traintech55
Senior Member
That is what we are trying to tell you. You will be getting parts the factory specked to haul that 4700 pound monster down in a hurry. The last thing you want to do is hit a Toyota with that land barge.
Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion
- Thread starter 70_NPORT
- Start date
1966newport
Well-Known Member
- Joined
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and nothing has improved since 1973?
traintech55
Senior Member
Not as far as a 1969 thru 1973 "C" body Chrysler is concerned. They stopped doing development and testing when they came out with the formals.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
We're trying to get Gary some disc brakes that work and is simple to install with zero issues.
So, nothing has come along AFAIAC.
Nothing wrong with a K-tek tubular rack and pinion IRS with 18" Brembos, but he didn't ask for that.
rags
Senior Member
4 wheel disc brake conversion on my '69 newport with '69 new yorker disc set-up at front. hydro-booster, master, disc brake 9 inch from '77 lincoln. all factory stuff and will lock all 4. only thing better would be abs, but we're not shooting for that either. GO KID!
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
Reading through all the posts in this thread as far as I can see the only questionable topic would be whether to use a single or dual diaphragm booster. Those who have done the conversion and are using the single-d booster say they're sufficient and that includes myself. Although it does work fine IMO, there is something to be said about why MaMopar engineers designed their disc brake systems to be used with a dual-d booster. That said, use your own judgement. The best decision you can make is what you feel comfortable with because you will have to live with the results. If there's even a question in your mind about using a single-d booster, get a dual-d booster. If you decide to stick with your single-d booster then at the least get it rebuilt.
I have a disease, it's called "IDE" I document everything LOL! I really do it just so I can remember what I did... and I enjoy sharing my results with others if it can make their lives easier. When embarking to do my drum to disc conversion I initially acquired a '70 spindle setup. When I was just about ready to start the conversion Carl K. happened to turn me onto a '73 spindle setup - so I went that route.
The documents I'm providing the links to are "My How To/Steps I Did" for doing a front disc conversion along with some other useful information. In my research I compiled a lot of data, sorted them out and put them into an easy to read format. I've written one for 69-72 Spindles as well as one for the 73 Spindles. While the document doesn't lead you 100% step by step nor give torque values or instructions of how to bleed the brake lines, I'm confident the material is sufficient enough to assist one in doing a front disc conversion with minimal effort. Consult your FSM for information needed not found in these documents or just ask - there's a wealth of information and experience out there between all us members.
The files are in a pdf format and it would be best to download it and print it as they may not be kept on the server forever.
Too bad there wasn't a depository on this forum with specific categories to upload document files to. It would definitely be a good resource area for everyone.
- Steven
Files updated 4/9/16 09:15 am
Drum to Disc Conversions Using 69-72 Spindles -
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/433231/Drum to Disk Conversion - 69-72 Spindles _040916.pdf
Drum to Disc Conversions Using '73 Spindles -
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/433231/Drum to Disc Conversion -73 Spindles_ 040916.pdf
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70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Yeh all that stuff is cool; but not on my car. I prefer the Chrysler parts.
Wow Steven...this is absolutely terrific, yes I downloaded me a copy of the 73 conversion just in case its wiped off the server, Thanks!
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Aaahhh. . . The BFH !
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
PRICELESS!!!!!!!!
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
So I was able to get just about everything from Rock Auto except:
Timken bearing seals
RA didnt have them, but Amazon does. Also RA only had one Raybestos caliper, the drivers side. Out of stock on the pass side. So one is DR side comes from RA, Pass comes from Amazon. Wish could get both at RA. The calipers come with pins too. THANKS to Steven again!
Timken bearing seals
RA didnt have them, but Amazon does. Also RA only had one Raybestos caliper, the drivers side. Out of stock on the pass side. So one is DR side comes from RA, Pass comes from Amazon. Wish could get both at RA. The calipers come with pins too. THANKS to Steven again!
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
WTF...the calipers at Amazon ship 3 to 5 weeks AFTER order is placed! Oh screw that. I could forge my own damn calipers in 3 to 5 wks.
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
I'm sure you could go with the A-1 Cardone @ RA. It doesn't look like it comes with the caliper pins, but you can buy them separate. For what its worth, I didn't use the springs. You could cancel the Amazon order and the LEFT caliper from RA and just get both the A-1 Cardone calipers from RA and the pins separately?
My calipers were rebuilt Mopar units. Don't know if there's much difference between the Raybestos vs A-1 Cardone's. They're just stamped iron with a piston so I wouldn't think there would be much difference if any.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
I haven't placed any of my Amazon orders yet; checking to see how long they take to ship (s l o w). I've heard of the Raybestos name, but A-1 Cardone no. I guess you are right though, not much difference when you look at them I suppose.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I've bought Cardone calipers. Factory core with new steel (not plastic) pucks.
They are excellent.
They are excellent.
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
SORRY GUYS I MADE A CORRECTION FOR JUST ONE PART NUMBER
IN THE 69-72 DOCUMENT - SMALLER DUST CAP FOR ROTOR 618100
I'VE UP-LOADED THE CORRECTED DOC TO THE SERVER AND CHANGED THE ORIGINAL LINK TO REFLECT THE CHANGES.
IF YOU'VE PREVIOUSLY DOWN-LOADED THE DOCS, DELETE THEM AND RE-DOWN LOAD.
THE DATE/TIME OF THE FILE IDENTIFIES THE LATEST CHANGE.
VERIFY YOU HAVE THE TIME STAMP OF 04/09/16 - 09:15 AM
IN THE 69-72 DOCUMENT - SMALLER DUST CAP FOR ROTOR 618100
I'VE UP-LOADED THE CORRECTED DOC TO THE SERVER AND CHANGED THE ORIGINAL LINK TO REFLECT THE CHANGES.
IF YOU'VE PREVIOUSLY DOWN-LOADED THE DOCS, DELETE THEM AND RE-DOWN LOAD.
THE DATE/TIME OF THE FILE IDENTIFIES THE LATEST CHANGE.
VERIFY YOU HAVE THE TIME STAMP OF 04/09/16 - 09:15 AM
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Yea, I've gotten caught in that trap too. The Amazon vendor doesn't have them on their shelf... They have it dropped shipped from a supplier's warehouse. Of course, it may be the same warehouse that Rock Auto is pulling from too.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Yeah. I hate that. I'm glad I saw that before ordering.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Auto Zone has Timken bearing and cone index in every store.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
So Murphy shows up today.....
The damn brake drum will not come off. I've tried to pull it, rotate it while pulling it, wacked it, even prayed to it, then cursed it..several times, harshly. It's not budging. Thoughts?
The damn brake drum will not come off. I've tried to pull it, rotate it while pulling it, wacked it, even prayed to it, then cursed it..several times, harshly. It's not budging. Thoughts?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
May I assume you backed off the adjusters and removed the bleeder?
On stubborn drums, I beat the **** out of it striking the sides all around to release any contact the shoes have with the inside if a drum.
On stubborn drums, I beat the **** out of it striking the sides all around to release any contact the shoes have with the inside if a drum.
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