Alternator putting out over 16 volts

[DeathTrap68]

I recently replaced my alternator, voltage regulator and battery. I start the car, at first i have normal 13.5-14 volts but once i turn on my headlights and highbeams the voltage jumps to high 15s and keeps going into the high 16s.The alternator I purchased from Oreilly is rated at 55 amp, the regulator is a replacement of the OE one which was 35 amp. They also offer a VR that is good for 60 amps.

 

[Davea Lux]

I recently replaced my alternator, voltage regulator and battery. I start the car, at first i have normal 13.5-14 volts but once i turn on my headlights and highbeams the voltage jumps to high 15s and keeps going into the high 16s.The alternator I purchased from Oreilly is rated at 55 amp, the regulator is a replacement of the OE one which was 35 amp. They also offer a VR that is good for 60 amps.

You put the alternator under load by turning on the lights, check the voltage at the battery and you will probably find it to be in the normal 13.5-14 volt range.

Dave

 

[furious70]

Explain how you are measuring the voltage and where?

 

[DeathTrap68]

With Voltmeter across the battery posts.

 

[DeathTrap68]

Even while battery is unplugged, it reads kind of high.

 

[furious70]

Even while battery is unplugged, it reads kind of high.

View attachment 372801

Engine running?

 

[DeathTrap68]

No the car has been off for maybe 4 hours now.

 

[DeathTrap68]

At idle with no accessories on it reads 13.5ish and with headlights on it jump to high 15s and keeps climbing into the 16 volt range.

 

[Big_John]

Use another voltmeter and see what it is.

 

[Sixpactogo]

My guess is a bad voltage regulator. They really don't care about amps. Supposed to regulate the volts to around 14V

 

[DeathTrap68]

I plugged the old one back in (which was known to be bad) and i was only getting 12.3 at the battery. Plugged the new one from oreilly back in and it it charges, but too much. Should i upgrade to the 60 amp VR? The new alternator is a dual field, i have already grounded the second field to the case.

 

[DeathTrap68]

Use another voltmeter and see what it is.

Thats the only one ive got unfortunately

 

[Big_John]

Thats the only one ive got unfortunately

Go buy a cheap Harbor Fright one. $6. Good to have a spare...

 

[DeathTrap68]

Go buy a cheap Harbor Fright one. $6. Good to have a spare...

It would have to be tommorow. The corona virus has HF closing very early nowadays.

 

[Davea Lux]

Did you install a points type regulator or an electronic one?

Dave

 

[DeathTrap68]

Did you install a points type regulator or an electronic one?

Dave

This is the one i bought.


https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...3133/1968/chrysler/newport?q=alternator&pos=0

 

[Sixpactogo]

Try a different voltage regulator. That is what regulates the voltage. I doubt if your meter is lying.

 

[DeathTrap68]

Try a different voltage regulator. That is what regulates the voltage. I doubt if your meter is lying.

Should i try the 60 amp VR? Or stick with the 35 amp that was stock for the car

 

[Sixpactogo]

I would stick with a 35A myself. If that thing should somehow start sending 60 Amps anywhere, I would be getting nervous. I guess I am not aware of a voltage regulator being Amp rated anyway. I had a bad V regulator on one of my cars a few years ago that would work intermittently. It would be working fine for a while then peg the ammeter for a while. It was new but they can fail just as easily as an old one.
Do you have a lot of add-ons that require that much load?
My truck has a 100A alternator but still only a stock voltage regulator so I can't imagine you needing anything like a 60A regulator.

 

[Davea Lux]

This is the one i bought.


https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...3133/1968/chrysler/newport?q=alternator&pos=0

That is the alternator. A lot of the electrical components sold these days are made in China and most of them are crap. Try a different regulator as your alternator is obviously working.

Dave