1966, 383

Redhead

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The story is, I bought this 1966 Chrysler 300 on the cheap. I got it started and the engine required throttle to idle and had a god aweful scretch that tempod with the motor turning. Checked pulleys, belts, and fan to eliminate those. Decided to pull the motor, noticed when I took the intake off that the lifters were not centered on the cam journals. There is a 1/4" of play back and fourth on the cam. This is the first point of concern. Second is that the piston in the four hole has some slack in it, when turning the crank. Anyone had similar problems how extensive did your machine work get? Hoping for just .030 over and calling it a day. Is there any preventative work i need done?
 
Chrysler engines have always had stronger blocks. The one in my 300 cleaned up at .020. Have your bores measured first before you have them cut. Most machine shops like to keep a standard size in stock. Remember once it's gone you can't go back.
 
The cam normally wants to walk rearward the thrust is held in check by upper timing gear against the front of the block. The lobes are ground on a taper, causing a rotation of the lifter and pulling the cam rearward.
 
The cam normally wants to walk rearward the thrust is held in check by upper timing gear against the front of the block. The lobes are ground on a taper, causing a rotation of the lifter and pulling the cam rearward.

And the lifters won't be centered over the cam lobes.
 
Second is that the piston in the four hole has some slack in it, when turning the crank.

Sounds like a bad rod bearing and/or piston pin and/or piston. You won't know until the engine is apart.
 
Its in the middle of the bore half way between tdc and bdc id say everything else moves a good 1/8" when you reverse the crank. The pistons are real sloppy in the bore too. Engine had serious blow by when it ran.
 
Two rod bearings were completely missing and heres the pistons on the other end of those rods.

20161230_131553.jpg


20161230_131549.jpg
 
Two rod bearings were completely missing and heres the pistons on the other end of those rods.

Looks like someone ran the car with little or no oil in it. Also looks like yer gonna need a set of rods too. . . Aaaarrrgghh!
 
Might be looking at a crate engine and just holding on to the original block. Found a $1400 383 crate engine $200 core return $175 shipping. 1750 plus tax could be worth it.
 
Might be looking at a crate engine and just holding on to the original block. Found a $1400 383 crate engine $200 core return $175 shipping. 1750 plus tax could be worth it.

I don't think you could build one for that amount of money - especially if its competently done.
 
It certainly reads pretty. I don't trust it, but it's a good read.
Always have to call and feel it out first dont pull the trigger on a pretty article. Then do a google maps street view of the buisness adress.
 
It certainly reads pretty. I don't trust it, but it's a good read.
Agreed and I am always weary of places on the internet that make no mention of where they are located on the planet. I think that you will spend no more rebuilding yours locally and end up with a better unit. You can buy a kit for the bottom end for around $600 plus 4-500 for machine work and fitting cam bearings that leaves you with 5-600 for the heads, assemble it yourself and you will have a known pieces that you rebuilt on.
 
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