For Sale 1975 Imperial LeBaron $4000

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QMopar

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I'm selling my 1975 Imperial LeBaron. Bought it with 49,700 miles, it now has 63,XXX which will go up as I drive it on nice days.

It had been sitting for about 10 years when I purchased it from the owner's daughter after he passed. The WWII vet was a Chrysler guy and always wanted an Imperial. Sometime in 1975 or 76, he purchased this one and evidently was planning on keeping it forever. I'm not sure at what point he had it repainted but, when it was resprayed, he also had it rustproofed and undercoated with some government-spec stuff. It’s still on there and probably what preserved it. There is some surface rust behind rear wheel wells but no rust-through. We’re guessing that original vinyl top shrunk so they cut and reinstalled the top trim to compensate for the shrinkage.

It's unique in that it has so few options. No rear window defroster, no power door locks, no power trunk, no leather, no tilt/telescope wheel, not even a right hand mirror…but all Imperial.

A beautiful black velour interior and nice straight body. This is a driver and I’ve taken it to the All Chrysler Nationals in Carlisle, PA the last three years (a 600-mile round trip) and drive it to work during the summer months. It goes down the road very nicely and gets 2-tons of looks. Cruise, windows, headlight doors and power antenna all work.

Over the last 3 years I’ve updated and upgraded the following:



· Rebuilt all 4 power window motors with new gears and lubed the regulators.

· All fluids flushed and refilled

· Stock 440 with Holley Street Dominator aluminum intake

· Rebuilt Carter Competition Series 4 barrel

· Custom-made FireCore plug wires (patterned after the original wires)

· FBO ignition with custom distributor curve

· Turned front rotors, new front pads & repacked wheels bearings

· Replaced front brake calipers and hoses

· New KYB front shocks

· New idler arm

· Custom dual exhaust with H-pipe and AP XLerator Turbo mufflers

· 4 new 235/75R15XL Kuhmo Optimo H724 tires (and front end alignment)

· Upgraded R134 Sanden AC compressor (US-made) with BPE Mounting Bracket and custom AC hoses


Being 42 years old, it’s not perfect:

· Transmission has some pump noise in reverse. Hasn’t gotten any worse in the 3 years I’ve been driving it and shifts just fine through all 3 gears.

· Wiper motor has never worked right and bushings are shot. Comes with a new motor and bushings

· As soon as I got it out of storage this year the AC compressor clutch went. I just unplugged the compressor so the other ATC options work

· Paint is presentable but some chips and nicks here and there.

· Turn signal stalk is bent but still functions fine

· Left side radio speakers don’t seem to work

· Chronometer ticks but doesn’t keep time.


I was seriously considering going with fuel injection so the carb is serviceable but not perfect. It’s cold-blooded and has a bit of flat spot from stop under hard acceleration. A new Edelbrock, Holley, Quick-Fuel, or (insert your favorite brand here) carb would do the trick.

I’m selling because our daughter has been accepted to an out-of-state summer ballet intensive which is expensive. It’s something she really wants to pursue and it’s a great opportunity for her. I can always get another car – maybe not like this one but that’s what parents do for their kids. If she wasn’t dancing, I’d probably keep it forever. I had a 77 Chrysler New Yorker as a kid (grandpa gave it me) so I’ve had a chance to relive my teenage memories and now she can create hers.

I’m asking $4000.

It’s truly a good car where you can just drive it and enjoy it. It was featured in a mini-documentary on Imperial here:

If I get my asking price I can throw in some extras like an NOS turn signal stalk, NOS A-pillar chrome trim, C-body hi-po exhaust manifolds (blasted and primed with VHT primer), impossible-to-find rear rotors turned and ready to install, as well as a driver’s quality set (4) of the Chrysler dress wheels (no trim rings). All the original components go with the car; original R-2 AC compressor, plug wires, iron intake manifold, and ignition. I can take pictures of most anything you’d like – feel free to ask questions. qmopar @ yahoo com is the best way to get me.





More pictures here: 75imperial.html

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2014-06-15 21.04.42_759x794.jpg


IMG_4429.JPG
 
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Nice Imperial...My Father bought a 75 Imperial after retiring...only Imperial he ever owned. It was a passenger side mirror delete car too.
 
Of my two '75 Imps (both crown coupes), one has the passenger mirror and the other one does not. Here's the one without
IMG_5672.PNG
 
I'm selling my 1975 Imperial LeBaron. Bought it with 49,700 miles, it now has 63,XXX which will go up as I drive it on nice days.

It had been sitting for about 10 years when I purchased it from the owner's daughter after he passed. The WWII vet was a Chrysler guy and always wanted an Imperial. Sometime in 1975 or 76, he purchased this one and evidently was planning on keeping it forever. I'm not sure at what point he had it repainted but, when it was resprayed, he also had it rustproofed and undercoated with some government-spec stuff. It’s still on there and probably what preserved it. There is some surface rust behind rear wheel wells but no rust-through. We’re guessing that original vinyl top shrunk so they cut and reinstalled the top trim to compensate for the shrinkage.

It's unique in that it has so few options. No rear window defroster, no power door locks, no power trunk, no leather, no tilt/telescope wheel, not even a right hand mirror…but all Imperial.

A beautiful black velour interior and nice straight body. This is a driver and I’ve taken it to the All Chrysler Nationals in Carlisle, PA the last three years (a 600-mile round trip) and drive it to work during the summer months. It goes down the road very nicely and gets 2-tons of looks. Cruise, windows, headlight doors and power antenna all work.

Over the last 3 years I’ve updated and upgraded the following:



· Rebuilt all 4 power window motors with new gears and lubed the regulators.

· All fluids flushed and refilled

· Stock 440 with Holley Street Dominator aluminum intake

· Rebuilt Carter Competition Series 4 barrel

· Custom-made FireCore plug wires (patterned after the original wires)

· FBO ignition with custom distributor curve

· Turned front rotors, new front pads & repacked wheels bearings

· Replaced front brake calipers and hoses

· New KYB front shocks

· New idler arm

· Custom dual exhaust with H-pipe and AP XLerator Turbo mufflers

· 4 new 235/75R15XL Kuhmo Optimo H724 tires (and front end alignment)

· Upgraded R134 Sanden AC compressor (US-made) with BPE Mounting Bracket and custom AC hoses


Being 42 years old, it’s not perfect:

· Transmission has some pump noise in reverse. Hasn’t gotten any worse in the 3 years I’ve been driving it and shifts just fine through all 3 gears.

· Wiper motor has never worked right and bushings are shot. Comes with a new motor and bushings

· As soon as I got it out of storage this year the AC compressor clutch went. I just unplugged the compressor so the other ATC options work

· Paint is presentable but some chips and nicks here and there.

· Turn signal stalk is bent but still functions fine

· Left side radio speakers don’t seem to work

· Chronometer ticks but doesn’t keep time.


I was seriously considering going with fuel injection so the carb is serviceable but not perfect. It’s cold-blooded and has a bit of flat spot from stop under hard acceleration. A new Edelbrock, Holley, Quick-Fuel, or (insert your favorite brand here) carb would do the trick.

I’m selling because our daughter has been accepted to an out-of-state summer ballet intensive which is expensive. It’s something she really wants to pursue and it’s a great opportunity for her. I can always get another car – maybe not like this one but that’s what parents do for their kids. If she wasn’t dancing, I’d probably keep it forever. I had a 77 Chrysler New Yorker as a kid (grandpa gave it me) so I’ve had a chance to relive my teenage memories and now she can create hers.

I’m asking $4000.

It’s truly a good car where you can just drive it and enjoy it. It was featured in a mini-documentary on Imperial here:

If I get my asking price I can throw in some extras like an NOS turn signal stalk, NOS A-pillar chrome trim, C-body hi-po exhaust manifolds (blasted and primed with VHT primer), impossible-to-find rear rotors turned and ready to install, as well as a driver’s quality set (4) of the Chrysler dress wheels (no trim rings). All the original components go with the car; original R-2 AC compressor, plug wires, iron intake manifold, and ignition. I can take pictures of most anything you’d like – feel free to ask questions. qmopar @ yahoo com is the best way to get me.


Is the car in the video your car?
 
tunaboat75: Nice looking Imp coupes! You wouldn't happen to have a spare 1971-1974 New yorker Imperial T & T steering wheel with no cracks for sale would you?
 
A great thing you're doing for your daughter, hope she has much success with her Ballet dream, and that you can get a buyer. Looks a lovely car.
She's a good kid - both our daughters are - and we need to do what we can to help them realize their full potential. Car is nice too
 
I have a '75 Imperial just purchased in New Mexico. The car had been sitting around for a while.... several years, occasionally being started by the elderly man that owned it (second owner). Was driving it around and the it was running rough, thought it might be a fueling problem. Come to find out the gas was leaking out of the carb and dripping into the intake manifold. Replaced carb with an after market new carb and it still runs a little rough. The shop guys said the timing was checked twice, fuel pump working, no fouled plugs and good wires. Inside of the gas tank was clean and some vacum lines replaced, ect., ect. I'm at 6000' elevation and this might be a part of the problem and driving back to midwest but I think I still have a vac leak somewhere! Any advice from you mechanical guys?
 
I have a '75 Imperial just purchased in New Mexico. The car had been sitting around for a while.... several years, occasionally being started by the elderly man that owned it (second owner). Was driving it around and the it was running rough, thought it might be a fueling problem. Come to find out the gas was leaking out of the carb and dripping into the intake manifold. Replaced carb with an after market new carb and it still runs a little rough. The shop guys said the timing was checked twice, fuel pump working, no fouled plugs and good wires. Inside of the gas tank was clean and some vacum lines replaced, ect., ect. I'm at 6000' elevation and this might be a part of the problem and driving back to midwest but I think I still have a vac leak somewhere! Any advice from you mechanical guys?
Robert, I am going to have to bug you for some pictures sooner or later...:thumbsup:. How many do you own now? We Formal guys need to try to stick together for the parts hunt.

As far as your running condition, is it just at idle or all the time? If idle only, that is a classic vacuum leak symptom... but also a by product of reformulated gasoline's. Low emissions gasoline's are blended with oxidizers to help complete the burn into harmless CO2 (which tree hugger's now hate). Ethanol is one of the many agents used to accomplish this, so high ethanol fuels may be to blame too. RFG is more expensive, so if you are getting it... it is likely because your county is required to sell the crap. Search for non-ethanol gasoline in your area and try it for a tank or two... I bet you notice a difference.

If it is an all the time symptom, you have some deeper issues and your mechanic should have recommended additional testing. Depending on tools available to him, an ignition scope would help a bunch finding a weak cylinder. A similar power balance test can be done low tech with a tachometer, about a half inch or so of cheap vacuum hose between the distributor cap towers and the plug wires(you'll need less than a foot total), and a grounding probe (test lights work great). Warmed up, just touch the vacuum hose with the test light(grounded)(a test light will blink too) and note the rpm drop for each cylinder as you short it. Do this more than once to make certain you have consistent results and the weak cylinder(s) will show as much smaller rpm drops. You may need to load the engine by having a helper hold the brake while in gear, in case your results are inconclusive.

The above test does not work on fuel injected cars unless you disable the idle air control valve. JIC someone reads this and tries.

If a weak cylinder is found, you will need to start by pulling/reading the plugs(keep them in order) and doing a compression test. If the compression test shows weak, do a wet compression test and a cylinder leak down test... all of those results will help determine where the engine has lost compression and we can help you through them if needed.

If you are taking this information to a mechanic to do the work, you need a better mechanic... This is basic diagnosis.
 
I'm selling my 1975 Imperial LeBaron. Bought it with 49,700 miles, it now has 63,XXX which will go up as I drive it on nice days.

It had been sitting for about 10 years when I purchased it from the owner's daughter after he passed. The WWII vet was a Chrysler guy and always wanted an Imperial. Sometime in 1975 or 76, he purchased this one and evidently was planning on keeping it forever. I'm not sure at what point he had it repainted but, when it was resprayed, he also had it rustproofed and undercoated with some government-spec stuff. It’s still on there and probably what preserved it. There is some surface rust behind rear wheel wells but no rust-through. We’re guessing that original vinyl top shrunk so they cut and reinstalled the top trim to compensate for the shrinkage.

It's unique in that it has so few options. No rear window defroster, no power door locks, no power trunk, no leather, no tilt/telescope wheel, not even a right hand mirror…but all Imperial.

A beautiful black velour interior and nice straight body. This is a driver and I’ve taken it to the All Chrysler Nationals in Carlisle, PA the last three years (a 600-mile round trip) and drive it to work during the summer months. It goes down the road very nicely and gets 2-tons of looks. Cruise, windows, headlight doors and power antenna all work.

Over the last 3 years I’ve updated and upgraded the following:



· Rebuilt all 4 power window motors with new gears and lubed the regulators.

· All fluids flushed and refilled

· Stock 440 with Holley Street Dominator aluminum intake

· Rebuilt Carter Competition Series 4 barrel

· Custom-made FireCore plug wires (patterned after the original wires)

· FBO ignition with custom distributor curve

· Turned front rotors, new front pads & repacked wheels bearings

· Replaced front brake calipers and hoses

· New KYB front shocks

· New idler arm

· Custom dual exhaust with H-pipe and AP XLerator Turbo mufflers

· 4 new 235/75R15XL Kuhmo Optimo H724 tires (and front end alignment)

· Upgraded R134 Sanden AC compressor (US-made) with BPE Mounting Bracket and custom AC hoses


Being 42 years old, it’s not perfect:

· Transmission has some pump noise in reverse. Hasn’t gotten any worse in the 3 years I’ve been driving it and shifts just fine through all 3 gears.

· Wiper motor has never worked right and bushings are shot. Comes with a new motor and bushings

· As soon as I got it out of storage this year the AC compressor clutch went. I just unplugged the compressor so the other ATC options work

· Paint is presentable but some chips and nicks here and there.

· Turn signal stalk is bent but still functions fine

· Left side radio speakers don’t seem to work

· Chronometer ticks but doesn’t keep time.


I was seriously considering going with fuel injection so the carb is serviceable but not perfect. It’s cold-blooded and has a bit of flat spot from stop under hard acceleration. A new Edelbrock, Holley, Quick-Fuel, or (insert your favorite brand here) carb would do the trick.

I’m selling because our daughter has been accepted to an out-of-state summer ballet intensive which is expensive. It’s something she really wants to pursue and it’s a great opportunity for her. I can always get another car – maybe not like this one but that’s what parents do for their kids. If she wasn’t dancing, I’d probably keep it forever. I had a 77 Chrysler New Yorker as a kid (grandpa gave it me) so I’ve had a chance to relive my teenage memories and now she can create hers.

I’m asking $4000.

It’s truly a good car where you can just drive it and enjoy it. It was featured in a mini-documentary on Imperial here:

If I get my asking price I can throw in some extras like an NOS turn signal stalk, NOS A-pillar chrome trim, C-body hi-po exhaust manifolds (blasted and primed with VHT primer), impossible-to-find rear rotors turned and ready to install, as well as a driver’s quality set (4) of the Chrysler dress wheels (no trim rings). All the original components go with the car; original R-2 AC compressor, plug wires, iron intake manifold, and ignition. I can take pictures of most anything you’d like – feel free to ask questions. qmopar @ yahoo com is the best way to get me.





More pictures here: 75imperial.html

BTW... sorry for the high jacking of the thread... but on the positive side... it keeps it close to the top this way. Love your Imperial... I just can't buy another one:)
 
All nice Imps but they look like they're missing something without the passenger side mirrors. I wonder if I ever would have noticed if it was never pointed out? It's like an episode of Brain Games....
 
All nice Imps but they look like they're missing something without the passenger side mirrors. I wonder if I ever would have noticed if it was never pointed out? It's like an episode of Brain Games....
Let me add a small note to this.
The passenger side rear view mirror on my 76 NYB drives me nuts because it was mounted crooked from the factory. What bothered me most was how could this happen in as much as I mistakenly believed the mirror mounting holes were punched as part of the stamping process.
Now that I see that the mirror was optional, it's obvious the holes were added much further down the line and subject to the sobriety of the person on the line.
 
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