1960 Belvadere - Neutral Safety Switch wiring question

blindranger

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I thought I had a faulty neutral safety switch, but upon checking under the car, I found the wire was gone entirely. See picture:

IMG_7889.jpeg


I've checked for disconnected wires but couldn't find any. My question is, where should this wire be connected to? Does this NSS connect to the ignition? Starter silenoid?
 
This is awesome, thanks for the link!

The starter solenoid has two small posts, one marked "I" and one marked "S"; should the NSS be connected to the "I" terminal, and the yellow wire from the ignition goes to the "S", correct?

Screenshot 2025-09-07 at 3.50.24 PM.png
 
I think there should be another terminal. I found a '60 Chrysler electrical diagram at MyMopar.

1757282833661.png
 
This is awesome, thanks for the link!

The starter solenoid has two small posts, one marked "I" and one marked "S"; should the NSS be connected to the "I" terminal, and the yellow wire from the ignition goes to the "S", correct?

View attachment 734052

The 1960 Belvedere with automatic transmission used the solenoid switch system with the four terminal solenoid switch, Chrysler part number 1692659. Manual transmission cars used a three terminal solenoid switch with a grounded base. 1692659 was used on 1956-1960 Plymouths and Dodges and some Desotos. In 1960, Valiant and Lancer used a similar solenoid switch with different terminals. In 1960, Chryslers and Desotos used the different starter relay.

The ignition switch wire, circuit S2, connects to the "S" terminal on the 1692659 solenoid switch. The neutral safety switch wire, circuit S4, connects to the other terminal. The other terminal is labeled "T" on an original solenoid switch. Other switches may be marked with "I" on that terminal.

The following image shows an original 1692659 solenoid switch:
Screenshot 2025-09-07 7.09.56 PM.png


For the aftermarket switch in your image, connections should be the same.
 
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Thank you!

I just ran a new wire from the NSS to the correct terminal on the starter solenoid, but the starter would not activate. However, when I run a jumper cable to force a ground on the T or I terminal, the engine cranks. So Im guessing my NSS must be bad.
 
Thank you!

I just ran a new wire from the NSS to the correct terminal on the starter solenoid, but the starter would not activate. However, when I run a jumper cable to force a ground on the T or I terminal, the engine cranks. So Im guessing my NSS must be bad.
You can verify the nss operation…
 
FYI you don't have a 727, you have a cast iron trans. Is it a 3 speed or a 2 speed by the buttons?

Have you driven this car, is the shift cable adjusted correctly? The switch may be just fine. It should ground the terminal in Neutral.
 
Oh interesting
FYI you don't have a 727, you have a cast iron trans. Is it a 3 speed or a 2 speed by the buttons?

Have you driven this car, is the shift cable adjusted correctly? The switch may be just fine. It should ground the terminal in Neutral.
Oh interesting. The car has not been on the road in decades. My folks bought it around 2000, and after it developed some "issue" with the transmission, they parked it in a barn. I wasn't able to get a clear picture of what was going on with the car, but my stepdad shared that it was trying to start in gear and that the starter wasn't working correctly. When I pulled it out of the garage (thread here), the starter was removed from the car, and I couldn't get it into neutral.

I thought it was a 727 based on some internet searches, but Im a total newbie to anything Mopar. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
IMG_8056.jpeg
 
Oh interesting

Oh interesting. The car has not been on the road in decades. My folks bought it around 2000, and after it developed some "issue" with the transmission, they parked it in a barn. I wasn't able to get a clear picture of what was going on with the car, but my stepdad shared that it was trying to start in gear and that the starter wasn't working correctly. When I pulled it out of the garage (thread here), the starter was removed from the car, and I couldn't get it into neutral.

I thought it was a 727 based on some internet searches, but Im a total newbie to anything Mopar. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
View attachment 734129

The original three speed automatic transmission in a 1960 Belvedere is the A466 Torqueflite. This is a cast iron case transmission introduced in 1956 and used through 1961. It was revised in 1959. The two speed transmission was the Powerflite used from 1954 through 1961.

The A904 aluminum three speed Torqueflite was introduced in the 1960 in the Valiant and Dart models with the Slant Six engine. Also known as the Torqueflite-6. The A727 aluminum three speed Torqueflite was introduced in 1962 to replace the A466. Also known as the Torqueflite-8.
 
I remember you the thread now. An automatic trans doesn't need to be in neutral for the car to roll with the engine off.

That is an expensive NSS so you don't want to buy one if you don't need one.

So how do you know what gear it is in if it doesn't run and it has no park?

Do you have a service manual? It tells how to adjust the shift cable. You can remove the cable from the trans and watch it as someone goes through the buttons to see if the cable is working right.
 
I remember you the thread now. An automatic trans doesn't need to be in neutral for the car to roll with the engine off.

That is an expensive NSS so you don't want to buy one if you don't need one.

So how do you know what gear it is in if it doesn't run and it has no park?

Do you have a service manual? It tells how to adjust the shift cable. You can remove the cable from the trans and watch it as someone goes through the buttons to see if the cable is working right.
Yes, I have the service manual.

IMG_8057.jpeg


My strategy (likely flawed) is to get the engine running, then move on from there. I know the fuel tank is a rusty mess, so it will likely need to be replaced, but I have bypassed it while I work on getting the engine running.
 
Yes the gas jug is a good idea. Clean out gas Tank later.

If trans is in any gear and you don't know that then the car wil try to drive away. So jack up rear axle when getting it running so it doesn't get away from you.

Fill the trans fluid when you get it running so it doesn't run wil low fluid and damage it.
 
I use a outboard engine gas tank, maybe 10 gallon, with the primer bulb.
I had it mounted in the trunk of one of my cars with a length of fuel line going to the existing fuel line.
This was to move the car around until it was ready for the road not for driving on the street.
 
The neutral safety switch provides a ground for the starter relay when the transmission is in neutral or park but opens the ground circuit in reverse, drive, 2nd gear and low gear so that the starter motor can't be engaged.
In your particular case, there is no park function so the engine will only be able to be started in neutral and a good parking brake system (or a set of chock blocks) is a must for this vehicle.

....and you should be able to tow the car to get it started. You just have to be going fast enough. The old cast iron transmissions had rear pumps and could be used to spin the engine over if you towed the vehicle fast enough.
I seem to remember going about 25 mph behind my dad's '60 Windsor and dumping the trans in my '55 DeSoto into drive and the engine finally sputtered to life once the fuel got up to the carb from the tank. Remembering the actual speed is a bit tough because we did that in 1963 after buying the car from my dad's friend's used car lot so that I could pull the engine and dump it in my '39 Dodge pickup. The 6 volt battery was on it's last legs and we couldn't get the engine to fire so my dad just pulled out the tow rope and off we went.

There is a quadrant inside the transmission with detents on it that operates the neutral safety switch.
If someone has been fiddling with the valve body and installed it back in the transmission without, first, removing the neutral safety switch one of two things can happen. The quadrant will get bent, or in worst case, break off and either scenario will render the neutral safety switch inoperative.

The early sixties were transition years for ChRyCo starter motor circuitry. Chryslers, Imperials and DeSotos used a separate relay along with a starter-mounted solenoid.

Dodges and Plymouths used a solenoid similar to the units commonly found of FoMoCo products with one important difference and that is in the functionality of the two smaller pins on the solenoid.
If it's got an "I" and an"S" cast into the housing, it's a Ford starter solenoid, not a Chrysler solenoid. and will, most likely, not work because the I and S terminals aren't on each end of the "pick" coil.

1757876657523.png

This solenoid coil is NOT internally grounded and needs both a power and a ground connection in order to operate. One terminal gets connected to the ignition switch "start" wire and the other terminal is connected to the neutral safety switch which will provide a ground in, either, the neutral or park positions.

This solenoid is NOT the same as identically-shaped similar FoMoCo solenoids that DO have the "pick" coil internally grounded and are energized by simply applying power to the S terminal.
The I terminal is used as a ballast resistor bypass terminal (to provide a full 12 volts to the coil when starting the engine) that is only live when the solenoid was activated.
GM utilizes the same technology in their starter circuitry wherein the R terminal on the starter solenoid is connected to the distributor coil side of the ballast resistor to boost the voltage to the ignition coil during the engine starting process.

Make sure you have the correct type of solenoid. A FoMoCo style solenoid won't provide any neutral safety function. It WILL engage the starter regardless of the state of the transmission as it is an internally-grounded solenoid and as soon as you apply power to the "S" terminal, the solenoid will engage the starter.

If you can make the solenoid operate by applying 12 volts to one small terminal and ground to the other terminal WITH THE SOLENOID ON A BENCH AND NOT, OTHERWISE, GROUNDED, the solenoid WILL function as a neutral safety device.

If the only way you can get the solenoid to operate is to apply 12 volts to the S terminal and GROUND THE MOUNTING BRACKET, then you will NOT have neutral safety protection with that solenoid.

On the late fifties and early sixties (and beyond) Chryslers, Imperials and DeSotos, the neutral safety switch is connected to a starter RELAY which, in turn, is connected to the starter solenoid (which is mounted on the starter itself). Later on, this relay was incorporated in all ChRyCo cars.
1757874603566.png

The "SOL" terminal connects to the starter solenoid
The "I" terminal is connected to the start post on the ignition switch
The bullet terminal is connected to the neutral safety switch on the transmission.
"BAT" is connected to the battery and also to the starter solenoid.

When power from the ignition switch is applied to the "I" terminal AND the neutral safety switch is also providing a ground to the bullet terminal, the relay will engage and provide 12 volts on the "SOL" wire to activate the starter-mounted solenoid.
 
I thought I had a faulty neutral safety switch, but upon checking under the car, I found the wire was gone entirely. See picture:

View attachment 734044

I've checked for disconnected wires but couldn't find any. My question is, where should this wire be connected to? Does this NSS connect to the ignition? Starter silenoid?
Starter relay. The relay must be jumpered out as the function of the safety switch is to provide a ground when the vehicle is in Neutral. Without a good ground, the relay would not be able to activate the solenoid.
 
If you can make the solenoid operate by applying 12 volts to one small terminal and ground to the other terminal WITH THE SOLENOID ON A BENCH AND NOT, OTHERWISE, GROUNDED, the solenoid WILL function as a neutral safety device.
This is how the solenoid I bought from Napa is functioning.

I need to sit down with the wiring diagram and better understand how everything is supposed to be wired, because whoever did the 318 conversion (I think it was a 6-cylinder originally) got creative and left a rat's nest of wires.
 
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