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On a non AC car I believe the temperature blend door is just moved by the cable from the temp lever, no vacuum involved.

Figured I would post an update. After a month and more than 1000 miles, the new radiator seems to be working fine. It ran a little hot at one point at the Woodward Cruise. 80 degree day, sitting in basically standstill traffic for half an hour and the hot light started flickering on and off...

I see how this works, but am not sure why the diode is needed?

Crisis is averted. :) Thanks to all for your suggestions. I suspect a recore of an original 22" or upgrade to a 26" would be best, and may happen in the future, but I got enough feedback here & elsewhere that my plan to go with a small block radiator & the hose reducer sounded feasable. So...

My '65 has the correct radiator (2524 983) that may well be original. I had tank seam leaks repaired a couple of times 10-15 years ago, and the 2nd time, he put a lower pressure cap on suggesting that it wasn't going to hold up otherwise. The core is so old that some of the fins have literally...

Even with just the gauge, you should be able to test the switch & the hoses going to the actuators. Could help narrow down some of the problems.

Do you have something like this? You can use the gauge to measure vacuum at different places, and use the hand pump to manually move the actuators to check them. Also handy for brake bleeding and engine tuneups

Check with Lansing radiator. They are on Larch just south of Saginaw St. I got mine repaired there years ago.

For what its worth, I have used the rubber expanding ones in two spots that were too difficult to drive a metal one in straight, and had good luck with them. I'm not sure if your leaking one is in the head or down in the block? At least one of the ones in the block will not accept the rubber...

Are they completely missing or just broken? I was able to repair some pretty bad cracks in mine with 2 part epoxy reinforced with wire.