Recent content by Blusmbl

Not sure if it's a better or worse solution, but I wired in a bluetooth amp to speakers on the package tray and a dual channel center front speaker as well. There is a little control unit that I hid on the floor, and I can adjust volume from there or my phone itself. If you want to listen to...

Awesome, thanks. So 2 different light sensors depending on the option.

Were they all that size on '67's or did it change at some point during production? I had a '67 and instead of that piece, mine was a much smaller and rounder black dial/knob over in the left corner of the dash next to the windshield. Or was that knob not for auto dimming on mine?

Pulled the engine/trans out of my ‘68 over the last couple days. Trans is getting rebuilt with hardened intput/output shafts, a new ATI converter, and a Griner trans brake. Gotta beef it up for the 540 going in. Found a ton of little issues on disassembly like a leaky p/s box and the insulation...

Awesome build. 600 ft-lbs at 3000 rpm is going to be ridiculous. You could get away with a powerglide with a torque curve like that!

I checked a B body sending unit in my C tank. It's close but not quite the same, you might have to tweak the angle on the float arm and where the pump is very, very slightly, but you should be able to get it to work. Good luck!

I was worried the small-ish primary headers were going to be a restriction, so we actively chose a narrower LSA for the cam because of it to prioritize the midrange, but I then went big with the intake and carb in a hope it would carry the power out a little further. Super happy with it, it's...

Thanks!! 65CopCar, yeah. It’s better suited for an A or B body, but I’ve loved C bodies forever and wanted to take mine up a few notches and still have something semi-reliable that shouldn’t need a ton of maintenance. From what I’ve been told the MS109 is oxegenated and worth 15-20 hp on it’s...

This has been in the making since 2023, but my motor finally went on the dyno yesterday and couldn’t be happier with the results! I spec’d almost everything, a friend assembled it, and it was dynoed here in Detroit at Moran Motorsports. It’s a 540”, 4.5 bore x 4.25 stroke. Callies block, Molnar...

Should be a burnout machine with all of that torque!!

I’m not sure, I haven’t used his kit- just have bought a couple dana 60’s from him and have been happy with everything he sells. My car has a set of Wilwood discs on the rear but I don’t recommend them for daily driver use type vehicles.

Doctor Diff has a kit that allows use of the original style tapered bearings for the rear. Most switch over to green bearings.

I’ve had 2 separate cars (both happened to be C bodies, a 68 300 and a 67 Imperial) plug the sock in the tank. In my experience if it’s ever bad enough to plug that filter, it’s better to just pull the tank completely and either replace or refurbish it. I fought one of them for a month changing...

There is typically a sock filter in the tank, and a canister style filter between the fuel pump on the engine and the carburetor inlet. If you disconnect the line at the carb immediately after the engine was running, you *might* get a small bit of spray but it will be very minor, it is not under...

That will be a little softer than your 383 now at cruise rpm but it shouldn't be too obnoxious to drive, the duration numbers aren't insane and the idle sounds reasonable-ish. I had a '68 Charger with a 440 and 4 speed that had the usual old school build - headers, 0.509 cam, 750 double pumper...