I use Duralast at present because VatoZone honors their warranty without fuss. This is my 3rd 60 amp dual groove pulley roundback in almost 4 yrs too, so as Dave says, you get what you pay for with this sino-sludge stuff.
I upgraded my charging circuit wiring within a month of buying Mathilda because due to a broken motor mount allowing the alternator charging stud to short out, I had a wiring fire one night. No big deal to me, but most folks would flip out over that sort of ****. I took it all as a matter of course, being happy to drive the car home for little $$.
Anyway, I ran #8 stranded wire to the charging stud right away, and still use it. I purchased a mid 1970s charging stud connector, also #8 AWG, soldered and shrink-wrapped it to the #8 I had run earlier, and am happy with that. I replaced the original, burned wires going to the starter relay in #8 for the relay and dash circuits, and #12 for the voltage regulator. All this is at least 2 sizes larger than what came in the original harness, and I've had no further trouble with this. I also replaced what goes from the bulkhead connector in #12, punching out the old blade connector and running it straight through. For crucial wiring, the fewer connections, the better.
I've put the headlights on 30 amp Tyco-Bosch relays, engaged by the original drivers-side low-beam connector, and separately powered straight from the battery with fused link protection to the line side of the relays, and 30 amp breakers which pop into the 1.25 inch x .25 inch glass fuse holder which originally had 30 amp fuses in it. On the minuscule chance that a short from the loads (headlights) could occur, I decided a breaker would be a bit safer, though I've lost headlights while rolling at night before sans difficulty, but I have extraordinary night eyes.
I wired this harness in #10 AWG, to allow plenty easy current flow.
Apropos of that crucial concept, if you want a 90 amp alternator, I advise you to use at least #4 AWG stranded wire from your alternator post. Use #8 AWG fusible link wire to connect to the alternator post. You could go with #2 AWG for the main charging conductor, and two identical lengths of #10 AWG fusible link wire in parallel to make the proper link for something that heavy, OR install a 100 amp fuse or breaker to protect your charging circuit. I figure for 90 amps, #4 should carry it with the #8 link wire, BUT, if you like to oversize your conductors as I do, you can bump them up a size for peace of mind.
I like the Tuff Stuff line I've seen, but haven't tried this brand so can't tell you anything on any personal empirical basis. I CAN tell you that I've had no major trouble with my charging system since I rewired it, other than the sorry quality of Duralast products. Be that as it may, the local Blottozone staff all know me and happily replace their widgets when I appear with one in hand and scowl on face.....