DeathTrap68
New Member
No add ons at all, besides electric fuel pump but thats it
Alternator putting out over 16 volts
- Thread starter DeathTrap68
- Start date
DeathTrap68
New Member
Its got a lifetime warranty so ill just swap it out tommorow. Probably the best call
I think that you may be a bit confused on some things and could use some additional guidance.
Your alternator is rated at 55 amps. In my opinion going with an alternator with a 55 amp output is when you need to start consider fire safety. Your car's wiring was not designed for more than 45 amps if it is an a/c car. Suggest you make sure your wires are in good shape and not brittle. Upgraded wiring in the charge circuit and an alternator gauge bypass are 2 things that you should consider.
Alternator amperage and voltage are 2 very different things. Voltage regulators DO have a maximum amperage rating. I sell these voltage regulators but am currently out of stock and there is a 2 week back order on them but they are available from others and I highly recommend these:
Mopar Voltage Regulator - Electronic Solid State with Correct Restoration Look | eBay
The manufacturer of this voltage regulator has a 65 amp maximum rating so voltage regulators do have maximum amperage ratings so using one with a 30 or 35 amp rating is likely your problem. If your alternator amperage output exceeds the voltage regulators rating you will "fry" the voltage regulator and when you do that, they typically end up either completely failing or putting out a constant 15 - 16 volts, which is too much and results in an overcharge situation.
A 12-volt system is really a 13.8 volt system. A fully charged battery will be at or around 13.8 volts and that is where you want your voltage at the battery to be with the battery fully charged, the engine running and high draw accessories and headlamps off.
My guess is that your voltage regulator is bad and that you need to have one with a rating that is compatible with your alternator.
Keep in mind that Chrysler routed the charging circuit from the voltage regulator through the bulkhead connector and then through the alternator gauge and then to the battery. Therefore all those connections and wiring need to be in good shape and again, you need to keep in mind that you are putting more amps through the wiring and electrical connectors than they were designed for. I won't run more than a 50 amp alternator with factory wiring that is 50+ years old but that's me and I have heard of far too many electrical fires that were caused by alternator gauge failures.
If you are running an electronic ignition system you MUST use an electronic/solid state voltage regulator. The mechanical points type voltage regulators tend to have a short lifespan with electronic ignition systems.
Sorry for the long post. I hope this helps.
Your alternator is rated at 55 amps. In my opinion going with an alternator with a 55 amp output is when you need to start consider fire safety. Your car's wiring was not designed for more than 45 amps if it is an a/c car. Suggest you make sure your wires are in good shape and not brittle. Upgraded wiring in the charge circuit and an alternator gauge bypass are 2 things that you should consider.
Alternator amperage and voltage are 2 very different things. Voltage regulators DO have a maximum amperage rating. I sell these voltage regulators but am currently out of stock and there is a 2 week back order on them but they are available from others and I highly recommend these:
Mopar Voltage Regulator - Electronic Solid State with Correct Restoration Look | eBay
The manufacturer of this voltage regulator has a 65 amp maximum rating so voltage regulators do have maximum amperage ratings so using one with a 30 or 35 amp rating is likely your problem. If your alternator amperage output exceeds the voltage regulators rating you will "fry" the voltage regulator and when you do that, they typically end up either completely failing or putting out a constant 15 - 16 volts, which is too much and results in an overcharge situation.
A 12-volt system is really a 13.8 volt system. A fully charged battery will be at or around 13.8 volts and that is where you want your voltage at the battery to be with the battery fully charged, the engine running and high draw accessories and headlamps off.
My guess is that your voltage regulator is bad and that you need to have one with a rating that is compatible with your alternator.
Keep in mind that Chrysler routed the charging circuit from the voltage regulator through the bulkhead connector and then through the alternator gauge and then to the battery. Therefore all those connections and wiring need to be in good shape and again, you need to keep in mind that you are putting more amps through the wiring and electrical connectors than they were designed for. I won't run more than a 50 amp alternator with factory wiring that is 50+ years old but that's me and I have heard of far too many electrical fires that were caused by alternator gauge failures.
If you are running an electronic ignition system you MUST use an electronic/solid state voltage regulator. The mechanical points type voltage regulators tend to have a short lifespan with electronic ignition systems.
Sorry for the long post. I hope this helps.
DeathTrap68
New Member
Thanks a bunch, I figured I should have the higher amp VR but I couldnt find a straight answer in any of the forums. I will order the higher amp one and give it a shot. I have already bypassed the ammeter, so thats already accounted for
stubs300
Senior Member
I can see that you're thoroughly confused about what a Alternator and a Voltage Regulator is. You were asked what Regulator you used, and you post a picture of a alternator. I can't help you! Good Luck
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luigi164
Active Member
YOUR must be read as YOU'RE or YOU ARE
I'm pretty sure DeathTrap68 knows the difference but made an upload mistake..
Sixpactogo
Well-Known Member
I think we all know that voltage and amperage are two different things. Having said that, I can't say that I have ever seen an amp rating on a 12 volt regulator. The 12V regulator keeps the voltage constant (13.8-14.4) and the Amps and Ohms are the variables as far as I know. Guess you will have to spell it out for me.
On an electronic regulator, the unit functions by turning the ground circuit to the alternator on and off to maintain a desired voltage in the battery. None of the alternator output cycles thru the electronic voltage regulator. The transistors in the electronic regulator can cycle several thousand times per second so that the circuit does not heat up and burn out, but the circuit needs to be sized to the load. Many electronic regulators do not have an amperage rating per se, but different regulators are usually sized for different outputs of the alternator to accommodate field loads.
On a mechanical voltage regulator, the hot side of the field for the alternator is cycled thru the regulator thru a set of points that open and close to regulate the battery voltage. The larger the capacity of the alternator, the more amperage the field will draw to energize. More amperage to the field means that the points in the regulator need to be a larger size to accommodate the higher load. That is why mechanical regulators have an amperage rating.
Wiring Diagram:
Dave
On a mechanical voltage regulator, the hot side of the field for the alternator is cycled thru the regulator thru a set of points that open and close to regulate the battery voltage. The larger the capacity of the alternator, the more amperage the field will draw to energize. More amperage to the field means that the points in the regulator need to be a larger size to accommodate the higher load. That is why mechanical regulators have an amperage rating.
Wiring Diagram:
Dave
3175375
Senior Member
I concur. The voltage regulator is nothing other than a device that switches a signal to the field of the alternator. This is done with points in the older regulators, and likely uses a transitorized circuit to still switch the signal to the field, but it does so so quickly (100 kilohertz or so), that the field does not have the ability to react quickly enough. Which is why the power with the newer regulators is so much cleaner.
I was involved in programs when I worked where we had to deal with this, and essentially’trick ****’ the old analog generator control circuits by going at such a high frequency that the control circuit couldn’t react quickly enough.
There was a lot of modeling that people who are much smarter than I determined what the control circuit was going to be.
DeathTrap68
New Member
Wrong link, my bad. Thanks anyways
DeathTrap68
New Member
This is the regulator I bought, my bad I had like 10 different tabs open and grabbed the wrong link. On a side note, I work at Oreilly so I hope I would know the difference between a VR and Alternator. Lol
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...68/chrysler/newport?q=voltage+regulator&pos=0
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...68/chrysler/newport?q=voltage+regulator&pos=0
DeathTrap68
New Member
Thank you, I appreciate it
The regulator you bought is probably adequate for you application, you probably just got a bad one. Check the box to see if it was a China Crap unit which would explain why it did not work. If they have a heavier unit go with that.
Dave
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DeathTrap68
New Member
Most of our parts are usually china, taiwan and sometimes mexico. I think youre right, it might just be a bad one. I will swap it out tommorow when I have some free time and keep everyone updated. Thank you all for the positive input!
stubs300
Senior Member
Obviously, I can see that you're a person that doesn't pay attention to what you're doing!!! Disagree all you want about it, but if you provide wrong info, expect to get the wrong replies to help you fix your problem. Which are beyond my control! I'm done with this guy! Good Luck
DeathTrap68
New Member
I dont think you brought much to the table in the first place, everyone else looked past the mistake but you. Like I said, honest mistake. Not disagreeing at all that I posted the wrong link lol. But hey thanks anyways man
Then I guess you learned something new today because the manufacturer of the voltage regulators that I sell lists a maximum of 65 amps.
The photo of the VR in your link is of a mechanical VR. The description says upgraded to solid state in many cases. My guess is that yours was not the upgraded version. The description also lists the application as for a 35 or 46 amp system. If you get another either pull the cover off to see if there is a circuit board inside or look at the bottom and if it looks like the one pictured in your link with the metal bars on the bottom that is a mechanical VR and it is not want you want in my opinion.
jct
Senior Member
I thought the ones with the resistors on the bottom is the mechanical voltage regulator and the solid bars is the solid state
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