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New plugs and wires.... How about putting it on #1 cyl on compression, 15 deg BFTC, and then checking your cap order in relation to the rotor, and then double check the firing order of the wires going to the plugs?

First off, if the carb is mech secondary (I didn't look yours's up), switch to vac secondary carb. Unlike many on this site, I like Holley's, but on the street for a performance 318 I would be running a traditional 1850 vac secondary 600 cfm. The carb size would be fine with the vac controlled...

Hi John, if you could, after you press on the bearings, let us know what is the ring gear surface run-out. thanks, another John

Worth a try for the new unit. The couple of 50 year old limited slip units I redid recently needed parts and one needed machine work to run true. I like running less back lash than I see many on these Mopar sites run, but in order to do so, the runout must be minimal. I did a couple others...

How about the Milodon 30930. Never tried one on a C body, but the angled sump gives the clearance on A bodies.

Doesn't appear to be a nylon one from the pics. All the ones I've seen have either off-white or tan colored gear teeth. Looks like a typical steel low performance stock-like original or replacement.

I don't know for sure, but who does. In any case I hate down time on a running car, and for me I don't have that much time left, all things considered. If your valves are indeed burned, i.e. pie serving-like sections missing of the valve head, then just as likely the heads are in rough shape...

I would advise pulling at least one valve cover and see what it looks like. If it's just has a coffee colored film over everything, that is better than if it has a heavy caked deposits filling most of the valve cover, (usually from only adding oil and never changing it). If really heavily...

Can of spray carb cleaner will also raise the rpms and it's pretty easy to do.

Ya, the 383 is sort of like a 340, stroke wise, if you don't have to drive every day on the freeway and don't care about gas mileage, go for the gears. I ran my 400 with 3.9s last year driving 25 miles each way on the freeway to the track and other places and just fine.

Probably, I've had more trouble with high floats than most any other carb problem.

Try setting timing with vac adv plugged to 15 or more deg at idle. When I start a new motor, first thing I do is set curb idle to 2,000 rpm and then adjust timing. As long as there is not so much timing that there is cranking resistance at start, more timing is better for the motor while it is...

I always block for racing and use race carbs with no choke, but that means need to be on the throttle at start until it's warm. No need to use the paper gaskets that come with the blocked port race pan. I make sure the intakes fit with no gaskets before use, or mill surfaces to make them fit...

Hopefully you have the lip on the main seal facing the right way. And as 413 said, check the two top rear located oil sender ports for leaks. Yes, get the choke open as soon as it will stay running, you don't want to gas wash the ring seal. For timing, I block the vac adv, just to keep...

Celtic, sounds like a job well done, I'm glad its running well. As for the shroud, most of the applications that I have had, have some text, part # & Chrys logo, and I have found that the words on the shroud should be right-side up.

No one has responded, so I'll take a shot and assume you don't don't have the luxury of parts availability and local Mopar expert advice. So aftermarket rings can have a variety of differences than stock such as material and ring tension. Most important to know if the rings will work at, is...

413 sounds like he is on track for the first one, a '64 or '65 A body, the aluminum tail housing would likely be an F body OD trans and the other one, not enough info

If you verify good spark to the cyl, then look for a vacuum leak at that intake port, irregularity in the int manifold port runner, or carb issue. Perhaps try a different manifold and/or carb.

Perhaps a cable push manual choke set up would be useful, particularly if you are also going with a new aftermarket carb.

By the way, I see the valley pan kit you bought is the high performance version with the blocked heat riser holes in the middle. Because it's the HP pan, it came with those extra gaskets, where the standard street version pan with the center holes open comes without the extra gaskets and is...