'66 Chrysler Gauge Cluster

[Boomer]

Been out working inside the car this morning while waiting for things outside to dry of a bit so I can have more quality time with the hood hinge from hell. Between the monsoon rains and overall heat and humidity the last few days, it's like a swamp out there.

Was just running a quick check on the functionality of all things electric inside the car. Have discovered that the only thing in the gauge cluster that works is the ammeter. No idiot lights, no dash lights, no fuel gauge (the one thing I knew didn't work). Don't know if the map light works off the same circuit, but it's out and I can't get my fat knuckles inside to check the bulb. Wife's going to help out there.

Been going cross-eyed staring at the manual, thought I'd check here to see if there is some common link, especially to oil, temp, and other warning lights. Just seems odd they'd all be out. Makes me suspect of the fuel gauge/sender issue also.

At least nothing has caught fire (yet). ;)

 

[Sport Dad]

I had this same problem and it ended up with me having to remove the gauge assemblies and making sure the circuit boards on the backs of each cluster were in working condition (such as pins not broke off, ground making contact, etc.). I found a quick way to find out if the sending unit for the gas tank is working or if you have a break in the wire is to take to wire connection off of the sending unit on the gas tank, stick a piece of wire in it, attach it somehow to the metal of the car and turn the key to "on". If the gauge needle goes to full, it's more than likely the sending unit went bad and you can find these on Ebay.

 

[C-440-300]

Boomer, Do you still have the issue? When I got my first project, it ended up that the entire backside of the cluster gauge circuit board was corroded and needed TLC with a clean up and solder job. My light switches all worked. Most of the bulbs worked. I took off bulkhead wire holders from engine side and sprayed electrical cleaner and replaced it, repeated a few times. Bypassed amp meter by shorting both terminals together; threw 6 gauge charging wire from alt to battery (real copper). Then, one by one, from trunk light through the cabin, cleaned up any grounding, etc. Map light switch took apart and refurbished the rocker/contact surfaces... Years, now, later, all LEDs, except the headlights. Beautiful light bluish glow on the console/dash, including the clock and radio lights. There are no more incandescent and I replaced the flasher with an LED flasher unit. It's all worth it. Good luck.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Boomer, Do you still have the issue? When I got my first project, it ended up that the entire backside of the cluster gauge circuit board was corroded and needed TLC with a clean up and solder job. My light switches all worked. Most of the bulbs worked. I took off bulkhead wire holders from engine side and sprayed electrical cleaner and replaced it, repeated a few times. Bypassed amp meter by shorting both terminals together; threw 6 gauge charging wire from alt to battery (real copper). Then, one by one, from trunk light through the cabin, cleaned up any grounding, etc. Map light switch took apart and refurbished the rocker/contact surfaces... Years, now, later, all LEDs, except the headlights. Beautiful light bluish glow on the console/dash, including the clock and radio lights. There are no more incandescent and I replaced the flasher with an LED flasher unit. It's all worth it. Good luck.

VEERY Sensible! I too am replacing all incandescent lights with LEDs. Need to eventually get an instrument panel back into the dash, I suppose. Got the ash trays, extra gauges all on good LEDs. I like blue light myself.

 

[C-440-300]

VEERY Sensible! I too am replacing all incandescent lights with LEDs. Need to eventually get an instrument panel back into the dash, I suppose. Got the ash trays, extra gauges all on good LEDs. I like blue light myself.View attachment 484784

I bet that looks really cool at night. Earlier Chryslers products had that blueish "jet fighter" (my words) glow. BTW, I forgot to mention that before I shorted the amp g, I took notice of the discharge difference before and after the LEDs - hardly moved with LEDs - you could leave the door/trunk/map lights on way longer with the same battery/engine off. And, w/ trn signals blinkin', no light dimming. Get to keep the same cheap local parts store alternator, too! My next project is to add a hidden emergency light flasher. Best regards.