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You could always go the Chameleon XLE route :rofl:

How about Simplisafe? It's meant for home, but I don't see why you couldn't install it in something that moves. They have entry sensors, motion sensors, even a sensor that is triggered by the sound of breaking glass. It has a nifty phone app to receive alerts, turn it off/on, etc. And you...

Deoxit is pretty good stuff. I've used it for years and it does work.

I used to use this stuff in my modified turbo MR2 and it allowed me to run higher boost and slightly more advanced timing before onset of knock. But I just found a site that did testing on a bunch of boosters and this only came in 5th. https://nitrous.com.au/octane-booster-shootout/ Also...

All good info... thanks!!!

Oh I forgot to mention, the little tab on the slider thing that slides the rubber block back and forth broke of as well. You can see there's still the tab that slides the electrical switch side to side. When I took it apart, that little tab was still there but it broke off super easy, in fact...

The unit in our car was bad so we replaced it w/ a NOS unit. However, I was curious what was it was like inside to see if they could potentially be repaired. Here's a picture for anyone else that's interested in seeing what's inside. In the case of ours, all the little nibs for the vacuum...

Oh, and I'll mention that the Chrysler master tech videos on Youtube are very helpful while at the same time entertaining. Most folks here probably already know about them but for those that don't, check them out

We checked the gap between the reluctor and pickup and it was much wider than the recommended .008" so we adjusted that and set base timing to 12.5º. Car started good, but it was in the 40's when we did this so we let the car sit for a week and tried it yesterday when the temperature was in the...

We're going to try and get some time on it this weekend so I'll let everyone know how we make out

My brother pointed out to me that one thing we didn't do was check the pickup/reluctor gap on the distributor before installing it, so that is something we are going to check next time we get to work on the car. But could that possibly be causing this issue? Would low power to the ECU cause it...

I have to wonder, why wouldn't the ECU get connected to the START side of the BR? That way it would get direct power when cranking, then get power through the BR once the engine is running and the alternator is providing charge to the system.

Mike is correct. And my reason for asking is similar to his, except in our case it's because we installed the Mancini HiPo electronic ignition kit a few weeks ago and everything seem to go flawlessly. Engine started and ran on the first try, set the base timing, road tested, etc. Then when we...

Okay, so if we don't get 12v on the "run" lead when the key is in the start position, but do get it when the key is in the run position, am I correct that would indicate a faulty ignition switch?

Is the ignition switch supposed to put out 12v at both the "start" and "run" side of the ballast resistor when the key is in the "start" position? This is a 68 300. I tried to find this info in the FSM but could not.

I ordered the Mancini HiPo distributor kit and we installed it today. Only issue with the install was the harness plug did not want to fit onto the ECU. I had to trim a little bit of the plastic away from the inside and even then it needed some gentle coaxing with a piece of wood and mallet to...

The Mancini Hi-Po kit has a the spec and install document posted online which I read through. It does not mention the need for any specific kind of alternator but does recommend a solid state regulator (which I already have from FuryGT). It does state that full mechanical advance is at 2000...

I want to get rid of the points so we don't have to worry about replacing, adjusting, etc. I'm sure we're going to have plenty to upkeep on this oldie so any spots we can make more reliable I want to do so. I'm not worried about keeping a stock look. I actually put a MP electronic ignition...

I want to convert my 440 over to electronic ignition and am trying to decide on which Mopar Performance kit to order from Mancini Racing. They have one that's described as "Hi-Po" and one that's not. The Hi-Po claims "performance advance curve". Also, should I be replacing the coil at the...

Just ordered up one of these regulators. So glad for all the dedicated Mopar folks around here!