power brake booster question

Thanks for the replay, been real busy and haven't had a chance to respond. I'm confused with the manual brake pedal modification needed to work with a power brake booster could you clarify what I need to do to make it work? Unfortunately I have been looking and I cant find a power brake pedal. I really appreciate your help
 
I don't have both side by side to compare the differences but the manual brake pedal assembly has the pivot point hole in a slightly different location than the PB version.
Reasoning is that you require less pedal force to apply the brakes than manual.

If you take time searching here there are threads on a few members drilling & re-welding the pivot point hole when they either couldn't locate a PB pedal or wanted to save a few bucks.
 
No push rod or backing plate. Hoping I can use or modify my existing plate ? I didn't think about push rod, does this come with the power booster or will I need to source one?
 
I remember being advised to get it all as the P/B will need rebuilding most times & the backing plate was thicker material & position of components was different but i don't know why as it makes no sense.

The backing plate bolts are also in a different location on the firewall if i recall correctly
 
OK thanks,Ill keep looking. this may become a back burner project due to having thank for your help and Ill keep you posted on my progress
 
OK thanks,Ill keep looking. this may become a back burner project due to having thank for your help and Ill keep you posted on my progress
Cool.
When the time is right feel free to contact me or one of the other experts in this area.:thumbsup:
 
on the old 64 the firewall mounting spot had a kind of oval hole----manual brake cylinder sits higher---push rod mounts 1 inch higher on brake pedal---on power master mounts lower and pushrod hits brake pedal lower as well------difference in leverage.....
 
If your not worried about originality then when you plumb up the front and rear circuits just install a manually adjustable pressure valve on each circuit (if it's drum/drum), you can then dial in your braking. When I converted my wagon from power drum to power discs I installed the front disc circuit straight off the master....no pressure valve, the rear circuit I installed an adjustable valve. System works very well.
 
Hello, I know this is an older post but

Hello, I am looking to convert my 1966 Polara 500 383 with console shift from manual, single reservoir brakes to power with dual master cylinder. What did you end up going with on your brake conversion?
Thanks for the help
Tony

View attachment 265668
Did you do the conversion yet? I'm looking to convert FROM power to manual. I've got a 66 300 with factory (I think NOT field installed) booster. If our parts would swap, I'd do it. My booster needs rebuilding but it's all there.
 
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