushes it in. and it doesn't move up and down vertically it slides back and forth on its horizontal plane. push it towards the center of the motor and put a spec of grease on it and it will stay pushed in long enough to stab the pump. careful threading the 9/16 bolts or whatever that holds the pump to the block they are they are hard to get lined up sometimes.
 
The Monaco has a 383. There is a allen head plug in the block just below where the pump mounts. Didn't know what that was for. Thanks for the lesson! The bolts are 9/16ths. More to work on!

Glenn
 
BIGBARNEYCARS said:
Not really trying to complicate your life 53rider but you might just want to carry your project one step farther. Theirs an Allen Head plug at the bottom of that push rod on the block below where the pump mounts. If you've replaced the pump I'd pull that Allen Head and let the push rod drop out the hole. Clean it up and measure it for over all length. If it's any thing more then 3/32s" short of new I'd replace it with a new one before it leaves you on the side of the road wondering what's wrong and why your pride 'n joy died and won't even restart! (THE CAM AND THE PUMP HANDLE CAUSE WARE ON BOTH ENDS) Call Mancini Racing in Roseville, Mi. north of Detroit and get a Mopar Performance good one. What's ah couple more dayz tah do it rite aye? Jer
Click to expand...


So I unscrew the plug and and the push rod should just drop out. Check it, clean and assuming all is well just push it back into the hole that the plug covers and screw the plug back in...correct?

Glenn
 
Yes. Put either assembly lube on it or grease to hold it up. You need to push it all the way up, so the lever arm is under the push rod. Push the rod up and put the pump in quickly or the rod will move down and you'll need to push it back up again.
 
Too busy at work. Only have time to work on car on weekends. So I got the push rod out. So I should put it back in and nudge it up so it's out of the way and grease it so it will stay in place for a while before dropping down? Assembly grease? Will go to O'Reilly's and get some. Wish me luck!

Glenn


Picture of push rod below.

IMG_0586.jpg
 
53ryder said:
Too busy at work. Only have time to work on car on weekends. So I got the push rod out. So I should put it back in and nudge it up so it's out of the way and grease it so it will stay in place for a while before dropping down? Assembly grease? Will go to O'Reilly's and get some. Wish me luck!

Glenn

Picture of push rod below.
Click to expand...
Did you measure the overall length to make sure it is not worn down?
 
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