Oil Service Question on New Vehicle

Snotty

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Hey all, I have a question of which I wonder what some of you would do?

I told you that I bought a 2017 Durango R/T in October, 2016. Tghe owner's manual gives no detail to oil changes except "Follow the recommendation of the computer." Or, something like that. I had the oil changed by the dealer when the computer said "5% life remaining." That was at close to 9,000 miles.

At this time the computer states that I have 44% life at 14,800 miles, yet the window sticker put on by the dealer says I should get it done now.

What would/do you do if you own a new vehicle?

I appreciate what you can say. Thanks, Scott
 
The computer in my 14 Ram is set up for 10k oil changes. I have it changed at 5k and my dealer says that's what most of their customers do - and in fact what they recommend. Should be okay to 10k nowadays but I just can't bring myself to do it. So mine gets changed at 50% by the dash readout.
 
I'm still old school, although I have relented a bit. I will go as high as 6000-6500 miles (10000 km) and I have to take it in. I don't trust the computer. It's just cheap insurance to me. Most of my oil changes on my last two Rams have been at about 40-45% remaining. And no synthetic for me, either.
 
I'm still old school, although I have relented a bit. I will go as high as 6000-6500 miles (10000 km) and I have to take it in. I don't trust the computer. It's just cheap insurance to me. Most of my oil changes on my last two Rams have been at about 40-45% remaining. And no synthetic for me, either.
It's just a timer; I'm under no illusion that it is actually measuring the viscosity of the oil. But still, if I don't need to change it... that's my dilemma.
 
The Chally has gotten oil change every 3000 miles.. Car just turned 20,000 and is a 2011...
Picked up a used Porsche (2008).. Oil was changed when we got it, then after 2000 miles and then after another 2000 miles...
On last oil change I removed the pan and added a baffle and oil pan spacer.... The Porsche has NO dipstick so have to rely on
what the computer says as to oil level... A major sucky design.......
I *ALWAYS* use synthetic..

A good theory is,,, if in doubt then change it....
Never hurts to change the oil...
 
It's just a timer; I'm under no illusion that it is actually measuring the viscosity of the oil. But still, if I don't need to change it... that's my dilemma.
I'm fairly certain that it is more than just a timer. I think it also takes into account for extended idling time for example. My intervals (life remaining) are not a constant with mileage driven. It was reduced when I towed, as well. Highway driving seemed to extend the time.
 
I'm fairly certain that it is more than just a timer. I think it also takes into account for extended idling time for example.

Correct. These new cars take idle time, ambient air temp, drive time, etc. into account and adjust accordingly based on parameters set by the factories who put millions of dollars into development. We have a 08' Civic that I have seen oil changes as low 4,500 mile with mostly in town/short drive miles, all the way up to 9,500 with mostly highway/distance driving.
 
Correct. These new cars take idle time, ambient air temp, drive time, etc. into account and adjust accordingly based on parameters set by the factories who put millions of dollars into development. We have a 08' Civic that I have seen oil changes as low 4,500 mile with mostly in town/short drive miles, all the way up to 9,500 with mostly highway/distance driving.

The best way to determine oil life is to have an oil analysis done. This way you know how the oil is holding up under your driving conditions and habits. The newer computers are getting better, but none of them can tell you if the oil is contaminated from short trip driving or oxidized from high performance driving. Also keep in mind that auto makers are in the business of selling cars and they are not necessarily very interested in making your vehicle last as long as possible.

Dave
 
While that may be true, they sure don't want to spend any money on warranty repairs either.

Agreed, no manufacturer wants to spend money on warranty repairs. Most of the time, too long of a service interval is a slow death situation. The vehicle likely will be long out of warranty before the engine expires.

Dave
 
Old school here also. New car first oil change before 5k. Gotta believe there’s some kinda break-in contamination. Then after around 7500 miles. I have had dealer service write-up guys argue with me saying i don’t need an oil change cause his computor says it isn’t time yet. I go down the street to the quick change place then.
I change oil in the Monaco each spring.
 
Figured I'd throw my two cents in cause I do this for a living. Best thing you can do to extend component life besides using good oil is to only use a quality filter. Look at the microns that's the key. The million dollar CATs we take care of use filters today that would be considered "clean out " filters back in the day. If you get critters in the sensors the oil flows thru it will cause all kinds of mayhem. Everything made now is chock full of electrics. One of the best non CAT filters out there is made by Donaldson. LeBaron is 100% correct cheapest insurance you can buy.
 
The 16 Ram and the 13 Charger every 5000 km. If they are not driven for any length of time first stop is for an oil change.
 
Use your owners manual, use the correct oil and a quality filter. Early changes are no problem, quick lubes won't use the right oil. A modern engine with several hundred thousands of miles still won't need a ridge reamer at tear down... lots of metallurgy and chemistry involved in modern engines to allow tighter tolerances and prevent wear.

FWIW, MB flexible service system from 1998 may include in it's calculation of oil life: coolant temps, rpms, engine load, oil levels, oil temps and oil quality. Oil quality sensor's basically measure the conductivity of the oil and can detect changes from too much metallic material, fuel or water.

You can do 5k changes instead of 10k, but the key is the correct oil and filters being used. Pretty much all newer engines require the specific viscosity a type to function correctly (variable valve lift and timing systems use oil pressure to operate).

Incorrect oils (quick lube bulk vs. semi or full synthetics for example) often led to sludging problems within the first 100k, similar engines would still be clean on factory spec (Mobil 1) at several hundred thousand miles. 10-15k intervals on conventional and the cartridge filters came out with oil like a jello mold.
 
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