Terrible gas mileage on mopar 318. 5MPG!?!?!?!?

Fill your tank, write down the odo reading on the bill. Drive. At some point, maybe when the tank is 1/2 full, go fill it again. Take note of the odo reading. Now you know how far you drove, and how much gas you used.

If you have a portable or car GPS, use it to see if your odo and speedo are giving you the right numbers. A few minutes on the highway and a co-pilot should be all you need for that.
 
Fill your tank, write down the odo reading on the bill. Drive. At some point, maybe when the tank is 1/2 full, go fill it again. Take note of the odo reading. Now you know how far you drove, and how much gas you used.

If you have a portable or car GPS, use it to see if your odo and speedo are giving you the right numbers. A few minutes on the highway and a co-pilot should be all you need for that.
Look at my post on 16
 
Well, first of all, Hollew Brawler carbs are tuned for "raw bare knuckled performance" (Holley's own words), so I would expect that they traded some fuel consumption in order to achieve that.

Second point : 600 cfm is a little too big for a 318.
As a reminder the rule of thumb is: (cid x max rpm) / 3456
So for a 318 that would not go beyond 5000 rpm this yields 460 cfm.
 
No real need to run the tank empty, just fill it up, drive until the needle gets to the bottom side of the 1/2 mark, refill then. You can do the same at the 1/4 mark too. Knowing those two refill capacities, should be enough to confidently drive the car, I would suspect. You will also notice it can take a while for the needle to drop from "past Full" at a refill, too. Notice all of these things as they happen. Then, only drive to 1/4 and not lower, as a general rule. Not to forget the massive amount of money it takes to buy 20+ gallons of gas at the current prices!

The main thing I see is your choice of carburetor. I suspect that something like an Edelbrock AVS2 would provide better results. The Brawler, from what I have seen, has lots of adjustability in it (air bleeds and all), but is not really designed for a "fuel economy" carburetor, or one which can get good fuel economy out of the box, as the Edelbrock/Carter carbs usually do. On the other hand, there are better choices from Holley, too. Just my observations, no more, no less.

What you should aim for is a carburetor which provides quick starts, efficient cruise, and good throttle response. No need for large throttle movements (which decrease vac advance in the process) to get things going or to change speed, just the opposite. Brisk acceleration (part throttle) "to speed", but then a steady cruising speed if possible. The OEM-spec Holleys I've had on several cars will do these things.

From the experiences of others in this forum and other forums, that "new sending unit" will probably NOT fix your tank level issue. Lots of work for little to no gain. NOR will it read any more accurately, by observation, either. Save your money and effort. DO ensure the sending unit is grounded to the fuel line, via the special fuel line clamp Chrysler used back there. Or replicate it with some hose clamps and a piece of wire with the insulation stripped from the ends. Just the observed nature of things. DO check the three sections of rubber fuel line between the tank and the fuel pump, to ensure they are not leaking/seeping, then evaporating, leaving no traces of leaks.

In order to get a good check on fuel economy, fill the tank and go for a 100 mile highway trip at 60mph or 70mph, on flat roads at a constant speed. Then refill the tank by the same method as before. That will give you a much better idea of how well things are working. Then go from there.

I have no issues with your intake manifold. A single point distributor is fine as long as the dwell is set correctly (which can get to be a problem with a high mileage distributor, from my experiences). I like NGK V-power spark plugs (and the later Iridium fine wire plugs, too), but I can also modify normal spark plugs to get similar performance out of them.

I see no issues with a 600cfm carb on a 318 engine, from my experiences with a 600 Holley on a Chevy 305. In theory, at WOT, the Holley vac secondaries only open enough to fill airflow needs, according to them. Highway cruise is not using them, anyway. Many 318s had 2bbls with 1.44" primary throttle bores, the Holley 600s have 1.56" throttle bores and efficient venturi clusters in them, so no real issues there, either. FWIW

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
I agree with CBODY67. Putting a new sending unit in will not guarantee an accurate gauge. I put a brand new on in and with the tank filled it went to just above 3/4. I just learned how my particular gauge read till I had a chance to pull the sender back out and tweak the float arm a wee little bit down so that the float would rise a little high. Now it goes to beyond full and all the way down to empty. I'm not much of a gambler so when it hits 1/4 I start thinking about filling up.

I guess my point is if the sending up is in decent shape try adjusting it because a new one doesn't guarantee accuracy.
 
First off, if the carb is mech secondary (I didn't look yours's up), switch to vac secondary carb. Unlike many on this site, I like Holley's, but on the street for a performance 318 I would be running a traditional 1850 vac secondary 600 cfm. The carb size would be fine with the vac controlled secondary.

Make sure you are also running a distributor with vac advance and it works. And really for a performance application, or just for the sake of reliability and simplicity, I would certainly be running an electronic ignition package, it was standard from '72 on. The package from Rick E. for about $160 works good. ForMOPAR 273 340 360 318 HiPo Electronic Ignition Kit Plymouth Dodge NOS Tan Cap | eBay
 
On the 1972 Barracuda that I purchased new (and still have) the electronic ignition was an option that I added. Was electronic ignition standard on C bodies in 72? I know that A, B, and E bodies came standard with points in 1972.
 
Electronic ignition became optional in later '71, I believe, or maybe for the full '72 model year? But by the later half of the '72 model year, it was standard on everything. Smart dealers ordered it on all of their cars, as a very popular/salesble option. Remember the firehoses pointed at the distributor as the car started?

Seems like first appearances were on HP 4bbl motors, later on everything. Thereby giving the impression that it was a "high performance" option, which most people wanted, plus the "no maintenance" issues. What could be better? No maintenance with better performance.

Other than the obvious "no points" issue, a side issue is no side loads on the shaft bushings. Which means they don't wear out nearly as much, if at all.

CBODY67
 
I suspect a combination of things. Some of them parts selection and some of them tune dial in.

Who installed and degreed in the cam?

Most of the new sending units I install now need the float arm extended because of limited swivel travel and then bent to taste.
 
You have a miss and wondering about crappy mileage?

Why would you ever need to rebuilt a Mopar 318 at 86k, it's barely even broke in.


holley brawler 600cfm 66 main jets
If you want decent gas mileage, run a stock intake with 2bbl.
i have already checked the oil and im not dealing with a (internal or external)leaky fuel pump because my oil never goes up.
If you were leaking enough fuel into the crankcase to explain 5mpg, the engine would fill up with gas within minutes and probably explode.
 
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I am prepared to redo all of the fuel lines i do think my issue is at the sending unit
Gas mileage is completely unaffected by sending unit.

Gas mileage is miles driven divided by gallons used, 100 miles, 10 gallons, 10 mpg.

Fill up your car on autofill until pump shuts off. Records miles.

Refuel at same pump in the same way, let it shut off on its own. Your miles driven divided by the gallons put back in your tank to autoshut-off is going to be a very close approximation of your gas mileage.
 
You have a miss and wondering about crappy mileage?

Why would you ever need to rebuilt a Mopar 318 at 86k, it's barely even broke in.



If you want decent gas mileage, run a stock intake with 2bbl.

If you were leaking enough fuel into the crankcase to explain 5mpg, the engine would full up with gas within minutes and probably explode.
I understand that motor doesn't have many miles but it needed a refresh and lost oil pressure after getting off the highway one day so it needed it and I'm glad cause a cam bearing was about to blow.
 
My son's E body has the original 318 in it. We added a 340 intake manifold and an Edelbrock 1406 carb. We also put a 340 cam and lifters plus dual exhaust on it. It has the torqueflite tranny with 3:55 gears. It gets 15 miles per gallon on average. Like it was said above, I would check to make sure everything is working as it should and maybe give it a little more break in time.
 
Gas leaks stink and if severe leave gas on the ground, also quite noticeable and quite a fire hazard.

It doesn't leak, it's burning it, leadfoot or poor efficiency.

High stall torque converter?

Slipping tranny?

A lot of idling?

Float levels too high?

Piston rings not sealing well?

Timing retarded?

Do a compression test to rule out mechanical issues.

Install a fuel pressure regulator.

Make sure your gas cap breathes correctly.

Thermostat should be working correctly, these engines were made to run at 180º, not over 200º like some of today's engines.

Proper radiator cap.

Check carburator float levels, or better yet, put the Holley in a trash can where it belongs and install an Edelbrock 600CFM cab.

Dual plane intake only for street.

Optimize the timing (don't go by the book), check the distrubutor curve with a timing light. Get as much initial timing as you can, just back from fighting itself at startup, and limit the advance curve in the distributor so that there isn't excessive overall timing leading to ping.

Run non ethanol premium only. These engines were never made for Gasohol, and the NEP keeps in the tank way better.

Make sure your heat riser in the R side manifold isn't stuck.

Don't run excessively free flowing exhaust, "turbo" type mufflers are better than glass packs.

Run tailpipes all the way to the rear bumper.

An H pipe, crossover pipe can be beneficial.

Don't use too heavy oil. 40W has a lot more drag than 30W.

Use a windage tray.

Make sure the EGR system is up to snuff.

Use a tachometer, don't lug or overrev engine.

Keep your tires aired properly.

When you come to a light on a flat spot, get the car to stop for a second before the light, and release the brakes, the car should roll forward, or back when on a slant, in neutral.

Install a Transgo shift kit.

Use a fan clutch or switch to electric fans.

Make sure your battery/electrical is up to snuff so that power isn't wasted trying to charge the battery any more than needed.

Wax your car.
 
Are you sure you did not put 360 heads on I would check that and pollution years the heads were different compression ratio
 
Sounds like you need a locking gas cap! Back when I had my repair shop, I had a customer that was complaining to me that his mileage was terrible around town. On a trip, it was great, but, just daily commute mileage was real bad. I just couldn't find any reason for it. Turns out his neighbor's kid was siphoning out gas for his go-cart and minibike. We only found out when the kid got caught in the act and confessed that he'd been doing it for some time.
 
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