Front Stub Frame Removal

[LocuMob]

Basic question concerning the operation on my 66 Polara, do I have to remove the fenders? I'm just wondering how much I actually have to take off to remove the Stub Frame. If I have to fine, but if I could leave as much as possible in place, I could swap it over like it's nothing, right?! I'm sure it would mess with alignment and such, with different weights bending and twisting it.

I assume I can use wheels to guide it in place when I'm going to swap the straighter one in?

Just trying to figure out how to fast track the process. I'll do some searching, but I have limited hours awake before I have to get cracking.

Thanks FCBO Brain Trust!

 

[mopar_4life]

Ok, I have done this recently.

Changing out the old Stubframe

I did it in a few extra steps.

You can remove all of the front sheet metal as an assembly. I had a repair manual and it didn't tell me about the two bolts shoved between the fender and the firewall.... I ended up taking it apart in pieces.... It was easier to handle.

You don't have to remove the engine or trans before removing. I only did because my father thought it would be safer. Plus I wanted it on an engine stand to replace some gaskets and send the heads out to have hardened seats put in.

Wheels can stay on. I used some harbor freight wooden dollies to move the rear of the stubframe. The frame only bolts in one place. Keep track of the body shims. Mine were in good shape. But you might have to have new ones made.

 

[mopar_4life]

Here is another one.
The sub frame project has begun..

 

[Carmine]

Or this:

Removing a rotten stub frame filled with rats nests and (probably) hantavirus

But seriously if you leave the wheels on, you can move it around like a giant wheel barrow. On the one you see me pull out, the wheel barrow "handles" are absent... that's how rusty it was. The only thing that required a few tugs with the truck was a small section of the trans crossmember clinging for dear life.

 

[LocuMob]

Ok, I have done this recently.

Changing out the old Stubframe

I did it in a few extra steps.

You can remove all of the front sheet metal as an assembly. I had a repair manual and it didn't tell me about the two bolts shoved between the fender and the firewall.... I ended up taking it apart in pieces.... It was easier to handle.

You don't have to remove the engine or trans before removing. I only did because my father thought it would be safer. Plus I wanted it on an engine stand to replace some gaskets and send the heads out to have hardened seats put in.

Wheels can stay on. I used some harbor freight wooden dollies to move the rear of the stubframe. The frame only bolts in one place. Keep track of the body shims. Mine were in good shape. But you might have to have new ones made.

Those 2 bolts are good to know about.

The engine and trans are already out.

Thanks for the info about the shims. Thanks for the links also. Reading for work tonight!

 

[LocuMob]

Or this:

Removing a rotten stub frame filled with rats nests and (probably) hantavirus

But seriously if you leave the wheels on, you can move it around like a giant wheel barrow. On the one you see me pull out, the wheel barrow "handles" are absent... that's how rusty it was. The only thing that required a few tugs with the truck was a small section of the trans crossmember clinging for dear life.

Thanks for the info. I can deal with wheelbarrows! Trans crossmember already in trunk!

 

[Carmine]

Thanks for the info. I can deal with wheelbarrows! Trans crossmember already in trunk!

Stop!

Do not remove the removable trans crossmember while you still have a load on the suspension! The back end of the "wheel barrow" needs to be tied together at each side.

Remember, the torsion bars are twisting against each other through the trans crossmember. If you remove this piece, and all the other attachment points, the torsion bars can fold the frame at its weakest point (the dual exhaust humps). Ask me how I know.

Reinstall the crossmember.

In my case, I didn't remove any stub frame bolts. So when I say a piece of the trans crossmember was clinging to life, I'm talking about a 2-3" section that wasn't terminally rusted. I sawed that through once the rest of the stub/engine/trans was about a foot further than it should normally be.. that's the change in camera angle in my video.

 

[LocuMob]

Stop!

Do not remove the removable trans crossmember while you still have a load on the suspension! The back end of the "wheel barrow" needs to be tied together at each side.

Remember, the torsion bars are twisting against each other through the trans crossmember. If you remove this piece, and all the other attachment points, the torsion bars can fold the frame at its weakest point (the dual exhaust humps). Ask me how I know.

Reinstall the crossmember.

In my case, I didn't remove any stub frame bolts. So when I say a piece of the trans crossmember was clinging to life, I'm talking about a 2-3" section that wasn't terminally rusted. I sawed that through once the rest of the stub/engine/trans was about a foot further than it should normally be.. that's the change in camera angle in my video.

Ok. They took the crossmember out when they took the drivetrain out. Easy enough to bolt back in. Haven't watched the video yet, got time tonight. Folding the thing I need wouldn't be good, make the whole things a waste.

 

[LocuMob]

One thing I was thinking about doing was putting the front end kit from PST on the new stub frame off the old stub frame. 3 years old not that many miles. I guess I'll have to see the condition of what I'm getting before I know what route to go.

 

[Ripinator]

One thing I was thinking about doing was putting the front end kit from PST on the new stub frame off the old stub frame. 3 years old not that many miles. I guess I'll have to see the condition of what I'm getting before I know what route to go.