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Everything you say.... ...... And changing the seal for the vacuum control valve and seal it all up carefully. Something else I noticed is that the diaphragm cover needs to be well seated prior to snugging it down... it wil bunch up if not done evenly; causing a leak.

I love puzzles.... I wake up and go through a few hands of solitaire with my coffee in the morning just to turn my brain on.

Bless their hearts.... about time! However, they just reduced the value of my stash.....

Yes I did......but only after they stopped working.... Mattel hotwheels Sizzlers were my favorite toy! I got a replacement set from my wife for Christmas about 10 years ago. When I die, she’s going to have a lot of my toys to get rid of if I don’t start getting rid of some soon. But not...

Delve... delve!!!! Please. Our old units are dying and replacements that actually still work are very hard to find.

Oops... my nubile young bride distracted me before I updated the initial post. Lost all the valuable commentary. Go back please.

The FSM tells us that, beyond some minor adjustment as to engagement and electrical connections from and to the switch, the unit should be changed as a non serviceable unit. Wonderful!.... 20 or 30 or 40 years ago but not now. Having a weak or inop unit on your car can be a pain. It was for me...

Good read... glad you got it fixed. Two of my previous 73 Town and Country Wagons had the same issue with that connector. They get loose and overheat cutting power off to the harness from the alternator. No bueno.

Lol!!!!

Update............… tried the third regulator..... same issue. Checked that the ground to alternator and regulator were good..... Check Checked the the wires from the alternator to the regulator..... All good, and no short Pulled the alternator and replaced it....... BINGO!!!!! 14.3 volts...

thanks Big John, but really....Two bad regulators in a row showing the same exact symptoms? I actually bought two of them when I got the replacement and can pull the one out of my roadrunner if that one is also "bad".... But that's it! Fours my limit. Wiring looks good but will check that...

Update. Voltage out of the alternator has actually increased. I put put the charger on the battery and it showed full charge in less than a minute of charging. Idle le voltage now 13.2 volts but rises to as much as 16 volts at 2500 rpm. Voltage at the field wire is 12.9 to 16 volts...

On a trip this weekend with the family, the alternator started dying as I arrived in Orlando. On the trip up from Miami, I was noticing that the a/c blower was not what it should be and the girls were complaining that the it was hot in the back.... As I arrived, the alternator would charge...

Just came back from that movie. Took a year of tuning, fixing and vacuum leak searching before I got serious and did a simple leak down test. Burnt exhaust valve was the culprit. And it was also the number 3 cylinder.

Ignition switch.... If broken it can make contact for some time ( time will vary) but as the connection in the switch is loose or the insulator back is broken, the resistance it has because of a bad contact heats the connection until it breaks contact.... When it cools, everything is fine...

Just a thought. You say you hear a click as the problem presents itself while turning the key? Your dash is similar to my 73t&c and should have an amp meter. If one of the legs is loose it will make a clicking noise as it arcs and the voltage in the entire system will go low or out...

Thanks... Believe it or not... That's a start. Though I wouldn't break a good one, I would like to cut one up that was already broken to see how they were made. was hoping someone had taken one apart for some info.

Ok guys, I need some expert advice. And no Viagra jokes please! The cruise control switch started coming loose on the wagon. FSM is silent on any repair so I figured someone out there may have solved this puzzle. It seems to have a c or e clip inside just inside the chrome thumb wheel. It...