Original a/c setup versus going all new on a 71 fury

LOL! No rush! Does your evaporator ice up or freeze now or last summer?
 
LOL! No rush! Does your evaporator ice up or freeze now or last summer?

Hasn't yet. That's why it hasn't been Mission Critical.
In the mean time, I've been randomly searching around for a picture that will give me an idea exactly where to insert the probe. Would hate to drill into some plumbing. lol

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I switched my '76 Corvette to R-134 two years ago. It cools very well. I was going to replace all components anyway so I went ahead and did the conversion from R-12. By going to R-134 I can have it charged and worked on at my local mechanic. Likewise if I am travelling with the car, any shop can fill or work on the system. I used a pro6ten compressor that is polished. It looks fantastic and is 10lbs lighter than the old black GM compressor that was original.

When the time comes I will do the conversion my '68 Fury as well. I want to keep the RV2 compressor though. I like it. Just my two cents!
 
They are indestructable. A few lbs. doesn't matter in our land yachts.
I love these guys that go aluminum heads to save weight in C-bodies. WTF....
Like the 300 lb. guy who puts Splenda in his coffee while wolfing down a sausage, home fries, fried eggs, and bicuits & gravy breakafast.
 
Have to unbolt that monster and move it a damn half inch to get to to the thermostat bolts. You would figure that they would of moved it over a half inch by 1978.
 
Have to unbolt that monster and move it a damn half inch to get to to the thermostat bolts. You would figure that they would of moved it over a half inch by 1978.

The A/C bracket is notched so that you are supposed to be able to get at the thermostat housing bolt.
BUT...
Some engineer effed up pretty bad. The notch is too small and not located correctly in the real world where people live.
When you take off the bracket, hog out the notch with a grinding wheel.
 
The A/C bracket is notched so that you are supposed to be able to get at the thermostat housing bolt.
BUT...
Some engineer effed up pretty bad. The notch is too small and not located correctly in the real world where people live.
When you take off the bracket, hog out the notch with a grinding wheel.


LOL! Good idea. Next time maybe. Damn it, there better not be a next time! LOL!
 
Well, the Fury A/c is up and running, blowing 50 degrees at the vents. Advance Auto supplied the rebuilt compressor, clutch and expansion valve( about $260). We used 3 cans of system flush (about $18 per can) to clean components prior to assembly and changed all O rings. A new receiver dryer was added for about $30 on ebay. Two new belts were about $35 at NAPA. My friend with the a/c expertise pressurized the system at 60 lbs for a day with nitrogen to make sure there were no leaks. After evacuating the system, he decided to use R 414B "Hot Shot" instead of R 134a. The 414B is supposed to cool better at lower system pressure. Here is a snippet from the A/C guys about this refrigerant:
http://www.refrigerants.com/refrigerants_detail.aspx?id=R-414B
My friend refused to take any money for the gas so the total cost to get the original system up and running was about $360.
 
50 degrees is as good as it's going to get w/o R12 or going to to a HO Sanden. For $360.00, you got a bargain.
 
50 degrees is as good as it's going to get w/o R12 or going to to a HO Sanden. For $360.00, you got a bargain.

A bargain indeed! Flush, compressor, clutch, dryer and belts all for $360 plus free gas and install..... You must be livin right!

I've noticed that hot shot and 134 are both getting kind of pricey. I've been getting R12 for between $16 and $20 bucks a can.... If i buy a a few at a time. Last time I priced 134 for my more "modern" car it was up to $13 a can.

Any one out there try the freezit or maxi frig concoctions that are supposed to be a freon replacement?
 
Personally, I think all these refrigerants with super techie cliche names all work about the same.

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A bargain indeed!
Last time I priced 134 for my more "modern" car it was up to $13 a can.

Any one out there try the freezit or maxi frig concoctions that are supposed to be a freon replacement?

I just paid $15 for a can of R-134A, plus $10 deposit. They also need a special adapter (no more needle puncture), at least in CA. R-134A is now "bad", since a potent green-house gas. It also forms phosgene gas when it burns, which the Germans used in WWI.

That was for our 96 Voyager. I converted my 65 Newport w/ York compressor to R-134A ~1997, but switched to Duracool ~2002 after trying it in my Mercedes. It is a butane mixture and works slightly better than R-12, so you run much less pressure than w/ R-134A. I am tempted to change my Voyager to that since it is cheaper than R-134A and it is needing a can each year now.

But read up first, since there are many imagined horrors with using hydro-carbon refrigerants, though no actual incidents I ever read. The EPA's website has humorous reading about it. In theory, a meteor might fall on your head too.
 
Found this old thread in doing research for my A/C rebuild. If the OP Jimserra is still around, did your repairs all work out for the long term?
 
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