70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Electronic ignition here. This will be one of my "to check" notes for tomorrow. Thanks.
2nd time in three years
- Thread starter 70NPORT
- Start date
Just a thought.
You say you hear a click as the problem presents itself while turning the key?
Your dash is similar to my 73t&c and should have an amp meter. If one of the legs is loose it will make a clicking noise as it arcs and the voltage in the entire system will go low or out. Likewise it will heat up as the current meets the loose connector until some demand load sets it off.
It happened to me on my 73 roadrunner and I thought I would go nuts trying to figure it out. Starting out cold..... No problem. If I drove it and stopped enough to heat soak, the demand on the solenoid would set it off and everything sort of went low voltage.
I also had an 87 vette that had the same problem which turned out to be a bad starter cable. I read back through the thread, and you may have changed them. If not, look there as well.
Just giving you something to wiggle/check while your down there.
Best of luck..... I'm suffering here just thinking about it so let us know how it works itself out.
You say you hear a click as the problem presents itself while turning the key?
Your dash is similar to my 73t&c and should have an amp meter. If one of the legs is loose it will make a clicking noise as it arcs and the voltage in the entire system will go low or out. Likewise it will heat up as the current meets the loose connector until some demand load sets it off.
It happened to me on my 73 roadrunner and I thought I would go nuts trying to figure it out. Starting out cold..... No problem. If I drove it and stopped enough to heat soak, the demand on the solenoid would set it off and everything sort of went low voltage.
I also had an 87 vette that had the same problem which turned out to be a bad starter cable. I read back through the thread, and you may have changed them. If not, look there as well.
Just giving you something to wiggle/check while your down there.
Best of luck..... I'm suffering here just thinking about it so let us know how it works itself out.
patrick66
Old Man with a Hat
Damn, I forgot about that with my '66 Coronet! Things were very weird with that car! I'd drive it for several miles without issue, and it, too, would quit like you turned off the ignition. With the Coronet, it turned out to be a broken ammeter post, causing a dead short after a hell of a draw on the battery. I've bypassed the ammeter altogether, since I have no spare. I plan on installing a Stewart-Warner voltmeter very soon.
The van problem was the reluctor gap. It would start and run, but after a few miles of steady driving, it would quit either after coming to idle off an exit ramp, for example; or slowing down to a light at idle. The gap measured .010", and that .002" off of .008' makes a big difference. Ensure you check that gap with a BRASS feeler gauge and NOT a regular feeler gauge, since you'd risk magnetizing the wheel and causing your ECU to die very quickly as a result.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Apologies guys....I forgot. We have "small town" memorial day ceremony at the only firehouse in town. Half the township goes and I gotta be there also. I've got friends & family members in the military. When I get back around noon I can/will get back into this and post something. I'm sure you will all understand. Happy Memorial Day.
Do they have a parade too Gary..... or just the service?
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Just got back. Services....and a parade, sorta. After the service everyone follows the local boy scout troop to the municipal building where the have a Vet memorial area. The walk itself doesn't even take 2 mins. When they get there they have flag ceremony and its over. The main service is comprised of VETs from different eras recounting experiences. This year they had WWII, Korea, Nam, Gulf War represented. Last year there was a guy from WWI but he died over the winter.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
So finally got time to come at this from square one.....the ignition cable. Down below its toast, just from handling it ...pieces of insulation and plastic started cracking off.....appears to have acid buildup and the conductors are starting to unravel.....not good. I bet this is the problem.
Anybody suggest a source for c body starter cables?
Anybody suggest a source for c body starter cables?
bulldogchesty
Senior Member
I would buy heavy gauge wire and make my own with soldered connections. I sure hope for your sake that this is the problem. Electrical gremlins suck.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Yeh I may do that instead, probably easier than trying to find a repro piece. Just eye balling it the cables look like might maybe #2 & #4AWG
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Go #2. #4 is not enough in my opinion.
BJS racing
Well-Known Member
I would suggest staying away from soldering. A good solid crimp connection will yield just as good or better results. When soldering you introduce heat to the wire and if you use more than required to make the joint you will actually start the process of ending up where you are now. I would hand make as suggested and use a good quality wire and cable. I would get the heavy gauge stuff from your local welding supply company. You should never have trouble with it again.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Yea, the main trunk is definitely #2, the solenoid conductor that's wrapped with it I'm thinking is #4.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
I'll be the first to admit I'm more comfortable with compression/crimping than soldering anything. I had to make a compression fitting for a new positive clamp so I'm prob sticking with that. How about this place for the cable (are they price gouging on the cable?)
BJS racing
Well-Known Member
The welding cable is going to be more expensive but it will also carry twice the amount of current/amps as a factory or off the shelf battery cable will and the insulation will stand the heat much better.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
BJS racing
Well-Known Member
That is the stuff. It us actually usually cheaper at a welding supply. One other thing about it is it is not as stiff as battery cable. It's much more flexable so you can tuck it into and run it around things much easier.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
I like the flexibility thing. However I presume the replacement cable length will need to match the stock cable length to avoid drop in voltage.
BJS racing
Well-Known Member
You could make the welding cable 3 times longer with no voltage drop. There are countless times the strands of wire in the cable compared to the 20 or so in battery cable. You will have much less voltage drop with the welding cable than with standard wire or battery cable. That is why our battery cable kits we sell are the same type of cable as welding cable. You can go much further distance with far less drop and less worry about heat and abrasion issues.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
What's the insulation on the welding cable? Different from the automotive cable?
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