Convertible 1/4 window motor replacement

[Zymurgy]

I had a productive day today. I received some replacement power window motors. Someone here recommend this place on Ebay, Chrysler motor for $25 and free shipping. WINDOW LIFT MOTOR (NEW) fits: CHRYSLER FIFTH AVE IMPERIAL LEBARON NEW YORKER | eBay

I basically followed the 1966 SM which said to remove the regulator assembly and motor together, with the window in a down position, which was good because my window was in the down position.

The manual however only said there were 4 bolts to remove, this is not true. Thanks to @mr. fix it ,which I messaged back and forth today and earlier this week, gave some idea what to expect. You will have to loosen the front vertical track for the window and remove back horizontal guide track for the 3rd arm of the regulator assembly. The PO also cut a hole as pictured which definitely made this process easier.

Then you must set the assembly in a vise when removing the motor because of the load of the spring.

With the motor removed you will need to take the reduction gear, bottom bracket, and splice in the old harness connector to the new motor.

I cleaned and greased all the contact points and tracks. I was lucky all my rollers were in excellent shape, so time to reassemble . I marked everything when I removed it, to get the track back into the same position, no adjustment on the 1/4 window was needed and still matched up perfect with the front window.

I will replace the other side now too. Both sides would not go up with out my assistance. This is the first time since I have owned Goldie, that the window went up on is own.

 

[live4theking]

Very nice to have fully functioning windows.

 

[Zymurgy]

My right motor finally completely crapped out and couldn't get it to move at all, so it finally forced me to replace them.

It has been on my list of things to do for 6 years.

 

[mr. fix it]

Thankfully in one way it's easier with manual but not at the same time if I'm caught in a cloud burst...
simple regulator replacement of service usually requires little to no adjustment.
again mine is a major gut and restore so I will have lots of adjusting to do.

Looks great Mike!

 

[rexus31]

Good job, Mike. As discussed, I had access to the bolts for the window motor when I did mine and replaced both motors with the window in the up position without removing the regulators. Even so, it was a PITA and a job I hope I never have to do again. Out of curiosity, why did you go with remanufactured motors instead of brand new units? The new units come with many pigtails, one of which is the later style connectors your car uses. They are good for front or rear windows. I also bought a set for the front windows for my car but will wait until my originals start failing before I replace them.

For reference:
Driver: Dorman Power Window Motors 742-300
Passenger: Dorman Power Window Motors 742-301

Brand new:

 

[detmatt]

I also left the regulator in the body and swapped motors. You have to remove the bolts that hold the regulator to get enough room to put a vice grip on it (vice) and also the window needs to be up.
Good job Mike!

 

[Zymurgy]

Good job, Mike. As discussed, I had access to the bolts for the window motor when I did mine and replaced both motors with the window in the up position without removing the regulators. Even so, it was a PITA and a job I hope I never have to do again. Out of curiosity, why did you go with remanufactured motors instead of brand new units? The new units come with many pigtails, one of which is the later style connectors your car uses. They are good for front or rear windows. I also bought a set for the front windows for my car but will wait until my originals start failing before I replace them.

For reference:
Driver: Dorman Power Window Motors 742-300
Passenger: Dorman Power Window Motors 742-301

Brand new:
View attachment 270177 View attachment 270179

I didn't realize when I ordered these they were re manufactured motor without reduction gear, if I had realize it I would have ordered the Summit motors.

Fortunately my gears where very good shape and I just moved them over to the new motor.

I greatly improved my removal time to a half hour. When you remove it all intact there is no need for any cutting on the body.

The key to my quick removal was also remove the blue circle bolts, which will disconnect a horizontal rear track, and a vertical front track, what I didn't do yesterday was then drop the glass down and pushed out. The red circled bolt holds the assembly the comes right out.

 

[Geoffrey A Hetrick]

Good job, Mike. As discussed, I had access to the bolts for the window motor when I did mine and replaced both motors with the window in the up position without removing the regulators. Even so, it was a PITA and a job I hope I never have to do again. Out of curiosity, why did you go with remanufactured motors instead of brand new units? The new units come with many pigtails, one of which is the later style connectors your car uses. They are good for front or rear windows. I also bought a set for the front windows for my car but will wait until my originals start failing before I replace them.

For reference:
Driver: Dorman Power Window Motors 742-300
Passenger: Dorman Power Window Motors 742-301

Brand new:
View attachment 270177 View attachment 270179

Will these motors work on a 1967 Chrysler 300 2 door HT?

 

[Zymurgy]

Will these motors work on a 1967 Chrysler 300 2 door HT?

Yes