Recent content by bronze turbine

Maybe you need a vented cap?

I just did a quick google search for the specs. 440: 320 ft-lb of torque @ 2000 rpm 400: 305 ft-lb of torque @ 3200 rpm I think most people would notice a difference if that is accurate specs.

I used to use VR-1, it's got all the zinc you need (better off not adding any additives to it). But, being a racing oil, it's not designed to be left in your car for extended periods of time and does not have the ideal amount of detergents and corrosion protection for engines that are driven...

I've done a bit of research and I'd say that the best oil for any of these engines with flat tappet cams is Amsoil classic and hot rod oil. (Amsoil Z-rod).

A 1983 but swapped with a 5.9 magnum engine.

I don't think the fact that it's been rebuilt would have any bearing on the oil level, unless the oil pan or dipstick have been changed.

I'm thinking of something later. I'm thinking of the plate with the waves on it that is pulled against a roller by a spring. A '57 might be different.

Probably it's the spring that's broken.

mopar (02464324AD) (Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.)

Yes, the 4-way flasher is a different flasher.

Probably your valve cover gaskets are leaking oil on to the manifolds.

I can't think of any reason why it would make a difference if the engine is running. Key in the on position with the motor not running everything is the same, except the oil pressure and charging current. How about the 4-way flashers? Do they work normally? I have seen where a bad ignition...

245 is the width of the tire. You would need to know the diameter vs. the diameter of the factory tire. Then, there's calculators on the internet.

I don't believe the 1970 had the option of 14" wheels. Could you put 14" wheels on? Maybe if it didn't have disc brakes. But, 14" tires are really hard to find in that size and there are really no good options. You'd be better off sticking with the 15".

It's a J body.