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and don't forget there is an adapter for the shifter mount . and 66 up trans will work , but in 70 there is two mounts on the tail stock for shifters and the mount for the trans has changed it position on the tail stock . note the top trans is a od but has the 70 up mounts , and the third one...

i did not need a trans i've got plenty of them .

i'm doing a auto to a833 swap in my 65 dodge 880 , grabbed the parts required from another c body , the floor hump and bell with clutch linkage was a must for me . here is a pic of the stuff needed .

yes that's a tight fit , did the same rim bands on my 69 dart gt very tight on the springs , but never an issues even on a twisty road through the mountains .

okay , the 75 imps are 11,75 , i like your idea of 72 chrysler rear drums , used them on a modified dana 60 in a 70 dart more door , customer wants to run his stock wheel covers , that's a 14''cover and we made some 15x8's for the rear of the car since there is a hp440 under the hood we needed...

what dia are those 87 fifth ave's rotors

never spread the spring apart or pull them together either , they will bind up in the travel . that 72 rear drums is a great solution , i'm going with 75 imp disc rears on my 64 300k and well on the front i plan on using the spindles and disc package from the 75 as well .

marvel mystery oil works

merry christmas to all , no word on my humps , my humps are getting no action do to larger jobs / if i was to make several hundred to a thousand at a time the humps would get more priority . nut my still trying to get them done , along with bell cranks or z bars as well as frame mounts .

nice work space

this is a complete package to put a 4 speed in a 65 66 , 65 should have a round shifter hole , 66 starts the oval type . less the trans . this is a 130 t flywheel 10.5 dia clutch , the 11 dia is a 143 t flywheel and its a different bellhousing , both are 6 bolt cranks .

great tool my friend , its going to be the handiest tool in the shop . hope your head room is good enough . a friend has a 11k high lift , and raised his 37 chevy hotrod just to high once . it was about a three foot dent across the roof by the rear window . two full days to fix and repaint .

yes replace them before they shift and close the oiling windows .

bob , replace them with new ones . tell you a story about my buds 383 . he heard a rattle it was in the front under the timing cover . so he pulled it down and found the first cam bearing was lose and out of the hole . it was a newly build motor . so we replaced it , just to hear that same nose...

pull the plus drop the header remove the head . there is more damage . i would say something held the valve from closing on the intake side of that cylinder and id still there . and the piston hit the open valve and bent it , i sure the piston was hurt by the impact . how much is yet tobe seen .

well bent pushrod , bent rocker , bar broken hold down , now pull the head and see what damage is hidden . valves and piston ? hope it didn't screw up the cylinder . my 65 880 rag is awaiting a power train build . is it still a 383 or ?

yes , one of the tricks was to mill out the passage wall from the under side and than weld up the gap in the outside tube . from the top view you look stock . bit the motor would rev high on the torque curve .

here's a pic of the long n short of them

i like this setup best for short runner length , this is a stage II intake . the stage III intake is better . but i did pickup the mopar performance one for my stage VI alum mw heads and that them ported for the best flow .

these are 2800rpm top torque type , plan is to mount them on a 60 rb 383 golden loin engine , bought these long rams years ago at a swapmeet , i ask the guy were the rest was , he replied the rest of what . it was a good deal . and a great deal at todays retail prices i've seen .