65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
I will be watching how this turns out, pic's when it arrives please
Has anyone used an aftermarket sure-grip?
- Thread starter Big_John
- Start date
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Worth a try for the new unit. The couple of 50 year old limited slip units I redid recently needed parts and one needed machine work to run true. I like running less back lash than I see many on these Mopar sites run, but in order to do so, the runout must be minimal. I did a couple others with the Dr Dif spools recently also, and they were easier, as they only had 0.0002"run out.
Delivered via UPS this afternoon, so pretty quick shipping.
First impressions are good. The machine work looks good to me and I have a critical eye for that. Very slight burr, probably only .002" or so on the chamfer on the mounting face for the ring gear. I'm probably one of a few folks that would notice that... and it will take less than a minute to take care of...
The dog likes to photobomb my pics.
The rest of the rear axle bearing job has snowballed... I decided I didn't like the brake hardware and one shoe was cracked, so I've been pulling everything apart, sandblasting the backing plates etc.. I think the easiest way for me to do this is pull the whole rear end rather than trying to muscle the center section in and out on the lift. I can just drop it and pull it out from the rear... Of course, that means cleaning the housing up and doing some paintwork...
First impressions are good. The machine work looks good to me and I have a critical eye for that. Very slight burr, probably only .002" or so on the chamfer on the mounting face for the ring gear. I'm probably one of a few folks that would notice that... and it will take less than a minute to take care of...
The dog likes to photobomb my pics.
The rest of the rear axle bearing job has snowballed... I decided I didn't like the brake hardware and one shoe was cracked, so I've been pulling everything apart, sandblasting the backing plates etc.. I think the easiest way for me to do this is pull the whole rear end rather than trying to muscle the center section in and out on the lift. I can just drop it and pull it out from the rear... Of course, that means cleaning the housing up and doing some paintwork...
57fury440
Well-Known Member
It looks good to me.
Will do!
Oz Sport Fury
Member
Many years ago I had Dr Diff build a complete unit for me, 3:55 gears, Eaton Trutrac crushless preload shims, Greens bearings for the axels, the Torsen designed clutchless diff is bloody awesome, I've had it since 2012 and it's seen a 383 then a 440, then a new 440 with a super charger and it's been absolutely faultless, when drag racing the car, the black 69 Fury (Dodge Phoenix) in my avatar, the car always leaves the line straight and it's consistent too...if anyone is looking for an upgrade then can't speak highly enough of the work Dr Diff does.
NitrousTuner1
Member
Been using these for 27 Year's now!
Have 1 in my Sport Fury that blows off deep in the 10's on a Big 29×11.5 M & H cheater slick. Also have many in 4x4 off road stuff. Only had 1 customer complain about the clicking. BUT his car had $600 of sound dampening as well...
Unless your running stock exhaust you wont hear it. Myself I Love hearing a Detroit Locker click in a bad *** muscle car when getting a ride.
They have a Huge benefit of the user can instsll NO need to reshim your pinion gear.
Powertrax 1240-LR Powertrax Lock-Right Lockers | Summit Racing
They've went WAY Up in price!
I paid $197 for my first one in the 90's
Have 1 in my Sport Fury that blows off deep in the 10's on a Big 29×11.5 M & H cheater slick. Also have many in 4x4 off road stuff. Only had 1 customer complain about the clicking. BUT his car had $600 of sound dampening as well...
Unless your running stock exhaust you wont hear it. Myself I Love hearing a Detroit Locker click in a bad *** muscle car when getting a ride.
They have a Huge benefit of the user can instsll NO need to reshim your pinion gear.
Powertrax 1240-LR Powertrax Lock-Right Lockers | Summit Racing
They've went WAY Up in price!
I paid $197 for my first one in the 90's
i bought one of these units it checked out fine ,, no burrs to speak of ,, gears all looked good ,,, only issue was the preload on the clutch plates which was 90-100 lbs/ft rotating i upped that to 160 lbs/ft which is in the range i like ,, usually try to get them at 150-200 lbs/ft rotating ,, last thing i checked was the runout on the mounting face which was 0.0015 ,, new 3.91 gear was installed and assembly was finished.
This project has taken longer than it should have...
With the ring gear bolted on, run-out TIR was under .002" .
Finally managed to get this project done. This should have been a couple days, but between life getting in the way and aggravating an old injury, it took me a lot longer.
This started as an axle bearing replacement and then got complicated when I decided to install the sure grip. I decided to pull the entire rear and clean it up and add some paint. The rear had been swapped some year ago for one sourced from a rusty car. On the underside of my rust free 300L, this stuck out like a sore thumb, so I went to work.
Started by hitting it with a needle scaler to get the big chunks off, followed it up with a coating of Ospho to treat the rust, then went over it with a flap sander in my angle grinder.
The center section needed some love too... The pinion seal was leaking (for obvious reasons) and I thought the bearing preload was on the loose side. A tip from a mechanic buddy suggested that my bearing noise could be pinion bearings and that lead me to change them too while it was apart.
New tabs from Dynamic Renovation - Home were welded on along with a new brake line set from Inline Tube. Backing plates were sand blasted and painted.
This started as an axle bearing replacement and then got complicated when I decided to install the sure grip. I decided to pull the entire rear and clean it up and add some paint. The rear had been swapped some year ago for one sourced from a rusty car. On the underside of my rust free 300L, this stuck out like a sore thumb, so I went to work.
Started by hitting it with a needle scaler to get the big chunks off, followed it up with a coating of Ospho to treat the rust, then went over it with a flap sander in my angle grinder.
The center section needed some love too... The pinion seal was leaking (for obvious reasons) and I thought the bearing preload was on the loose side. A tip from a mechanic buddy suggested that my bearing noise could be pinion bearings and that lead me to change them too while it was apart.
New tabs from Dynamic Renovation - Home were welded on along with a new brake line set from Inline Tube. Backing plates were sand blasted and painted.
I've only driven it a little. Basically round the block to check everything.
It all sounds and feels good. The sure-grip seems to be working fine with no clunks or noise.
Time will tell, but so far, all is good.
It all sounds and feels good. The sure-grip seems to be working fine with no clunks or noise.
Time will tell, but so far, all is good.
71Polara383
Kid with ballcap
Overall thoughts on these suregrips? I've got a 3.55 I want to set up, and the price is certainly intriguing.
The driving season ended a little too early for me to give a complete review, but what I did drive seemed good. The machining looked clean and almost zero run-out on the gear face.
Everything seems to add up for a good replacement for a street car.
1971 300 Alvah
Member
I had one of those on my Jeep back in '98/early 2000s. I didn't like how it would cause the Jeep to pitch differently in corners going on or off the throttle. Could have been the short wheelbase. I don't know that I would use one again. Really good traction, though!
Franklin Thomas
New Member
Thanks Big John
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