1966 Chrysler 300 Valuation

Online "WIW?" questions always bother me. A price from a few pictures and an "ok" description? Basically, a request for a free appraisal. Granted, you've provided much more info and pics than other WIW inquiries have, no doubt! Here's what you should do, @Dodge -

1) A general comment not directed at you @Dodge, since you've covered this well - What is the history of the car? How long have you owned it? Are you the second owner? Third? Fifteenth? Bought from a private party, dealer, or auction?
2) Seek out comparable cars online in various venues, even the auctions. What are they SELLING for, versus the asking price?
3) Do your research! Asking us what we think is one thing. Actually looking for others that have sold is another, and the right thing.
4) Be 100% honest about ALL issues that you are aware about with your car (not saying you aren't here).
5) Hire a non-biased, professional vehicle appraiser to do an honest appraisal on your car, and make sure that appraiser is known by the insurance companies as a knowledgeable individual. Some out there will ask "what do you want this to be worth?" versus doing their job.
6) You will always over-appraise your own car.
7) You likely have a price in mind, if you're selling. After doing most, if not all, of the steps listed, advertise the car! Set a price! If your message inbox is empty, you might have it over-priced; and you can always come down.

I know what I'd give for it, based on what I know on '65 and '66 cars.

Were this 300 mine, I'd keep it and enjoy it! Very nice car you have there.
Thank you so much for your comments, very good advice. For me at least, you hit the nail on the head about "You will always over-appraise your own car", so I decided to reach out to the FCBO community. I have tried to look up what similar cars are selling for, but most are generally not in the shape of mine or have different desirable options such as 440 and red paint etc. I may indeed just take a deep breath and keep her.
 
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I had the same quarter window roller issue on the power windows in my '66 convertible. The roller is not serviceable. It is permanently attached to the aluminum frame in which the window glass resides. I had to buy one from Murray (not cheap) in order to repair my quarter window.

I would suggest you keep this car, fix all the issues and join us at Carlisle on July 9 -11. I'll reserve you a space, a libation of your choice and a seat in the shade. I guarantee you'll have a great time.
I would love to come to Carlisle. Hopefully this year is the year I can finally go. Which part did you end up getting from Murray? The aluminum frame or entire glass assembly?
 
I would love to come to Carlisle. Hopefully this year is the year I can finally go. Which part did you end up getting from Murray? The aluminum frame or entire glass assembly?

I bought the entire glass and frame assembly. It was correct and was even tinted as my original. I have Murray on speed-dial. . .
 
That's a really nice car and you speak of how "amazing" the car drives.

You know what? Keep it. You'll be hard pressed to find something nicer and at the prices we tossed out, the reality is the car has more value as a nice driver with some good history than it has resale value.

And by the time you find a car and fix it up to get it as nice as this car will cost you way more in the long run. Nice car BTW. Good Luck
 
And by the time you find a car and fix it up to get it as nice as this car will cost you way more in the long run. Nice car BTW. Good Luck
You guys are right. Money doesn't go very far these days so restoring cars (especially C-bodies) is almost out of reach for most of us. I called a reputable transmission shop in my area earlier today. Gonna take over to those guys to fix next week. Only thing left is that dreaded window roller, which I guess will take a whole replacement glass assembly. Seems like Chrysler would have made that roller to bolt on and off the glass bracket for easy exchange if it ever broke. :BangHead:
 
Really nice car! Problem is that much of that favorable history will not translate into a "price book" value, but it makes for good conversation and increased value orientations. Kind of like what the used car dealers used to call "cream puff"?

My observation about "value -setting from auction results" can be a bit tricky. Reason is that how the respective auction might go will depend largely upon whom came to that particular auction that particular day. AND that can be highly variable! But some value trends might be determined, with each autcion being its own snap shot in time.

Getting a "professional" appraiser to value the car might end up similar to getting a "professional" home inspection prior to sale. Depends upon how they were trained and oriented, by observation. Some will be more thorough than others or see things others might not see. The title might be universal, but their actions/determinations might not be. But you still get a written report either way, fwiw.

Personally, if I were going to appraise a vehicle, I would approach such an activity with an open mind and knowledge of just how much "age" is apparent on the vehicle. Paint, upholstery, rubber items that will need updating, plus the condition of the hard-to-find items on the car (which can be substantial on those cars). Plus the normal mechanical checks that would normally be done, as the car is started cold and allowed to idle and warm up while doing the evaluation. In addition to the normal checks for rust in known and unusual places on the body.

Additionally, I like cars that are basically unmolested with original paint. Although quality re-paints might add value, you never know what's under that "new paint" without documentation of the pre-paint car. But with a bit more effort, these things can usually be determined.

I concur that the real value of the car might not be reflected in any "book value", although book value can be important. Which can be where "agreed value insurance" can become operative?

Keep it nice. Keep it waxed with a non-abrasive wax (after the first cleaner wax to remove any light paint oxidation), similar with the anodized aluminum trim and chrome items. Keep it operating as it was designed, with updates in all rubber hoses in the fuel system and such, for future longevity. AND, of course, keep it in a locked critter-proof garage venue when not enjoying it on the road!

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Personally, if I were going to appraise a vehicle, I would approach such an activity with an open mind and knowledge of just how much "age" is apparent on the vehicle. Paint, upholstery, rubber items that will need updating, plus the condition of the hard-to-find items on the car (which can be substantial on those cars). Plus the normal mechanical checks that would normally be done, as the car is started cold and allowed to idle and warm up while doing the evaluation. In addition to the normal checks for rust in known and unusual places on the body.

Additionally, I like cars that are basically unmolested with original paint. Although quality re-paints might add value, you never know what's under that "new paint" without documentation of the pre-paint car. But with a bit more effort, these things can usually be determined.

I concur that the real value of the car might not be reflected in any "book value", although book value can be important. Which can be where "agreed value insurance" can become operative?

Keep it nice. Keep it waxed with a non-abrasive wax (after the first cleaner wax to remove any light paint oxidation), similar with the anodized aluminum trim and chrome items. Keep it operating as it was designed, with updates in all rubber hoses in the fuel system and such, for future longevity. AND, of course, keep it in a locked critter-proof garage venue when not enjoying it on the road!

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
I couldn't agree more!
 
Thank you guy's for all of your input and comments on this thread. It is much appreciated. This car is really nice for what it is, I'm blessed to have it. I think I'll keep it and enjoy it.

I thought for the sake of viewing, I'd upload a few more pictures for anyone who would enjoy seeing them.

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d5.JPG
 
Beautiful 300 you have there. I don't know what other irons you have in the fire but I would hang onto something this nice and clean. Ones this nice don't come around too often.
 
Thank you guy's for all of your input and comments on this thread. It is much appreciated. This car is really nice for what it is, I'm blessed to have it. I think I'll keep it and enjoy it.

I thought for the sake of viewing, I'd upload a few more pictures for anyone who would enjoy seeing them.
To put this in dating parlance:
I thought maybe I'd give you my number and we could go out.
I'm really flattered!
But now I think we should just be friends.


I'm with the other guys, Dodge -- if your life is in alignment with it, this car is a keeper.
 
Man, that car is absolutely stunning. I am partial though, since I own her ugly twin sister who got neglected out in the sun and not driven for 38 years. No rust other than sun baked paint surface rust on mine and all the trim is in fantastic shape. It's a labor of love with these cars for sure. They're not E or B bodies. You can't build one from scratch with a Year One catalog and flip is for a 75% profit. The true value lies in the uniqueness and personal satisfaction you get from owning such a classy vehicle. Even in Betty White's (wife named her) condition, I still get stopped every time I drive her in town. There's just something special about these beasts.
20200712_180527.jpg
 
Let me be just say it:
If you want a car, based on what it is and not on what other people tell you to buy, you get a C-body.
If you want to relive the youth you didn't have/couldn't afford, and to be cool to other people, you get a 'bonafide' musclecar-- but the competition is fierce, and no guarantees you'll get to be a cool kid.
 
That upper roller bracket should be bolted on like this.
AF7A877F-0AD6-4BD1-90F4-5D9FE8CA22C1.jpeg
4FCA4AED-1591-4A36-B9D0-555871C92E0A.jpeg

The bottom guide roller that usually breaks first goes in the diagonal slot.
 
Let me be just say it:
If you want a car, based on what it is and not on what other people tell you to buy, you get a C-body.
If you want to relive the youth you didn't have/couldn't afford, and to be cool to other people, you get a 'bonafide' musclecar-- but the competition is fierce, and no guarantees you'll get to be a cool kid.
And in imo the Cs were the best built mopars, had the nicest interiors and a great smooth ride.
If one needs to get his jollies on, rent a new Hemi Charger for a few days.
 
Man, that car is absolutely stunning. I am partial though, since I own her ugly twin sister who got neglected out in the sun and not driven for 38 years. No rust other than sun baked paint surface rust on mine and all the trim is in fantastic shape. It's a labor of love with these cars for sure. They're not E or B bodies. You can't build one from scratch with a Year One catalog and flip is for a 75% profit. The true value lies in the uniqueness and personal satisfaction you get from owning such a classy vehicle. Even in Betty White's (wife named her) condition, I still get stopped every time I drive her in town. There's just something special about these beasts.View attachment 450091
Wow that is my car's twin! I love that name your wife gave your car. My brother and I are big mopar guys. Most people here in middle South Carolina are ford and chevy people. It's always cool when I go to car shows around here and run across someone who appreciates mopars. Now out of the mopar people I run across, only a few are into the C-bodies. My brother and I really love them. And for reasons like you mentioned... you can't just get parts for them out of a catalog, they are very rare; here you almost never see one at a show unless I or he brings it. For me, they are the best classics made. The quality of them, the styling, the ride... incredible! I have two A-bodies and they just feel cheap compared to my 300.

Thank you for showing me your 300. It's awesome!
 
Let me be just say it:
If you want a car, based on what it is and not on what other people tell you to buy, you get a C-body.
If you want to relive the youth you didn't have/couldn't afford, and to be cool to other people, you get a 'bonafide' musclecar-- but the competition is fierce, and no guarantees you'll get to be a cool kid.
I agree 100%. So called "muscle car" prices are out of sight ridiculous IMO. Especially B-bodies. People be nuts with those things. I can't justify the expense. Of course I'm just a regular guy and not wealthy though. What's cool in regards to my 300, that baby's got 325 hp and 425 ft-lb of torque stock. It's not exactly a 'bonafide' muscle car, but I brag about that all the time :D.
 
That upper roller bracket should be bolted on like this.
View attachment 450154 View attachment 450155
The bottom guide roller that usually breaks first goes in the diagonal slot.
That's it! That's the roller that I need. Thank you for those pictures. I haven't taken my glass assembly out yet and it's been impossible to see how that thing is attached. Guess I'll be calling Murray P. BTW, you wouldn't happen to have an extra one laying around that you would sell would you? Just curious.
 
And in imo the Cs were the best built mopars, had the nicest interiors and a great smooth ride.
If one needs to get his jollies on, rent a new Hemi Charger for a few days.
Yes! I was a state trooper for 6 years here in SC and I can tell you, I had my foot in that Hemi from the time I started my shift til the time I got off. I had a '14 Charger. Boy that thing was fast and fun! A lot more fun than the ole Crown Vic I had back in the day.
 
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