Cleaning up floorpans/trunkpan

jason99

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 20, 2018
Messages
524
Reaction score
350
Location
Atlanta, GA
I have some rust on the floor and trunk pan of my project car, but nothing that seems to need more than light resurfacing and I'm trying to figure out the best way to clean it up.

I've seen threads where people just hit it with a wire brush, some marine clean, and POR15 it, but that seems like it might be in cases where the rust is much worse.

Should I try to use a rust dissolver as referenced in this thread Rust Dissolving liquids? or plan on attacking it by grinding with something like one of these 3M discs Rust never sleeps....

When I do get all the rust off it, what are some options to paint/coat it? I do not have a paint gun.

Here's a picture of the worst of the floopans and the trunk.
IMG_0353.jpg
IMG_0535.jpg
 
Yeow. That's pretty nasty back there.
Attack it aggressively with a wire wheel on an angle grinder to see what you end up with first. Then make a decision on Step 2.
 
I think the trunk looks worse than it actually is as I haven't had a chance to vaccum and wash that out like I did with the floorpans. As far as wire wheels, just something like this?

upload_2018-7-31_14-17-1.png
 
You never know till you go at it with all sorts of tools. Follow up with a pick hammer (lite taps), you will know if it is bad.

Before
2010-08-30_014.jpg

Cleaned
2010-08-31_004.jpg

After
2011-04-25_001.jpg
 
Fair assumption that you had to cut out and replace the red section?
Correct, I replaced that piece, last repair I did before handing it off. My body guy started here.

As you can see the rest of the floor was solid and it looked as bad as yours.
2012-08-18_011.jpg



Alan
 
Started on the trunk today.

First just hit it with a stiff bristle brush and a shop vac to get the chunks out.
IMG-0553.JPG


Then got after it with a 4.5in angle gringer with a polycarbonate abrasive pad from Harbor Freight. Bad lighting makes those black spots look like holes, but they aren't. There are few holes by the rearmost plugs and a few more in the upper right quadrant, all are less than a quarter inch I'd say.
IMG-0554.JPG


I soaked some paper towels in Evapo Rust and covered them in plastic and will let that sit for a bit to see where it ends up.
IMG-0559.JPG


IMG-0560.JPG
 
Went at it with the angle grinder using a polycarbonate abrasive bad, a twisted wire cup, and a twisted wire wheel. Front floor pans are better than I thought, trunk is worse.

I'm giving them all another bath with Evaporust / Metal Rescue, but after that I'm not sure what I should do to protect them. Based on what I've read hitting them with Eastwood Fast Etch, then a pre paint solvent, then primer might be the way to go for now. Thoughts?

IMG_0572.JPG


IMG_0573.JPG


IMG_0574.JPG
 
I use the Fast Etch on a lot of small parts when I am detailing to keep from flash rusting. Plus it should kill any remaining rust and leave a phosphate coating. If left on too long before rinsing with Pre it will eat the rest of your paint as well.
I am not a primer expert, but if you will be cutting and welding patches in a welding primer should work.
 
A lil food for thought.

May/may not be applicable for your needs.

View attachment 205409

Thanks for the link, there was a ton of good stuff in there.

The way I read it you used the following process:
1-Wire brush
2-Skyco - OSPHO
3-PC-7 & drywall fiberglass tape
4-Rustoleum Deck & Concrete Restore 10x
5-Zolatone Trunk Spatter
6-Clearcoat

Looks like the Ace Hardware down the street has the OSPHO, so I'll check that out.

For your choice of PC-7, fiberglass, and deck restore, why that instead of POR-15 and fiberglass like others used? I'm trying to understand where you saw the value in the additional step/product?
 
Fair enough. Do you think your method ended up looking better, was cheaper, and/or more durable than a more direct approach?
 
Fair enough. Do you think your method ended up looking better, was cheaper, and/or more durable than a more direct approach?
There were only three choices.
1. Replace the trunk pan. For me, an impossibility.
2. Patch the trunk pan with huge sections. My welding skills would have made it look like ****.
3. Do what I actually did. It was economical, durable and looks fantastic. It will look good for a very, very long time I think.
You saw in that thread how every possible approach was discussed.
 
I should have been more specific, I definitely understand why a full replacement or welding wasn't an option. It also isn't for me.

What I was trying to get a better handle on is why the PC7/tape/concrete coating vs POR15 + tape. I appreciate your perspective and realize I may be over analyzing this.
 
I should have been more specific, I definitely understand why a full replacement or welding wasn't an option. It also isn't for me.

What I was trying to get a better handle on is why the PC7/tape/concrete coating vs POR15 + tape. I appreciate your perspective and realize I may be over analyzing this.
POR15 is a paint. I wanted something hard as steel.

proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi61.tinypic.com%2F2vxezb6.jpg
 
Back
Top