Is this thingy supposed to go into that thingy?

73Polara360

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Removed the air cleaner for the first time today and just noticed this, are they supposed to be plugged into one another, and what are they? 360la 1973 Polara
Thank you

PXL_20250821_215511589.MP.jpg
 
The capped off line is to the EGR valve in the photo. A lot of them are unhooked at this point because many of them carboned up and leaked all the time resulting in poor performance.

Dave
 
If they do carbon up and leak taking the vacuum hose off won't fix it. You can remove it and clean it out so it will close again.

Many folks don't know what they are doing and just disconnect emissions things for something to do.
 
If they do carbon up and leak taking the vacuum hose off won't fix it. You can remove it and clean it out so it will close again.

Many folks don't know what they are doing and just disconnect emissions things for something to do.
Is there any benefit to running it aside from environmental benefits? And I'll have to look again but just looking at my picture it seems like I just undo a couple of bolts and slap a new one on much like a thermostat housing? And remove the golf tee and plug it in?
 
Is there any benefit to running it aside from environmental benefits? And I'll have to look again but just looking at my picture it seems like I just undo a couple of bolts and slap a new one on much like a thermostat housing? And remove the golf tee and plug it in?
The purpose of the EGR valve was to lower combustion temperatures by introducing some exhaust gasses into the intake manifold. Modern moonshine blend gasoline with 10% ethanol added results in increased carbon build up which blocks the seat on the EGR valve from sealing properly. Yes you can remove the old unit if it is defective and replace it with a new one but you will still have the same carbon problem down the road. There are EGR block off kits online which solves the problem permanently.

Dave
 
It was common to plug the EGR vac hose back then, keeping the valve closed. Better throttle response, especially off-idle , as things got back to normal from what it was with the EGR valve operational.

It would be more incognito to put a ball bearing into the vac line where it plugs onto the valve. THEN plug the hose back onto the valve. Nobody's the wiser.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Chrysler did build a block-off plate for the light-duty pickup truck models (initially with a GVW over 6100 lbs, plus the heavier-duty pickups) to replace the EGR valve assy. A simple plate with a gasket to seal things up. Might be in some of the Edelbrock or Holley parts listings.
 
If its been plugged like that for a long time, it's certainly not likely to start working now if you decide to reconnect the hose. If the car runs OK, I'd leave it just like it is.
 
Is there any benefit to running it aside from environmental benefits? And I'll have to look again but just looking at my picture it seems like I just undo a couple of bolts and slap a new one on much like a thermostat housing? And remove the golf tee and plug it in?

You can use lower octane gasoline if it's working correctly due to lower combustion temperatures.
 
The lowering of combustion temperature was needed to reduce the production of Nox. The secondary effect was that it also reduced the tendency to ping under load. Some engines neede it others didn't.

I had a customer that brought in his car for a tune up and he complained about it pinging when he accelerated. During the tune up I found a ball bearing in the hose to the EGR valve. After removing it the ping went away. A few days later he returned saying the pinging had come back. Sure enough he had plugged the EGR line with another ball bearing.

Some people just can't leave things alone. If it's emission control it must be bad. Unplug the electrical connections to the computer controlled carburetor, Disable or remove any form of air injection, disable vacuum advance, remove heated air intake to the air cleaner, unplug knock sensor and on and on.

In the begining attempts to reduce smog was geared to reducing hydrocarbons only. It was only after several years of running extemely lean mixtures that it was discovered that they were actually making smog worse as the leaness was actually increasing the Nox in the atmoshere and that it was responsible for the yellow air over cities. It was around 1986 that everone got a handle on all the emissions coming out the tail pipe.
 
The lowering of combustion temperature was needed to reduce the production of Nox. The secondary effect was that it also reduced the tendency to ping under load. Some engines neede it others didn't.

I had a customer that brought in his car for a tune up and he complained about it pinging when he accelerated. During the tune up I found a ball bearing in the hose to the EGR valve. After removing it the ping went away. A few days later he returned saying the pinging had come back. Sure enough he had plugged the EGR line with another ball bearing.

Some people just can't leave things alone. If it's emission control it must be bad. Unplug the electrical connections to the computer controlled carburetor, Disable or remove any form of air injection, disable vacuum advance, remove heated air intake to the air cleaner, unplug knock sensor and on and on.

In the begining attempts to reduce smog was geared to reducing hydrocarbons only. It was only after several years of running extemely lean mixtures that it was discovered that they were actually making smog worse as the leaness was actually increasing the Nox in the atmoshere and that it was responsible for the yellow air over cities. It was around 1986 that everone got a handle on all the emissions coming out the tail pipe.

Using a ball bearing is quite risky in the event that it gets sucked into the engine. Why not just stick with the tried-n-true golf tee?

The only emissions equipment I advocate for removal is the very early 70s distributor advance retard (in the form of a solenoid on the vac advance unit), or a vacuum delay valve which replaced this solenoid in '73.

vacuum advance.jpg
 
The ball bearing should be the same size or slightly bigger than the vacuum hose-that way you have to use some force to get it into the hose, and the friction will prevent it from moving anywhere. As was pointed out previously, the EGR is a emission control device that reduces NOx. Many people said that they removed it without any problems. NOx emissions cause smog-period (as well as breathing problems for humans). All it takes to prevent it is to drop cylinder temperatures below the thresh-hold of around 2500-3500 degrees. The car manufacturers found they could get back some of the performance loss by adding additional ignition timing (leanburn in the mid '70s). Too much causes ping. The reality is that valve reduced an emission with very little effect on drive-ability, unless it wasn't working correctly to begin with. Sometimes the valve would stick open, which would cause stalling (EGR should only work off idle). Does this car have a vacuum amplifier that is the vacuum circuit before the EGR? Chrysler did have a lot of problems with that-causing the valve to stay open at idle.
 
The car runs great with it disconnected, great oomph and pedal response and no pinging so I will likely not replace it or attempt to get a new EGR valve on there. Reading the explanations and various experiences with regards to this was very informative. It's likely stuck open or closed and when plugged in causing an issue and the fix was to plug it, OR, someone got over-zealous and thought they were increasing horsepower by unplugging it. At this stage in the game as the car runs well I don't think I care to plug it in especially since it sounds like there's a possibly this equipment could cause it to run lean.
 
On some occasions, disabling an EGR valve can cause exhaust popping on deceleration.....mostly a manual trans thing, but, I've had it happen with an automatic too.
 
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