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Brewers sells the Z-bar new these days: Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists The clutch pedal to z-bar rod is the same as an early B-body iirc along with the clutch fork. Really the only things that need reproducing is the floor hump and the frame...

Probably a Ford 8in or 9in if I had to guess. Lotta Fords used the 3.73 ratio.

Have an old (~1999) .484 purple shaft in the convertibles stock 2bbl 383 with a 4bbl swap & HP manifolds. Its not terrible as a cruiser but by no means a speed racer. Swapping from 2.76 to 3.23s made a world of difference with it though. Need to swap out the factory 11" converter to reallly wake...

Yes, thin lines. Doesnt take much.. Snug the pan down then torque to spec after a bit.

You only use 4 thin beads where the front timing cover & rear seal holder meets the block. Otherwise it goes on dry. The 3G hemi also uses this same style gasket factory.

Column shifted 3 speed was available on '71 Furys and possibly Polaras as the base transmission option still. Hamtramck Historical is a good source for this info and does show the Fury having it. That said anyone near north central Ohio want to pick them up and ship them my way? The seller is...

On it lol

It is the big block A-body repro pan.

E-body is close (was measuring one up for a buddies 300H before he sold the car since he had one on hand). Better alternative is just to spec an S-60 through Strange like @413 recommended. Really no reason to use one unless you're pushing like 600hp through a manual trans. The 8.75 will suffice.

Iirc doing donuts is what really eats up a cone style SG. Normal strait line burnouts shouldnt be too too bad. If you feel ambitious you can even add some extra springs inside the 4 main ones for a smidge extra pressure.

Since the cones haven't bottom out I'd put it back together and run it. Once the diff turns to a one wheel peel (cones have bottomed out) then rebuild it or find a better clutch SG to replace it.

With the y-pipe removed, drag link dropped down, & trans inspection cover removed, a big block oil pan will literally fall out of a C-body. The only reason to jack the motor up would be for making removal of the pan bolts easier. The Summit gasket made for an extremely easy reinstall since...

I went in order as the photos appeared.. Transmission #3 is clearly a 4 speed with the Inland shifter mechanism.

They appear to all be A/F body transmissions. 1. is early A 4 speed with the flange ('64-'65) 2. Is a A body 3 speed trans. Probably early-mid '70s 3. Is early slip yoke A body 4 speed trans ('66-'67) with the Inland shifter mechanism. These usually use the smaller 904 automatic size...

Its probably the wrong choice to make but doesnt hurt to fantasize

I mean, if you're interested in trading I have oem 489 2.76 or 3.23 (I'd have to check) gear sets. I'd only be interested if the 3.91 is also an oem gear set.

I wouldnt worry much about having the needle bearing pivots. There is a member over on the A-body site who machines replacement HD bronze bushings for mopar pedal assemblys. Imo that is more then overkill for any of us. [FOR SALE] - New bronze clutch and brake pedal bushings I will have to...

Yes, but I believe all fusie pedals take the plastic bushings. Only HP engine (so 318/360/383-2bbl excluded) cars got the needle bearing pivots. There was no manual trans HP '69-'71 C-body.

I'll be looking into hand fabbing a couple sets of pedals come spring/summer provided I can get a few of the key peices already machined. Few friends have been hounding me for some and I have no intentions on selling any of mine lol By far the easiest route is to purchase a complete factory...

Any chance its a '66 with a floor hump lol