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Those switches can be finicky. You might need take it apart and clean the contacts. There is a procedure in the FSM on how to jump the switch pins to get power to the motor and check the action and test the switch. There is a member here that rebuilds the switches as well, @Devinism.

I always thought one of the 300 clubs kept a list of these, or is it just letter cars?

That looks great! How come we haven’t seen more pics of this one?

I don’t know much about the 413, but if you are talking about the red Newport in PA, that is a beautiful car.

There is nothing out there like AMD for C bodies. Pick up a cheap bead roller from Harbor Freight and and some flat sheet steel and do them yourself. I picked up a decent '73 parts car and cut to size there was little difference from the '69 - '73 C bodies, but I don't know about formals like...

I'm pretty sure '71 is the same as '70 which might provide more availability.

Cloudy was good, but now I’m blind, lol.

Is that a disembodied Hurst door in the snow??

I had a top done back in 2017 in Moorestown NJ, excellent job and fast service at a reasonable price. I will be having my vert project done by them as well. Leather Upholstery|Moorestown,NJ|Moorestown Auto & Boat Upholstery Inc

It does look good without the skirts! And now with the wheels, excellent! Hope you get the finish trim molding soon. They also had a plain rocker trim for Newport, not sure what year, but the clips are unobtainium.

I knew it was a joke since it's only worth the standard FCBO $2500..... :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :poke::poke::poke:

Try here: Detroit Muscle Technologies, LLC Mopar & AMC muscle car restoration gaskets

Good question. The frame that is in my car now is actually from a 1969 Dodge Polara. These are solid mount frames, no rubber isolators that are found on ‘70-‘73 hardtops. There is a great thread on here that dives into great detail about the differences between solid mount and torsion quiet...

Sure, it’s a work in progress. Here is the thread. I still have to update the rest of last year’s work. Resurrection of my 1970 Chrysler 300 Convertible

Here is how I did mine. First, strip down the nose, fenders hood, rad support, etc. Then build a rolling support that will span the pinchwelds of the car. Next support the front with Jack stands at the pinchwelds, and also by the stub frame. Then remove the bolts supporting the stub...

Removing this to be useful might prove tricky. It is all welded together at the pinch welds and on the ends. You can't just cut through (like the pictured example) that would render it useless (as well as ruining many saw blades). It would have to be removed from each end at the factory seems...

Wow, this is a great thread, thanks For the detailed posts. Beautiful car @ayilar!

Looks great Ben, keep up the good work!

Sorry for your loss, any pictures of when you owned it?

Do you have a picture of what the trim should look like?