Is it worth getting heads checked?

mrzods13

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about to put a new cam lifters springs in my chrysler 383 68. Called the local machine shop to get a price they said it is wise to get hardened seats put in being it is when they used leaded gas. For milling, valve job and hardened seats its up to $500 does that sound about right. Figure I would be safe and get them checked and I would like to replace the head gaskets.
 
Interestingly, I asked about the same thing when I looed at my engine a few weeks ago.
the local rebuilder told me that if I had plans to really work this engine then the hardened seats would be a neccessary thing to do.
but for just cruising around, it would not be a "Got to do it" requirement.
 
Well I'm not planning on racing but I will get on it and stuff I want to be able to stomp on it once in a while. Another guy I called said $425 for everything plus $80 for the hardened seats and if it has to be milled it is around $165 more so around $700 for valve job freeze plug replacement hot dip disassembly reassembly painting magnaflux and hardened seats.
 
That's the same I paid last year for the same work.
 
He also does the freeze plugs as well thats included in the $425. Brass ones. It sounds like a decent price
 
Hardened seats are a good idea regardless, its just good insurance, also when you consider what its costing all up, that a pretty good price for it all. i would say yes go for it and make it happen. Its always better to be safe than sorry, consider the fact that yes unleaded built motors all have hardened seats for a reason.
 
Sorry guyz but I can't stay quite on this one. Guess you've gotta ask yourselves if you wanna gamble on doing it twice in ah way too short period of time. Ah couple thingz I've learned over my life time of playing with Mopars. Mrzods13, Your '68 more then likley has 906 heads on it. In normal use over the life time of an engine they are known to warp! It's also possible that one or both will have a cracked rocker shaft pedestal or a cracked valve guide. These things are both fixable but not cheap or easy. Hardened seats are and have been necessary to protect the heads from damage that will be caused by lead free gas. Lead has been the lubricant that was used to cushion the valves from hammering on the valve seats and that's been going on since internal combustion enginsz have been around. Lead started dissapearing when your car was 4-5 years old so you've been doing some damage for ah while without even knowing it! Just the exhaust valves need the hardened seats so you're lookin' at 8 of 'um. You also want to have those heads "Magnafluxed" an inspected before you start spending any money. You SHOULD HAVE the mating surface to the block machined flat! It shouldn't take more then a couple Thousands on each head. If it takes 10 or more thousands to get 'um flat your life just got more diffacult.(the angle has now been changed and your intake manifold will now have to be machined on both mating surfaces to the heads or it will not seal! mr. fix it, I'd look for an engine builder that will not blow smoke up your back side. No body ever said this hobby waz cheap. Only said theirz right and wrong wayz to do stuff to keep thingz at a minimum. Good luck on your respective journeys, Jer
 
Why not find a set of 400 heads which already have hardened seats and they flow about the same. Everything will bolt onto them. even if they need to be gone through you will come out cheaper.
 
The guy seemed pretty cool, I have had friends deal with him and he is highly recommended, I will ask him to do the magnaflux and if he sees something isn't right then stop and I guess I will have to get new heads. Think buying the edelbrock 2086 top end kit is a better idea, i have the comp cams k21-223-4 kit that I bought and didn't bother cracking the seal on it yet because I needed some advice. I want something that I can use my stock rockers with, I know the pushrods would have to be replaced but just wanted a little more power nothing crazy.
 
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I was looking at the Edelbrock e street heads 5090 and pairing it with the comp cam 21-223-4 268h. I would like to pair it with the edelbrock 1805 I bought and this manifold: 20140208_134640.jpg

20140208_134640.jpg
 
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I think if this is a stock 383 then the factory heads are th better choice. Get them done, the shop you talked to was accurate. Honestly for a set of iron heads I'll pay $1200 for everything, so I'd say you're getting a fair deal. The top end package is too much head for what you have, and what you plan to do, and will cost a lot more than the heads. You also have the special head gaskets, and the ARP bolts, nevermind having the heads checked and corrected which I consider mandatory. If you want to spend get a Performer RPM intake, get the heads redone, and stick that cam in it. I think you'll be happy and not break the bank.
 
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