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I also didn't have a passenger side mirror. I got one for about 60 bucks. Took the door all apart and got it in. I would suggest not doing it exactly even as the driver side. Move it about one inch closer to the back of the car. My pillar seems to be just ever so slightly in the way. Mistakes...

Firm feel doesn't have any new pumps available unless I buy the new bracket on my own. I've been in good contact with them. They can only rebuild mine if I want. They do however have the new gear box which I'll buy after I likely buy this pump from rainy day.

My current set up has a lot of play in the steering wheel. I plan to get a firm feel gear box to go with this. Hopefully tighten it up and not have so much slop, and no leaks. I did pm rainy day so hopefully that is a good option.

I just want it all new in there. Peace of mind

I've seen that video and for whatever reason I can't get it to stop squealing. I'll try again. Also, since I plan to replace both the pump and the gear box I've been using a mix of standard steering oil and half leak stop as I'm ruining my garage floor. Head of the local car club got a kick out...

Is there a specific model number of saginaw I need to get?

I lost the reservoir cap and needed a quick solution to drive the car. It's just sitting on the side while I was working on the car. So I plugged it up with that so I could drive it to go get the transmission rebuilt recently. I'm not opposed to switching the bracket if it's a direct fit but...

Btw here is what is in mine now

Have a 68 Newport 383 with a Thompson style power steering pump. I've already had it rebuilt and it's failing again. I just want a reman already done I can just quick swap. Was told is part number 20-6107. I have looked high and low, far and wide. Everybody sends me links that carry some other...

I have the 400hp fitech. It's been a pain in the *** for years but just recently dialed it in. Had an issue with the fuel pump no one could figure out. Going to buy a firm feel steering gear box next month and maybe winter project update those gears.

I do have a aluminum intake as of recently. Big weight difference for sure. Jack and spare removed but I have subs in the back. I could make air flow better to the cleaner.

I've already gone down the rabbit hole committing to this engine. I don't necessarily need a majority more power, just making the power it does have more usable.

I do have dual exhaust. I think gears are probably the best way. I do highway drive but not much.

Nitrous. Problem solved. Lol. It was a 4 barrel car, but fitech now. It's a fuel mixture only setup, doesn't adjust timing. I do have it the running a little sharp so think I have that covered as much as I can. I think the fitech is relatively responsive, maybe I just want a little more torque...

Have a rebuilt 383 68 newport with a fitech fuel injection. Had stock torque converter replaced a few years back, missed opportunity there. Stock rear end. The car is heavy. I just always call it a cruiser, not a race car. Which I don't want a race car necessarily but I would like to maybe make...

I posted a long while back for same thing with my 68. Cost prohibitive for now for me unfortunately. Maybe if it was Chevy easy but sadly it's not.

Perfect. I did order a cd drive just so I can read my fsm. This diagram should help. Thanks

I guess pics are always helpful. I borrowed this pic. Mine is still installed

Sounds like a big job

On my 68 Newport I want to change the rear diff gasket. I have a fsm on disk but had to order an external cd reader to view it. In the meantime is it just as simple as taking off the ten bolts or so and lowering the driveshaft and that whole front unit? I just want to swap the gasket and fluid only.