1966 Fury 4 speed/clutch linkage questions

fury fan

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2013
Messages
3,025
Reaction score
2,086
Location
Indianapolis
Well guys I finally had a chance to get in and take a look now that I knew what to look for....and I was TOTALLY wrong. The over-center spring IS installed, but the Z bar is not installed properly. It looks like it is clocked forward of where is should be so the over-center spring only has about 1/2 the amount of travel it should. It's like they installed the Z bar with it turned forward about 45 degrees of where it should be, if that makes sense...

Does this pic help? For disclosure - I've had this engine and trans out, almost 20 years ago (for a foolhardy turbo fantasy) so cannot guarantee that all is correct. My clutch pedal needs lifted with the foot to return the last 2 inches, to get it to pop back. So I dunno that everything is correct, and cannot remember if I ever drove the car with it like that. Perhaps @commando1 can answer how close these pics were to help him?

@commando1
Check out the camera date. We worked on that 15 years ago???
1655928467029.png


1655928652097.png
 

12BNH

New Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2022
Messages
10
Reaction score
3
Location
NH
Do you need some pics of z-bar assembly...I can take some of my Fury setup.
Yeah if you have any that would be great.
Does this pic help? For disclosure - I've had this engine and trans out, almost 20 years ago (for a foolhardy turbo fantasy) so cannot guarantee that all is correct. My clutch pedal needs lifted with the foot to return the last 2 inches, to get it to pop back. So I dunno that everything is correct, and cannot remember if I ever drove the car with it like that. Perhaps @commando1 can answer how close these pics were to help him?

@commando1
Check out the camera date. We worked on that 15 years ago???
View attachment 539442

View attachment 539443
That first pic does help some, thanks.
 

Luke Pokrajac

Active Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2019
Messages
209
Reaction score
203
Location
Rock Hill, SC (Charlotte Metro)
Here you go...also included firewall bracing (added by factory as firewall on c-bodies isnt reinforced like a and b bodies). Tranny mount on cross member included. Special C-body only mount...different than b-bodies. I had to find an NOS one.

IMG-0624.jpg


IMG-0625.jpg


IMG-0626.jpg


IMG-0627.jpg


IMG-0631.jpg


IMG-0632.jpg


IMG-0633.jpg
 

12BNH

New Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2022
Messages
10
Reaction score
3
Location
NH
Here you go...also included firewall bracing (added by factory as firewall on c-bodies isnt reinforced like a and b bodies). Tranny mount on cross member included. Special C-body only mount...different than b-bodies. I had to find an NOS one.

View attachment 539792

View attachment 539793

View attachment 539794

View attachment 539795

View attachment 539796

View attachment 539797

View attachment 539798
Thank you! These give me something clear to compare with what I have.
 

PH27L7

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2020
Messages
641
Reaction score
940
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
A few trivial comments from a guy who's messed with a lot of 4-speeds...
-- the clutch fork attaches to a slot in the bellhousing & nowhere else, see service manual illustration
-- if the clutch pedal does not return to the end of its travel (have to pull it up with foot) then your freeplay is set incorrectly
-- the rubber grommet on the fork rod has a tendency to fall apart over time, especially with heavier clutches, which messes with freeplay. Easy, cheap, & permanent solution is to replace it with a Chevy small block rocker arm ball (I know, sacrilege)
 

12BNH

New Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2022
Messages
10
Reaction score
3
Location
NH
A few trivial comments from a guy who's messed with a lot of 4-speeds...
-- the clutch fork attaches to a slot in the bellhousing & nowhere else, see service manual illustration
-- if the clutch pedal does not return to the end of its travel (have to pull it up with foot) then your freeplay is set incorrectly
-- the rubber grommet on the fork rod has a tendency to fall apart over time, especially with heavier clutches, which messes with freeplay. Easy, cheap, & permanent solution is to replace it with a Chevy small block rocker arm ball (I know, sacrilege)
Is adjusting the "freeplay" a pretty straight forward process?
 

PH27L7

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2020
Messages
641
Reaction score
940
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Is adjusting the "freeplay" a pretty straight forward process?
Very easy, takes only a few minutes, you adjust the nut shown. Official procedure is in service manual. The rubber grommet you can replace with the Chevy part is also shown. The diagrams in the service manual are more or less correct, some things like the Z-bar are not true-to-life. All 65-68 linkage setups are pretty much the same although they used various bellhousings and different clutch sizes.
clutch linkage temp.jpg
 

12BNH

New Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2022
Messages
10
Reaction score
3
Location
NH
Very easy, takes only a few minutes, you adjust the nut shown. Official procedure is in service manual. The rubber grommet you can replace with the Chevy part is also shown. The diagrams in the service manual are more or less correct, some things like the Z-bar are not true-to-life. All 65-68 linkage setups are pretty much the same although they used various bellhousings and different clutch sizes.
View attachment 539913
Ok thanks I figured it was that adjusting nut & fork rod, wasn't sure if there was anything else that would effect how the pedal returns. Thanks again for the info it is much appreciated.
 

commando1

Old Man with a Hat
FCBO Gold Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Messages
36,436
Reaction score
36,982
Location
Sebring, Florida
The factory manual describes the best and easily understandable adjustment procedure of all that paraphernalia down there.
Doing that would have saved a lotta verbiage.
 
Top