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Just an update - As I stated before, I spent around $400, 3 failed....now 4th this GM one failed too. Well, it didn't really faill. Its not leaking and still works after 6 months, but now it needs more vacuum to open. Maybe my car's vacuum is low at the heater valve? Anyone know how much...

I tried NOS, then repro. I tried gluing it, then I tried one steel one that hangs, all failed within 3 yrs. One lasted 2 months. I was going to buy the one Trace has pictured, however at $140, I just don't want to keep throwing money at this problem. So over the last 6yrs , I've spent...

From my previous posts, you guys know I was having problems with the plastic Mopar heater valves starting to leak before 3yrs old on my 1970 300 Hurst. You guys also know I'm cheap, so I didn't want to buy a 3rd $120 valve. Maybe I have too much pressure in my cooling system which causes these...

What aftermarket non original metal heater valve are you using? I've searched everywhere and can't find one. Thanks

Just FYI for others with this problem - I installed the 1974 heater valve pictured above. Yep, it works backwards. Vacuum closes the 1974 valve to the heater core instead of opening it as on the 1970 heater valve. It seems most or all heater valves work this way. Big_John's idea is a good...

Yes, its me again but now the vacuum won't turn off, so I made another post in order not to confused anyone. Previous to this, I found the vacuum line disconnected at the vacuum reservoir. I guess I accidently dislodged it when I was installing new heater hoses. But when I attached vacuum...

Thanks guys, I'll try to check those things this week while its still warm. (45 is warm in Cleveland)

1970 300 Hurst with 440 auto. Saved from junkyard. Dash and firewall was rotted, but I got almost everything to work. When I bought it over a decade ago, heater/ac buttons were stuck, so I kept pushing/lubing them until they operated smoothly again. In the last few months, I haven't heard...

Cripes!!!, I never thought of that, so thank you, but now I'm really confused. All pre 1973 pictures of 440's I've seen have 4 port or no heater valve. After 1973, some 440's have 2 port, some have 4 port. All mopar engines pictures I've seen except 440 have 2 port. Why did engineers...

Thanks for the info Cbody! Remember when every new car had issues and broken stuff, even imports....and news wasn't owned by corporations so they could tell the truth? See vid - starts out good, but um....yeah.

I read that I need to use the 4 tube bypass version since the coolant needs to continue to flow back thru the top of the engine or heads or something vital like that. Anyhow, does anyone know why Mopar went to a 1/2" heater hose for 1 hose while still using 5/8" for the other? Before 1970...

I'm thinking of buying a new one like this. I guess it goes on the flow going to the heater core, correct? This is for a 1975 360 but Ebay says it will work on all 1974-1979 V8 mopar engines. It should work on a 1970 440 with A/C and ATC correct? Why did the 1970 models use both heater core...

I wouldn't tell anyone to put Imperial mufflers on. Yes they are very long and required modifying the pipes. About 10yrs ago, I had a massive backfire when I was playing with a new pertronix ignition and my OEM coil fried (fixed it). It crushed the mufflers like beer cans, but sounds kinda...

Buzzing might drive me nuts since I don't like noise. (I'm running Imperial mufflers), but I might give the metal one a shot. I just wonder if the metal one will last more than 5000 miles. Thanks for the post cbody.

About 5000 miles ago, I bought a new heater valve for my 1970 300 Hurst for $100. It started to leak. I noticed the newer valves after 1974 are almost 1/3 the price (about $40). These are all steel which makes me believe they will last much longer than the bakelite valve from 1970? I try to...

Thanks 73Coupe!

So I tested the OEM sender that was in there and its completed dead, which makes sense since its 52yrs old. Kind of odd that Chrysler would put the sender in without a gauge for it to be used. Anyone know what the connector in the pic is called? I guess it just snaps on. I think I need to...

Thanks everyone. Will do.

Wow. Well, Rock Auto didn't list the thread size and I'm using an aftermarket VDO gauge. Anyone know the thread size for the factory sending unit? VDO also has a 1/8" 27NPT too with same 250F 6-24V rating. Thanks

You guys are great. Live4 - Its a 1970 440 with AC. Do you mean the bolt I circled which is on pass side comes out and is a port? If so, I'm not sure I have the room unless the sending units screws right in there without adapters. I didn't see anything on drivers side but there's no room on...